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Vandey 76 question

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Does anybody know the quality of the Hasegawa 1/48 Vandy 76 decals? How much time you have before the glue sets, so you can move them into place? My only concern in building the kit is they're so big I won't have time to align them correctly.

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If you are worried about the size of the decals, cut them into smaller pieces and jigsaw the pieces together on the model. I have done this on several models works well.

Edited by wedfactory

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Richard: please bring those decals to the meeting tomorrow. Seeing just how big the pieces are might help get better advice.

 

My experience with Hasagawa decals is that they're a little on the thick side, but that makes them a bit more "rugged". Warm water seems to get them off of the sheet easier as well as to make them a bit more pliable. Their "work time" seems to be equal to most other kit decals, with adequate time to get them adjusted where you want them.

 

GIL :smiley16:

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The instructions that come with it don't list the colors needed. Does anybody happen to know the exact red, white and blue?

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Insignia Red

Insignia White

Insignia Blue

 

Whether Hasegawa managed to match these to the F

Edited by jcorley

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I've been using Insignia Red, but to me when compared to photos it looks too dark. Is it just the lighting or am I using the wrong color?

post-1405-0-49091700-1439941736_thumb.jpg

post-1405-0-75282500-1439941757_thumb.jpg

post-1405-0-22883300-1439941773_thumb.jpg

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Richard: It often depends on who's insignia red you use as to how close it is to the specs. I prefer to simply match colors by eye. For a bright, gloss red like the pics above I've found the little bottle of Testors gloss red works very well. Model Master gloss white (big or small bottle) will work for the white. For the dark blue, I'd go with Floquil dark blue, if you have it. If not, the little bottle of Testors gloss dark blue with a few drops of gloss black added can be made to match the decal sheet colors. If you thin them all with lacquer thinner and airbrush them, they flow well and dry in 24hrs or less. Hope this helps!

 

GIL

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The decals coming out of the water will be wet, and just make sure that there is some water on the model where you want them to go. This should give you plenty of time to get it where you want. Then I always take a Q-Tip and not rub, but roll it over the decal to get the excess water out.

Anyway, just my 2 ¢.

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I've been using Insignia Red, but to me when compared to photos it looks too dark. Is it just the lighting or am I using the wrong color?

 

 

Your red looks pretty close to the first photo, but the second photo looks totally different. That's what happens with lighting, exposure settings, processing, etc.

Same airplane, two days and two looks.

 

Take your model outside on a nice sunny day, snap a photo and compare.

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I've been using Insignia Red, but to me when compared to photos it looks too dark. Is it just the lighting or am I using the wrong color?

 

 

Your red looks pretty close to the first photo, but the second photo looks totally different. That's what happens with lighting, exposure settings, processing, etc.

It also looks like a difference between gloss on the plane and flat on your model, but that could also just be the lighting & camera.

Same airplane, two days and two looks.

 

Take your model outside on a nice sunny day, snap a photo and compare.

 

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Rich: what did you apply the red over? If you applied it over the blue, it will appear darker than it should. It needs to be applied over white to obtain the brightest result. You also have to be careful to keep it to 1-2 coats, as the more you apply, the darker it can look.

 

GIL :smiley16:

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No I applied it over Tamiya white primer. However I took your advice and put a coat of Tamiya flat red. That made a big difference, thanks for the tip. Here's the result, will have it done by the next meeting.

post-1405-0-89560400-1440548314_thumb.jpg

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:smiley20:

Looks like you nailed it to me! I look forward to seeing that at the meeting! :smiley32:

 

GIL :smiley16:

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