Ron Bell Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Petrol There's a soldering technique I've seen that may help. It involves shaving small pieces of solder off and placing them in the gap and then hitting the gap briefly with the flame from a butane lighter. The solder melts almost instantly and flows into the gap and since the flame is used only briefly, the brass is unhurt. I've seen it done at a club meeting but never tried it. It does work, but I suspect it takes some practice. See if you can find anything about it on the interweb/net/thingy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brews Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 And here's mine. As you can see the kit is 10 years old ... Not quite. 2008 is only 6 yrs ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brews Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Finished washing my resin parts, and the upper wing broke while trying to straighten it. I've straightened it, though. The break was nearly all on the starboard side of the centre section (the centre-section cut out on the trailing edge was a stress concentrator). As there is a dihedral, I'll probably break the port wing on this line, too, either accidentally or deliberately, depending on how the re-bending goes. Wishing the bent parts weren't bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRatzenberger Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Who reads the small print :) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I've made some more progress on the superstructure. I've also had to significantly rework the bottom of the forward superstructure to accept the Artist Hobby PE. Soldering is... a work in progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I'm heading out to the Hall to open it up for two days of model building, gaming and other hobbies. I'll be starting my three WWI builds there. Stay tuned for pics after the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghodges Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Had some time today while waiting for the future to dry on my new vac canopies for the T2V, so I started work on the Glencoe 1/48 Albatross DIII. I figured I'd tackle the harder of the 2 builds first...... Opened the baggie and started looking at the parts and dry fitting some things.....Although I never thought I'd be saying this, I found myself wishing I had the old AURORA Albatross DIII kit to build! The Glencoe kit is MUCH worse in molding quality and fuselage engineering! The only advantage with the Glencoe kit is it has a choice of rudders, noses, and wing radiators that allow more options. Got most of the interior built this afternoon. I'll try to post pics by Sunday. GIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRatzenberger Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I have had things fragment my bench time and some difficulty with the kit. I put a few parts on the carriage but then had problems with the 2 axles - not only were they not identical, one arm being about 1/32" longer (or shorter) than the other, but the bolt detail on the carriage was slightly different, getting in the way of the axle-arms. It took a lot of detail filing and fitting to get them both to fit on straight and level in all 3 planes. What you see on the left of the picture is the carriage with the wheels test-fit. My next project is getting the cradle, all the parts on the right, assembled given the photos aren't that clear. The rectangular part is actually a pivot which sits on the carriage, allowing a few degrees of horizontal movement. The two trunnions attach to the rectangular part with the cradle going between the trunnions and the elevating gear fitting somewhere in there. It's not that I really want the cradle to pivot when done, I could just glue it all down on the carriage, but I want to get the parts, specially the elevating gear, right and properly aligned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Picked a color, shot it and am not 100% happy. It's a too green. However, as this is not for my shelf, I'm not going to worry about it. It's close,.....sort of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghodges Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Ron: got any MM Radome Tan on hand? That is a very light beige that can substitute for the browner shades of clear doped linen. From what I've seen of many of the French Spad color illustrations, the overall CDL finishes would vary in hue simply due to the amount of varnish they used; the more varnish, the yellower the tinting, less left them brown looking! GIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Okay, after seeing all the incredible work being done here; it's time for me to post my mediocre efforts. I was able to get a lot done these past couple days at Hobby Day on Friday and Saturday. First off, here's my three projects in the boxes, or bags as it were: Mirage Hobbies 1/400 scale V-105 German Torpedo Boat: Next is my Emhar 1/72 scale Mark IV Male tank: My last entry (so far) is this RPM Mack AC "Bulldog" Truck: Okay, I started with the torpedo boat; building the hull and adding the decking to it. Some sanding and filling will be needed: Next I started the bridge assembly, such as it is: Moving along, I got the truck mostly assembled after a bit of a fight with the chassis, and some other pieces which tweezerpulted off into Oblivion... Then I finally got started on the Emhar Mark IV tank. Incidentally, this is the first Emhar kit I've ever built. I've been breaking ground building kits from companies I've never done before such as Emhar, Attack, ModelCollect etc. Anyway, back to this little model; I started with the driver's and commander's cupola: Next I assembled the main body; or at least the first part of it, then I added the cupola: Then it came time to assemble the six-pound cannon and install them into the sponsons. The instructions said to glue them into place, but I wanted my guns to move. So, the first thing I did was to cut some styrene strip and glue them into place; trapping the gun inside the rotating drum: Now they'll be able to elevate. Making them traverse was a more difficult proposition. I came up with the idea of adding some styrene strips to the sides, making them angle behind the rotating drums and gluing them into place with reinforcing