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Attaching a model to a wooden base?


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Hi guys,

 

First of all, I'm very glad that the Forum is back up. Well done Uncle Bob.

 

Now for my question. I'm working on the 1/48th Tamiya F4U-1d for a museum in NC and it's almost finished. I'm going to attach it to the great Nautilus Models real wooden deck sections. Any ideas on how I can attach the model to the painted wooden base and secure it properly? I think that superglue won't hold it. I was thinking about drilling holes in the base and using very thin wire to secure it to the base, but that might look dorked up for a permanent display.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

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Hi guys,

 

First of all, I'm very glad that the Forum is back up. Well done Uncle Bob.

 

Now for my question. I'm working on the 1/48th Tamiya F4U-1d for a museum in NC and it's almost finished. I'm going to attach it to the great Nautilus Models real wooden deck sections. Any ideas on how I can attach the model to the painted wooden base and secure it properly? I think that superglue won't hold it. I was thinking about drilling holes in the base and using very thin wire to secure it to the base, but that might look dorked up for a permanent display.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

I pin mine. I drill a small hole in the base and the wheel. I insert very small brass rod using 5 minute epxoy to attach. Works great.

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"Pinning" or glueing the model to a base works well, but bear in mind that during movement, the lateral and fore and aft forces at work on the model will now be borne entirely by the landing gear and their attachments to the model. These sheer forces can rip an airframe off the landing gear as one of our members discovered when he arrived at a National. This was in spite of the fact that he had carefully packed the model and drove. It is for this reason that when I transport models on bases, I try to position them on towels placed (but not fixed) flat on the bottom of boxes, attaching the bases loosely with tape to the towels. I thus try to permit some movement of the entire base/aircraft as a unit with the inevitable g-forces. I might add that if you are planning to use this technique to transport models by carrying them on an airliner, do not use towels. They are opaque and the TSA will almost certainly and understandably ask you to unpack the box and shake out the towel. It is for this reason that I travel with small,clear boxes and use layers of clear cellophane to pad the bottom. For the same reason-airport security- I have gotten away from thick wooden bases and have started using 1/4" clear plexiglass for bases. I have them made to size and shape at a local window maker. They cost $3.-$5. for a piece big enough to accomodate a 1/72 scale single engine aircraft. They are lighter than wood, and lack the opaque thickness that may arouse the suspicions of Airport Security. Nick Filippone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for all of the ideas.

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Tim, one basic question. Why do you want to attach the model permanently to the base? I usually use bases for my models but except for my P-38, I do not attach any of them to the base. I have never had any problems with people or judges picking the base up and dropping the model.

 

My P-38 is pinned to it's base through the front wheel only. Also, the wheel is not glued to the strut. When I move the model, it is separate from the base and I stick the wheel onto the strut at the contest or meeting etc.

 

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Guest Pyrman
Tim, one basic question. Why do you want to attach the model permanently to the base?

 

I'm working on the 1/48th Tamiya F4U-1d for a museum in NC and it's almost finished. I'm going to attach it to the great Nautilus Models real wooden deck sections. .... I was thinking about drilling holes in the base and using very thin wire to secure it to the base, but that might look dorked up for a permanent display.
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Clare,

 

Yes, I intend to attach the kit permanently to the base, so the museum can move it as required and not have to worry about it falling off.

 

Tim

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