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Yellow Peril?


Chuckboy44
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I've always had trouble doing yellow propellor blade tips. I've done them a lot of different ways and am always dissatisfied. Various kinds of paints, decals, masks etc. and I end up with uneven, messy results. Can someone give me some tips about this?

Thanks,

Chuck Byram

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Paint the prop yellow. Using 3M Painter's tape (low tack) mask off the tips. Using tweezers, apply gentle pressure along the tape edge to be sure that it is sealed so as not to allow underspray or wicking of paint. Shoot your black paint on the prop making sure that you avoid any pooling or buildup along the tape edge.

 

In order to get the yellow tips all the same size I use a mechanical pencil to trace the outline of the prop blade on a sheet of paper. The cheat line between the yellow and black is marked on the outline. Each blade is placed over that outline and tape is applied using that cheat line as a guide.

 

Sometimes (most of the time) I get lazy and don't do the template described above. I just cut a strip of the painter's tape to the proper width and then cut sections out of it to mask off the tips. If the basic strip is of equal width its entire length then it follows that each section will be of uniform width.

 

It seems to works for me and I'm an average modeler. I do, however, get very good results using either of the methods I've described. Good luck!

Edited by Dick Montgomery
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Dick,

 

Thanks very much for your comments and suggestions. I'll take your advice.

 

Another question if I may. Is it just me or is it hard to get yellow paint to flow properly? Whether I'm shooting acrylic or enamel, it always seems to be gloppy and too thick or runny and doesn't cover. I've been using an airbrush for decades and don't seem to have this problem with any other color...

 

Chuck

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Yellow decal sheets can be applied with good results if you carefully trace the propeller tips just right. It takes some practice, but in the end, it looks good too.

 

Mark

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Thanks Mark,

 

I have a sheet of yellow decal and will try out your technique. I'm thinking the accurate tracing of the tips is the key.

 

Chuck

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Dick,

 

Thanks very much for your comments and suggestions. I'll take your advice.

 

Another question if I may. Is it just me or is it hard to get yellow paint to flow properly? Whether I'm shooting acrylic or enamel, it always seems to be gloppy and too thick or runny and doesn't cover. I've been using an airbrush for decades and don't seem to have this problem with any other color...

 

Chuck

I experience the same problem with yellow and white. You might prime the prop with a gray color prior to the yellow coat and don't be shy about applying several coats of yellow. I've used both enamels and acrylics and have no favorite.

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P-6Etailwheelassembly005_zps9820a158.jpg Dick and Chuck:I've seen these problems with yellow before. As an alternative, you can use a gray or even a flat white, which is what I use to do my "Golden Age" biplanes such as the F4B-4, and the recently completed P-6E, Flat white can "grip" better. Best,

 

Mark

Edited by aAzZ09
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Yellow is a tough color, but I've found that FLAT paint works best, and Floquil Reefer Yellow is my "go to" for airbrushing prop tips. Since its been discontinued, you might try any other FLAT yellow, the brighter the better (as opposed to a browner yellow).

 

A white primer coat seems to work best to help the yellow stand out and cover easier. Tamiya rattle can "Fine White Primer" is perfect for this!

 

Last note.....IF you find a very good, opaque, flat yellow that you can brush paint, you can put some of it into a spare bottle cap and then dip the prop tip into it JUST far enough to cover the portion of the tip you want yellow! Since the paint shrinks a bit when it dries, the slightly bulged wet yellow will contract to a flatter surface when dry.

 

Best of luck!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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