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Revell '56 Ford F-100-Last Minute Touch-01/06


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................and then I got to thinkin'....this is aluminum you know. Why Alclad when all I have to do is polish? I had to go backwards a step here but I think it's going to be worthwhile. I cut another fenderwell out, removed the protective coating with steel wool, sanded it down using the typical 3200grit -12000 grit sanding pads and polished it up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, OK Right on. Perfect solution to ease your worry about how to paint ( devil2_zpscc6b88bf.gif) the finder....uh ...thingies.

One thing though, because they're so shinny they don't show up in the photos all that well -they reflect the surroundings so good they just disappear. 65af0e6a.gifI have the solution just give 'em a shot of clear dull coat - then they be better able to be seen..............OH, wait I missed the point-again- didn' I? getsmileyCA97FZW9.gif

 

 

Anyway to get back to the real world: Seriously cool idea of polishing the metal- gives the model a new dimension. The emblems are "emblematic" of your skills to date getsmileyCAN54UAK.gif

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Thank you Steve and Mark!!!

 

Not much of an update here as I've been getting ready for the Thanksgiving holiday. I tore the linoleum flooring up from my spare bathroom and prepared the floor for tile so that's taken a lot of my focus and time but I did manage to get the fire extinguisher installed, hood emblems on and the fuel tank re-installed after chopping a good 1/4" out of its length for the fire extinguisher to fit. Going to have to re-adhere the passenger side door as it popped out a little at the bottom. No worries. I'll be back on it after the holidays. Speaking of which. Happy Thanksgiving to all of you who celebrate it!!!

If you blow the first image up and look really close you can see the flames. It's a subtle effect that looks great under light

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Well I had to sum up where I'm at with this build. There's hardly any parts left for assembly but my main issue is fit and assembly order. The steps can't go on until the body and bed are mounted up permanently, the windows can't go in until I've got all the work in the cab done, cab can't go on until the inner fender liners are installed, bumpers are the last thing to go on and I haven't decided if I'm going to use that outside rear view mirror yet........ icon_hmm.GIF

All in all here are the parts that I have left to install,

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and my "To Do List" ...

1. Install rear bumper
2. Install front bumper
3. Space front of body up on frame for proper engine to hood clearance
4. Install gas cap
5. Install hood hinges onto hood
6. Install hood onto body
7. Connect engine coolant hoses to radiator
8. Install rear view mirror and dice
9. Install windows into cab
10. Install body onto frame
11. Install bed onto frame ensuring the alignment of cab and bed
12. Install both sidesteps after cab and bed are installed.
13. Fabricate interior/ engine compartment isolators onto body
14. Install windows into cab
15. Install both inner fender wells

As you can see, we are down to the last fiddly bits. I'm already cleaning up the bench for the next build......​

 

Hope everybody that does celebrate it had a great Thanksgiving.

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Happy Thanksgiving back at ya! Mine was pretty good, but we were gone all say so no modeling. I did get some done yesterday though. It must feel great seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this model; especially knowing it ain't a train! Looking forward to seeing this one done!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you there Mark!

 

This may not seem like a big deal to some but it's a major breakthrough for me in the fact that I've got the R/H inner fender well installed. The hard part was just getting the thing to fit. I managed to get the interior/ engine bay isolators at both sides of the firewall installed as well. I had to cut a 3rd fender well out for the L/H side and after stripping the protective coat and polishing up the insides is now in the paint booth with the wheel side of it drying / curing out.

One step closer.......Chewy_zpsdjygjnjt.gif

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Mark for the uplifting word man.

 

The next update I carry out will be the completion photos. I spent this morning installing the hood and hinges, the windshield and the truck bed. I only have about nine items left to install but it's all a tedious thing right now. Tomorrow I'll end up installing the rear window, rear view mirror and the dice. I'll most likely make to installing the cab onto the frame. After that its down to the bumpers, sidesteps, gas cap and the upper radiator hose. I can't believe this thing is finally in the closing steps but will be taking my time here as I want to avoid any last minute mishaps. I should be posting photos within the next few days. Just in time for Christmas....Ho%20Ho%20Ho_zpsczefllhf.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

LOL. Thanks Bob! Yeah I gave it a little but got started back on it full force today. I built the upper radiator hose and clamps and will be working on the lower one in the next few days.

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I did manage to get through with the cab.

Here's the last spoiler shots before the body goes on the frame. Still got about 6 items left to put on but the body is complete!

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In this next shot you'll see I stayed true to form with the original Street Demons logo in the rear window. This decal flirted with coming apart but I managed to squeak her into position and then seal it in by dunking the window in Future.

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Wow Photographer_4.gifThe spoiler shots are impressive.

