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1/192 scale CSS Tallahassee finally finished!

Rusty White

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I finally finished my build up of Flagship Models latest model kit of the 14" long CSS Tallahassee. I bought the master patterns from Mike West at Lone Star Models and did a TON of additions and modifications to bring the kit into the 21st century to enhance the accuracy and quality of the kit. Let me begin by saying this is not a review, because I would be biased.

I needed a photo of the finished model for box art, so construction began as soon as the kit went on sale. This was my (and Flagship's) first rigged vessel to build in resin or plastic, so I ran into a number of new problems to conquer. I designed a very extensive photo etched sheet for the kit resulting in a LOT of small photo etched parts and a ton of rigging to do, so I recommend this kit only to more advanced modellers. What you see here is built straight from the box with the exception being the base and pedestals. I'll have to admit the model turned out way cooler than I expected.








As I said, LOTS of rigging involved, but the photo etched rat lines made a pain in the rump job a lot easier.




The rail stanchions are all photo etched with holes to allow for nylon thread to be passed through and make the realistic looking rails. The ships wheel is photo etched and consists of four parts.




Each cannon is made up of 18 resin and PE parts! That's what I meant by lot of small parts. The massive pivot gun contains almost 30 parts alone! Time consuming to assemble, but very realistic looking. Each mast is made up of 10 parts not including rigging.




Each life boat is accurate in design and consists of 10 parts each.





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Rusty.........Fantastic model. How do you render small rigging blocks in this sort of scale.? I am building a Revell Vasa in 1/150th scale and am about to tackle the Masts and Rigging now the hull is built.

Edited by noelsmith
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This isn't one of my better models. For this "box art" build, I used Elmer's glue dabbed on the nylon thread. They didn't stand out enough after the first application, so I did another when it dried. If you want them larger, just repeat. If I were REALLY wanting realistic looking blocks, I use a punch and die set and make them from plastic sheet. It just depends on how anal you want to get.

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Rusty, Thanks for the feedback and the block technique tip.

I will give it a go. Is the Elmers you refer to a PVA wood adhesive?

I guess it is a particular USA trade brand name like Evo Stik PVA is over here in the UK.

If so I have plenty of the UK equivalent in my workshop to try.

I can probably do quite a bit of block work on various threads before locating them on the model.

The rigging runs will determine how much of this I will be able to manage however, if any at all.

Have seen how LLoyd McCaffery makes up shaped block punches in his book 'Ships In Miniature' by Conway Maritime Press. Not sure that I want to go to all that trouble though. Not aware of any commercially available punches and dies for making miniature blocks. Probably very expensive if they were!

Again Thanks

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Sorry John. I had to cancel Columbia :smiley6:, so all sales need to go through my web site. http://flagshipmodels.com/zencart/


Bummer, I always like grazing at your table. Order sent.



Got it today Rusty, sure is nice - well after I got over the pink resin :smiley4: .

Wish I had room/time to start right away, but I will spend some time researching the ties to NC via the crew.

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  • 3 months later...

Rusty, I have tried your method of using PVA to make smaller blocks followed by a dab of paint on my Vasa.

It is working fine for me, so thanks for the tip

Kind regards

Noel Smith.

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