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kptucker

Cleaning Resin Parts and Bodies

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I'd like to get an idea about what others are using to clean (removing mold agent) resin parts.

 

The old standby use to be Westley's Bleche Wite but I have read complaints that since Westley's was acquired by Black Magic, the product doesn't work nearly as well as it once did. Even the 1:1 scale car guys are complaining about the product.

 

So I'd like to get some input on the subject.

 

What are you using?

 

What dilution ratio? What is listed on the bottle or something different?

 

How long do you soak the product for?

 

What do you use to clean the resin with after the soaking process?

 

How long are you letting it sit before the parts/bodies are primed and painted?

 

And, anything else you think important...

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Kevin

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So far I have only used Dawn dish soap, luke warm water and a nail brush. Never had any issues yet. Resin doesn't retain water so as soon as the parts are dry, you can paint away.

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In truth, I cannot recall ever washing resin parts as a rule, and I've built many resin kits over the last 30yrs. I've probably washed some parts IF and when I've had a problem, but I've never found many problems, or not enough that I can remember any specifics. If I were to wash them, liquid dish washing soap would be my cleanser of choice.

 

GIL :smiley16:

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I'm of the school Mark is and wash all of my kits - plastic or resin - in luke warm water with Dawn dish soap. I've never had a problem.

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Same as Mark & Mike, only I use a soft toothbrush to "scrub" gently with ....

One brush & pan to wash, one brush & pan to rinse.

I generally let parts sit 5-10 min in the wash, then "scrub" and drop in the rinse.

Once I've washed 'em all (& checked under the suds for strays), I go "scrub" in the rinse and put the parts on paper towels to dry.

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Guest PetrolGator

I've had issue with some resin kits lately. Sometimes, dish soap won't get it all off if certain mold release agents are used (looking at you, Orange Hobby...) I like to soak the resin in a solution with Bleche White tire cleaner, then gently scrub with soap afterwards. I've had no issue with paint or glue adhesion since I started using the product.

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To all,

 

Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences.

 

Chris is the only one using the hi-test stuff to clean his parts as the rest of you are using standard dish-washing liquid.

 

I have recently read that some in the auto community are soaking their models for anywhere from 24 hours to one full month in either Bleche Wite or Castrol Super Clean. I find both excessive but some modelers have had some real issues with resin bodies.

 

Maybe the resin car bodies hold more release agent than what a set of Quickboost air scoops do. Difference in resin, handling, who knows...

 

I'll just have at it and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the help...

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Guest PetrolGator

Kevin,

 

Let me copy/paste something that may help you from another modeling board, from a resin castor: "I doubt it's the mold rubber, but the more likely culprit is the mold release. I occasionally got complaints of paint 'fish eye' on my kits until I switched to a paintable mold release. Even then, the mold release only affects the surface layer and doesn't completely permeate the resin. It the parts aren't too delicate, people have told me that lightly scrubbing them with an old toothbrush and any common household cleanser (like Ajax or Comet) with take off any surface layer of mold release and leave a slight 'tooth' to the surface to which paint can adhere. If you're not the scrubbing type (like me), any color of Tamiya acrylics seems to work well as a base coat, but I mostly use Floquil Railroad primer (if you can fin any)."

 

Note also that Silicone-Be-Gone is also recommended for stubborn mold release agents. My experience with the Bleche White has been good and I only let it soak for about five minutes. I just use an old toothbrush to gently remove any mold release that's being particularly stubborn. Make sure you use a good primer, as well. I tried Mr Resin but it doesn't adhere well to good resin. It's awesome on garage kits, though.

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Chris,

 

I appreciate the additional info.

 

I have read about the standard powder cleaners like Ajax or Comet. Some swear by them, others say they don't do enough.

 

I guess it comes down to the caster. I thought by now things would be a little more streamlined in regard to the products used in producing resin parts and the stability/consistency of the release agents.

 

Thanks.

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You can try Purple Power too. It's a generic all-purpose cleaner/degreaser that I've also used for regular kits. I've never tried it on resin before.

Edited by MikeH

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By the time resin parts I work with reach the painting stage, I have rubbed off (or scraped off or sanded off) all the release agent and substituted fingertip skin oil. I cover that with fine primer and then paint finish colors. Works for me, but maybe not for you. Good luck.

 

Ed

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