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DML SU-76m


RLFoster

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This is my first post in these armor forums...hope this works.

 

My latest completed model was the Dragon rebox of the old Alan SU-76m. If the numbering of their models is accurate, this would have been the first rebox under the DML Imperial Series label (kit number 9001) and the instruction sheet was dated 1993.

 

With the exception of a wire antenna and replacement decals (the kit's were not usable) the model was built OOTB. However, as with most of my builds, there were one of two experiments or new techniques that I tried out. On this one, I wanted to try out a new technique for replicating welds using Apoxi Sculpt. It worked, but the welds are out of scale and I will need to adjust the technique to make them smaller. I also painted this model using the Black and White painting technique for the first time. Like the weld experiment, the paint job looks okay, but IMO I wasn't willing to take it as far as I could have and will need to adjust the technique next time.

 

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As far as the kit goes, compared to today's offerings, it is probably only about a 2 out of 5. There are plenty of molding errors, fit issues, and only a fair about of detail. Overall, I only give myself a B- for a grade on this build. It was relatively enjoyable, but the results are only so-so by my standards.

 

All comments, suggestions, and critiques are welcome...

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Not bad at all if you ask me. What green did you base it with?

Thanks, Jim.

 

Short answer - Model Master Russian Armor Green enamel lightened for scale.

 

Long answer - No color at all (in a way). The whole idea behind the Black and White painting technique is that you don't use a color to base coat the model at all. The technique throws out the old idea of covering the model with a relatively uniform coat of a color and then spending the next 14 finishing steps trying to create the illusion of modulation, variation, and weathering of that base color. The technique calls for you to base coat the model in black and white (and greys) - I refer to it as pre-shading on steroids - and then use the color as a VERY light, opaque top coat...allowing as much of the underlying shading to show through.

 

I know...TMI.

 

Thanks again.

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