The shine is killer too; though I believe I sat too close. vac3_zpsefb373b9.gifOh well

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Thanks Steve. lol

 

Got the upper radiator hose done and will be movin' on to the lower. I was using solder but it was only .062" and I couldn't seem to find the .085"-.090" diameter I needed until I went to Auto Zone picking up some windshield washer fluid for my wifes car when I saw some 18 gauge black electrical wire. It was a perfect size at .086" and it was already black. I cut the wire to length and shaped it. Before shaping I robbed one strand of copper wire from the inside of the insulation and used that for the hose clamps. I did the wrapping and shaping on a spare piece of insulated wire then transferred the clamps over and super glued them to the hose on the back side. I shot the whole assy with a coat of clear flat with a drop or two of gray mixed in to give it that true dull rubber hose look. No shiny bold black hoses here. I painted the clamps "aluminum" and set it aside. I'll be shaping the lower hose tomorrow morning.

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That was a brilliant idea and it surely looks the part of a radiator hose! The rest of the cab looks magnificent as well. Man this is looking so incredible! I can't wait to see the finished model!

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Thanks Mark!!

 

.

Well…..after duking it out with this kit for the better half of ten months and often times getting my butt handed to me on a less than silver platter I’ve finally brought this build to a close. I used a total of five kits to bring this thing together . I started with the 1983 release of Revell’s ’56 Ford F-100 Street Demons kit shown here:

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I used the 429 Boss and the hood scoop from Revell’s 1970 Boss 429 Mustang kit with PE and resin aplenty. I’ve seen a lot of folks make their own return springs for the throttle but I chose a light bulb filament from a 1:1 scale 3157 turn signal bulb to replicate this feature. Updated chrome and other cleaned up parts were used from the latest release of this F-100 from Revell, a few updated interior parts from Monogram’s ’55 Ford F-100 and finally a second copy of the Street Demons F-100 that had the chassis already built from the previous owner to aid in mock ups and suspension upgrades. I used PE , resin parts and aluminum parts from numerous vendors. Wheels are from Competition Resins and have a coat of Alclad on ‘em. Front tires are from AMT’s aftermarket tire set and rear tires are OOB. Brake lines and distribution block were all fabricated, the master cylinder was robbed from a kit that I had left over as a kid and the disc brake calipers were from the Monogram 55 F-100. Brake rotors were flat steel washers I found at work and ground down one side so the calipers would hug down to the rotor in a normal fashion. Exhaust system was scratchbuilt from solder with AM aluminum mufflers and the tips were from aluminum stock that I got from HL that were spun up on a drill and polished to a high shine. The interior was a lot of fun on this one as well with whatever PE I could find and a set of fuzzy dice hangin’ from the mirror to top it off. The bench seat is from the Monogram 55 F-100 as I have never been able to stand either seat option in the Revell offering. The paint as well as the clear coat are all Model Master enamel. Flame application was easier due to Anarchy Models flame masks.

I stayed with the original Street Demons idea to give tribute and decided to make the flames a slightly darker red than the body color but keep the “Demons” logo in the rear window and the “Demon 3” license plate up front. All in all it was definitely an educational and fun build for me with all the mods. This was my first all out attempt with achieving a glossy paint job and so far I’m happy with the outcome but know I can do better in future building. Thanks to all of you who commented and peeked in on my WIP to encourage me along the way.

Without further ado I give you guys “Demon 3” of the Revell “Street Demons” ½ dozen:

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This turned out really good Joe! I've enjoyed watching this build come together. Thanks for sharing it with us...

Edited by GaryDavis
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Thanks Mark, Dannie and Gary!

 

Dannie: Man you know it on the relieved part. lol

 

.You know I don't know what's the bigger challenge, a build that you have to follow the guidelines on to replicate or an all out custom build where there are no boundaries and nothing in stone to go by. I had a lot of fun with this one in any case.

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Thank you there Bob! I did a little work to the hood on Monday. .When I installed the hood hinges I managed to drill a hole in the side of the drivers hood hinge. This morning I turned the truck upside down to where the hood was all the way open and inserted the drill bit through the hole in the hinge so I could drill into the firewall. After drilling into the firewall I am now able to insert a small pin through the hinge and into the firewall so the hood can stay open with no visible support.

 

I'll be painting the head of the pin the same red as the body color so it's not so obvious but here it is unpainted to give you guys the picture. It's stuck through the hinge and into the firewall to hold the hood up.


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and the results from further away.....

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  • 2 months later...

I'm fascinated by your build. You have a real working knowledge of automobiles as a mechanic would. I love building car models, but have no real knowledge of actual cars.

I always thought of myself as rather handy at procuring strange materials that happened to fit my need, but I have never thought of using bulb filament for springs. OUTSTANDING!

Edited by 62Parts
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Thanks Bob! I had a great time building this one!! A true trip down memory lane but with a lot more ability this time around. :smiley2:

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