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BryanKrueger

T-34/76 1943 Factory 183

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This is my build of the T-34/76 from the Ural Tank Factory No. 183. The base kit is the AFV Club clear kit with full interior.

I made a number of improvements to correct some of the kit errors.

Used Panzer Art and Dragon road wheels with correct pattern wheels
Replaced box fuel tanks with ones from Panzer Art
MasterClub white metal tracks replaced the kit rubber band tracks
Replaced kit air exhaust mesh with Alliance Model Works set for the T-34
Replaced all tie downs with copper wire
Replace grab railings with styrene strip and rod
Replaced kit bow MG with Adlers Nest turned brass barrel
Used ice cleats and tie downs from spares from a Dragon kit
Used Eureka tow cable wire
The rest of the kit is OOB with the exception of some weld beads

The model was painted with Tamiya Acrylics and weathered with oil paint, enamels and pigments.

t-34_01.jpg

t-34_02.jpg

t-34_03.jpg

t-34_04.jpg

t-34_05.jpg

t-34_06.jpg

Deck plate isn't sitting properly because it can be removed to view interior. Photos on that later.

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Very nicely done! :Smile-tongue:

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Great looking build! The weathered winter camo is especially convincing.

 

GIL :smiley16:

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I'm going to have to try that hairspray technique one of these days. Everyone that I've seen use it seems to get great results!

 

I actually broke down and bought my first Mig pigments last week, Gun Metal. I've always just done washes and called it a day.

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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Richard - The HS technique can be tricky and does take some experimentation to get scale looking results. There are a lot of variables. I've always had good results with the following:

 

I use Tamiya Paints and have always had good results. I use Tamiya laq. thinner. Others prefer to use water for the Top coat.

 

Apply Base Coat let dry thuroughly.

Apply two light coats of HS sprayed from the can. I use Tresume Ultra Fine. Dry with a hair drier.

Top coat - Color to chip. Apply jst opaque enough to cover the base color. Too thick and chipping will be difficult. This color should be matt. Gloss colors are more difficult as the water beads on the surface and does not soak in.

Let dry 30min or so. Enough so it can be handled.

Have a small dish of water handy and dip an old brush with clipped short bristles into the dish. Touch the brush on a paper towel to wick some of the water out. You don't want to flood the model surface.

Gently start scrubbing the surface. It may take a little time and a little more water but go easy. The water is reactivating the HS layer and flaking off taking the top color with it.

Gradually the paint will start lifting off. You can see the top color get darker as the HS underneath gets reactivated. At this point, back off or you will start shedding large flakes of paint.

You can use an x-acto or a tooth pick to add additional more controlled chipping.

When you are happy with an area, just let it dry and move on to another spot on the model.

 

The white wash effect is a variation on this only using a damp brush on a translucent Top color layer. It takes a bit of practice.

 

Thanks Mark.

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That is remarkably realistic looking! You've achieved an outstanding result. Way to go!

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What if I was going to do this on an area that was going to have decals? Here's my plan. I'm working on the Panda Tunguska kit and it has these panels on each side of the missile rails. I was going to paint these panels Russian armor green, then the hairspray followed by white and/or gray (all Tamiya acrylics). Should I put the decals on before the hairspray, seal them with Future then do the hairspray or should I just chip the area large enough for the decals to fit then put them on?

 

I'm thinking I want it to look like the vehicle was originally green then deployed to an Arctic base where the camo pattern was applied; but they still wanted the vehicle number or insignia to be visible. It makes more sense in my head than it does here probably. :smiley16:

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I try to paint a model like the real thing was painted. On the T-34 I applied the decal markings first, then lightly sealed with Tamiya Satin Clear. Great stuff BTW. It's a newer color in the little jars.

 

Try to replicate how it was really done. Would they have masked the markings or just freehand around them. BlueTak is useful as a quick freehand looking mask if your airbrush can't go small enough.

 

Another tip is to add a tiny little bit of grey to the white. Later you can work in pure white enamels, oil paints - or even very thin acrylics, Vallejo is best, with a small brush to add some variety. OR all three for a nice layered effect which is what I did above.

 

Be sure to practice first. The HS technique can be tricky.

 

I've used the HS technique for winter white a number of times over the years.

 

 

 

steyr_11.jpg

 

pz3_ausfL_03.jpg

 

stuig_06.jpg

 

But it can be used for just about any color combination

mk44_01.jpg

 

kve_02.jpg

Edited by BryanKrueger

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I haven't used the Tamiya clear before. I've always used Future. I've got about 3/4 of a bottle that I bought over 10 years ago. I was looking at it the other day and it looks to be yellowing a little bit.

 

I don't do that many models, about one or two a year. I've been away from it for about a year doing other things, ham radio, competition pistol shooting, etc. But I always find myself coming back to my first love.

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Future is great for some things but I've moved away from it recently as a gloss coat and prefer to use Tamiya or Gunze line of Clears. I always thin with the Tamiya Laq. Thinner or Gunze Mr Color Leveling Thinner if available at my LHS. The Tamiya stuff thins and airbrushes nicely and dries super quick like the rest of the paints.

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Yeah, Tamiya paints are pretty much all I use. I like that they clean up easily and that the acrylics can be thinned with rubbing alcohol.

 

So what do you think about what I mentioned about the issue of the decals and the HS technique? Here's a pic of the Tunguska turret:

 

2S6%20-%2018_zpsxlptzrgf.jpg

 

The flat surface just to the left of the missile racks each has the Russian equivalent of a bumper number on it or a emblem of some kind. My gut says it will be safer to do the paint chipping over the desired area then put the decals on and seal it. The whole piece is like an inch and a half long by an inch or so high.

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Applying the decal, sealing it, then applying the HS technique should be just fine. Never had any problems with decals once they fully cured.

 

I get better results thinning Tamiy with their yellow cap Laq. Thinner or their regular thinner.

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Thanks for the tip! I'm going to give that a whirl once I get to the painting stage, hopefully very soon.

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Wow - just super work here. World class.

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Wow excellent work. I'm impressed. I'm looking forward to trying the hairspray technique on my next build, or maybe even my current one! That tank is perfect. Looks like it's fresh out of 1943!!

 

Rudy

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