pieces. Here is the start of the first one: Here is the end result: Now both guns traverse as well as elevate. And that is right where I stopped on these. I was working on several other projects along with these; you can see them in my Maddog Manufacturing thread. I'll be posting these pics and all there as well for those who aren't following this Group Build. Meanwhile, thanks all for looking in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Slow progress. Every piece of this stupid ship needs some sort of trimming or thickening, or something to fit the damn photo etch. I'm burnt out. Badly. Work is slow. Note that I've barely scratched the PE for this thing OR filled the gaps on the PE superstructure. Honestly, if I hadn't paid so much for the set, I'd box this out of frustration. There's a point where accuracy overrides enjoyment. This is another example of an utter fail. I've added 1mm of plastic to the forward superstructure and it's still not flush with the deck. Did I mention how much I hate it when PE companies attach railing to replacement superstructure parts? Painting this deck is going to be oh so much fun, if it ever gets that far. Did I mention the turrets don't fit? I had to drive to NOLA to buy some supplies for this. I've never needed CA glue debonder, but have it now. I honestly love the stuff. I still need to trim down some putty along the highest casemate guns and... putty more. My plan, if I don't box this, will be to build the main hull up, paint, then add superstructure, turrets, etc as I get to them. The sheer AMOUNT of PE in this build lends a degree of fragility that, frankly, scares me. Working this way minimizes the chance I lose a part of damage something. All for now. As I've said, I'm severely burnt out on modeling. I don't know how some of you guys routinely build high quality stuff so QUICKLY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghodges Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Here's a pic of the interior work I've gotten done on the Glencoe 1/48 Albatross DIII... It's simple combination of strip plastic, spare pe, and spare parts. Some of the panels will need some further detailing, but that's about it. The rest of the build should be easy, except for getting the nose parts to fit! GIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Wow, you guys are looking good! Chris I feel your pain on all that P/E. I have seen your incredible work and I'm very certain you'll conquer this. Gil, another masterpiece in the making! Way to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennyLoup Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I've been collecting aftermarket items for the Warspite. The turned barrels and Artwox deck is in. I have a 4 day weekend coming up and will likely spend two days on her. The other two have to be devoted to installing baseboards at the new place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 The decals were as bleached as they were going to get, so I decided to give them a try. First a coat of Glosscoat to ensure they would not shatter was shot over them. It makes them thicker and a little "rubbery", but it's better than having them discintegrate into 1000 pieces. All behaved pretty well. It took some doing to get the roundels down over the exaggerated ribbing on the wings, but for the most part they conformed. (The wings look more like corrugated metal actually.) And the tail fin flash curled up into a little ball, so I substituted a British one put on in reverse so the blue is first. The blue and red are a bit too dark, but....oh well. I then overcoated the decaled areas with gloss to blend them in, then a coat of flat over everything for the finish. I then brushed on some Future on the plywood/metal parts to try to get them to look like a different surface texture. Kind of worked, but hard to see in the photos. What's left is the rigging, which is pretty extensive on this tiny a/c. I'll have photos of the finished product when that's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I like it. You'd never guess from the photos that you had any issues with the decals. They look great! I'm looking forward to seeing the rigging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Looks nice, Ron. I'll get back to work on the Tiger in a week or so. I need a break. I also need to knock out two review items that need built (and write up two more.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghodges Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Looks good to me, and kudos on adapting the Brit colors on the tail fin! I'd have never thought of that! GIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisTennant Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Work started on the cockpit assembly. I've decided to prepare the interior bits before airbrushing the interior with a coat of off-white followed by hand-painting the wooden frame. Exhaust drilled out. It's a beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpartlow Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I will be doing Wingnuts AMC deHaviland DH-2. Just love WWI pusher planes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 It's always good to add another person. I'll add you to the list, Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDude Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) I still plan on doing this. Unfortunately between fighting building burnout and trying to finish a previous project that won't end up on the shelf of shame it's getting difficult. Hopefully I can fire the burners and get going again.. Edited January 20, 2014 by TheDude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I know how that is. Right now I'm not fighting building burnout; I'm fighting a flu which has suddenly flared up. My building has come to a screeching halt right now. Not quite the same as what you're experiencing, but similar enough. Hang in there; it'll come back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDude Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) ok I have decided what I am going to build: 1/32 fokker dVII in this scheme, Nothing fancy just an out of the box fun build. Hope to start in the next few days... Edited January 21, 2014 by TheDude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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