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1/700 Pe Bends

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Need advice on bending PE in 1/700 scale. I was looking at some of the products from The Small Shop (http://thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3) but not sure which would be best for 1/700 scale. Most of the reviews have been on larger scales, which are not applicable to what I need. I want something to help make those circular ship rail bends and can help with the MK 12 radar sets.

 

I was thinking the Small Shop’s Standard Rolling Set might do the trick, does anyone use this on 1/700 builds or would you recommend another tool?

 

 

 

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You can use various diameters of brass rod and tube to curl PE parts. Find a size that works, and work the part around the tube. Even old paintbrushes work well, if the handle has a consistent diameter.

 

I haven't built in 1/700 for quite a while, but I may get back into it with the Dragon Essex class. Those kits are sweet....

 

Ralph

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The basic technique to roll pe is to "anneal" and use a "pad".

 

Annealing takes the spring out of the metal, which makes it easier to bend or roll the metal and have it stay in the position you want. Put the entire fret onto the stove burner (electric) or hold over a flame (gas or candle). When it discolors, it's done! You do have to be more careful with annealed pe as it will bend easier, but it's also lost some strength. Repetitive bending (90dgs+) will break it easier than before annealing.

 

The pad you need can be a small sponge, or simply a paper towel folded over onto itself several times. Pick your "mandril" (paint brush handle, brass tubing, etc.) slightly smaller than your desired diameter. Put the part onto the pad and start to roll the mandril back and forth GENTLY. DO NOT apply direct pressure at first, as it will bend the part. Gradually add pressure as you roll across the part from one end to the other and it will begin to curl. Keep going, adding pressure until you get the curve you need. It might take a pretty good amount of pressure to get a part (like a machine gun jacket) to curl back completely onto itself. Go slowly and you should have few problems.

 

Hope this helps!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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Gil.

Your ideas are good, with one caveat. In 1/700 scale if you put the entire fret over heat, with the delicacy of 1/700 scale railings et. al, I'm afraid you'll get a melted, molten mess. Most pe for that scale are brass or some brass alloy, and is pretty soft. Anealing may not be needed due to the thinness of the parts.

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I agree that annealing something so small may be an issue. I'm not a 1/700 ship builder but what I have seen is that most of their PE frets are brass and brass bends / rolls / forms pretty easily without heat. (...What Ron said) The other thing that annealing does is it litterally makes the part smaller. Some material burns away, perhaph not molten glob but definite shrinkage.

 

Good luck, Let us know how it turns out. Pics !:)

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So far I have one MK 12 built, not as well as I had hoped. I used a brass rod to bend the PE but had trouble when working the center bend. It snapped in the process so I glued it. I'm working with Tom's PE Battleship set and I'm not sure if I want to chance the heat treatment. The rails are extremely delicate. I’m building the Dragon BB 38 and back dating it to the 1943 refit.

 

I would love to post a picture but not sure how to do it. I get a message to insert a URL, but my pictures are on my hard drive so not sure what to do.

 

 

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So far I have one MK 12 built, not as well as I had hoped. I used a brass rod to bend the PE but had trouble when working the center bend. It snapped in the process so I glued it. I'm working with Tom's PE Battleship set and I'm not sure if I want to chance the heat treatment. The rails are extremely delicate. I'm building the Dragon BB 38 and back dating it to the 1943 refit.

 

I would love to post a picture but not sure how to do it. I get a message to insert a URL, but my pictures are on my hard drive so not sure what to do.

 

Your images need to be uploaded to the web. You can use Photobucket--go to http://photobucket.com and open a free account. Upload your photos. Then, when you try to post here and you are prompted for a URL, enter the URL for the picture(s) on Photobucket.

 

For instance, my F-84F cockpit URL is http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/o.../f84cockpit.jpg .

 

I have two options--use the forum software or some simple HTML. To go the HTML route, paste the image URL and open with the IMG and close with the /IMG comand. I'll use parentheses intead of brackets to demonstrate:

 

(IMG)http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp108/octopusmotor/f84cockpit.jpg(/IMG)

 

Substitute [ for ( and this is what you get:

 

f84cockpit.jpg

 

Now, using the forum software, I click on "Inert Image" and enter the another URL:

 

f84f-s1.jpg

 

and the photo shows in the Preview pane of the post. Your choice, either method works. For sites that don't have an "Insert Image" button, use the HTML method.

 

The Mk12 directors are a bear even in 1/350. I feel your pain.

 

Ralph

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All: Thanks for the suggested mods to my annealing suggestion. My experience is with a/c, and as the saying goes "if it don't fit, hit it with a hammer. No one will notice at 10,000ft!" Sort of sums up my approach to model building too....Cheers!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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Thanks Ralph here's a test run on a test fit BB 38, I know this looks bad right now but hang on it's a work in progress. :smiley23:

DSC00001.jpg

 

DSC00003.jpg

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I'd recommend a "bender" tool. Several suppliers make/sell them. I have one from Small Shops and it works like a champ. It has many different bending surfaces, some at various angles, some on a curve. The biggest deal is to get an old razor...like the one used to scrape decals and stickers from car windshields, or replacement blades for box cutters...anyway, once the pe part is locked into place on the bender you slide the blade under it and start bending to the desired angle. My bender came with such a blade in the box.

I would not be able to use p.e. without such a tool or technique.

To bend larger diameter curves using a pvc pipe, styrene tube, brass rods, pens, pencils, soda straws....anything of the proper diameter....all works well.

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I'd recommend a "bender" tool. Several suppliers make/sell them. I have one from Small Shops and it works like a champ. It has many different bending surfaces, some at various angles, some on a curve. The biggest deal is to get an old razor...like the one used to scrape decals and stickers from car windshields, or replacement blades for box cutters...anyway, once the pe part is locked into place on the bender you slide the blade under it and start bending to the desired angle. My bender came with such a blade in the box.

I would not be able to use p.e. without such a tool or technique.

To bend larger diameter curves using a pvc pipe, styrene tube, brass rods, pens, pencils, soda straws....anything of the proper diameter....all works well.

 

 

Which one of the small shop models work best for 1/700?

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Which one of the small shop models work best for 1/700?

 

Just to add my 2 cents here....The Small Shop sells a PE bending tool they call "the Bug". It's the smallest PE tool in their line and can be held comfortably in one hand. From my memory it sells for something like $45 (US).

Mark

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Just to add my 2 cents here....The Small Shop sells a PE bending tool they call "the Bug". It's the smallest PE tool in their line and can be held comfortably in one hand. From my memory it sells for something like $45 (US).

Mark

 

 

Has anyone used the BUG for 1/700? That was going to be my choice but wanted to make sure it would be the right one for the scale.

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Has anyone used the BUG for 1/700? That was going to be my choice but wanted to make sure it would be the right one for the scale.

 

Annealling is a good practice, but I've never done it on 1/700 PE. One important thing to remember when annelling: Let the part cool down on its own, don't immerse it in cold water.

 

Model Expo is selling the Etchmate for $29.99: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/emails/EMA287.html

 

-J

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