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What I'm Working On--Aircraft

Mark Deliduka

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I decided to help fill the boards a bit more by starting this Thread much like Jeff Herne did in Ships. These are all my 1/72 scale aircraft I have currently in progress. Not as many as Armor, but I'm getting there! :smiley20:




This first pic is of my 1/72 scale Airfix "Aircraft of the Aces" series Hawker Hurricane flown by Squadron Leader R.R Stanford Tuck. I didn't quite make it fully accurate paint scheme-wise, but that's partially because I didn't have the color's called for in the instructions. I did my best though.




I just need to apply a semi-gloss coat over this and then maybe I'll try to weather it before I take of the canopy mask.


This next one is another 1/72 scale Airfix kit. This is an ancient model that is so old it was packaged in a blister pack! Since the pack was falling apart, I thought it was time to build it before I lost any parts. This is taken right after I applied the decals; and yes, they are the original decals!






All I have left is to add the propeller, exhaust pipes, aircrew and rear machine gun and mount. Yes, I do still have all those parts too!


Those are my two "quick builds" that I did to clear the cobwebs.


Next I applied the decals to my Italeri 1/72 scale H-34 Choctaw helicopter:




I just have to clear the tissue out, assemble the top rotors, and finish the final little details and this one will be called finished.


Maybe one or two of these will be finished in another week or so. Hopefully.....



I also have a 1/72 scale Vampire jet under construction, but there isn't enough done yet to justify pics. Aside from that, I haven't much else going on, except in Armor. Feel free to check out the Armor Forums for my "What I'm Working On" Thread over there.


Meanwhile, thanks for looking and comments are welcome.

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Looking good Mark! Do you ever feel "stretched" working on so many at the same time? I find I start to feel that way if I get more than 2 going at a time. Do you have a method that keeps you making progress on each of them equally, or do you just work on what you feel like and let the chips fall where they may? In any case, it sure looks like you're having FUN, which means you're ahead of a lot of other model builders! Thanks for posting!


GIL :smiley16:

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Cool! Can we all join in?


I'm working on the following at this time (all 1/72):


Airfix F-84F


Airfix Islander


Matchbox Hunter T.7


PJ Production Hunter, converted to GA.11


Xtrakits Sea Vixen (for review)


Italeri Harrier GR.3 (also for review)


Matchbox Buccaneer (Thanks to our inestimable Webmaster, Bob!)


All are at the painting stage. The Sea Vixen and Hunter GA.11 are both the same scheme (which helps with planning my airbrushing sessions), as are the Harrier, Bucc and Hunter T.7. Sorry, no pics at this time, maybe later.

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Paul, jump right in! Thanks for listing your Works in Progress!


Thanks Keith! As for my pace, I'm waaaaaay under my production level of last year! I'll be lucky to have completed fifty models this year!



Thanks Gil! Yeah, sometimes I do feel a bit stretched. That's when I pull out something simple like the biplane and Hurricane and just 'throw them together'. I do have sort of a system which, while I do build what I like and let the chips fall where they may, does include building as many subassemblies as I can until I get to a level where I need glue to dry or paint to be laid down. Then I'll move on to the next model. I'll bring everything to the decal stage and then decal everything all at once. Then I finish everything off at leisure til it meets my satisfaction. And yes, I do have fun!



Mark, do you paint your models with a standard brush? Or, do you airbrush them? I'm not asking to be ignorant, but on the old forum you asked for constructive criticsm, so......


1. The Hurricane and Biplane especially seem to be brush-painted. If airbrushed, I would suggest successive, light coats.


James, yes, these two are brush painted. I did thin the paint a little to try and get it to lay down better, but was marginally successful. I didn't airbrush these because , well.... I was lazy. These were simply a 'shake the cobwebs, burnout reducer' builds so I didn't utilize all the 'advanced' techniques. These were just models I 'threw together' for fun to push through the modelers block.



2. I never mask my wheels, either. Too tedious. What I do, however, is work "out of the lid". After mixing up the paint in the jar, I either use whats in the lid, or if Vallejo, use a pallet. I dip my brush in the thinner du'jour, then into the paint well. Touching the brush tip to the wheel allows for oncotic pressure to "pull" the thinned paint from the brush to the plastic wheel (path of least resistance). This easily makes a demarcation around the thinnest of wheel hubs. After that, it's easy to go back and paint the rest of the tire by hand.


I agree, I never mask my wheels either. The technique you described is what i do as well. It didn't work too well with the biplane, so I'm going to try the same thing in reverse using the silver on the hubs. Although, the paint callout does show them painted with alternate red/yellow stripes, but I'm not sure I want to mess around with that.


3. You're gonna have silvering issues with the Choctaw. I could be wrong, but it doesn't appear to me that you gloss-coated the model with anything first. Do you use decal setting solutions? Either Micro-Set or Mr. Mark Softer would go along way, here, for you. I always airbrush on several thin coats of Future to get a gloss coat before decaling. Without getting too much into the Physics of refractory light waves, the air trapped in the micropourousness of a dull coat of paint allows enough light to relflect upon the back of decal film to ruin the effect of it being painted on.


You're right. Even though I did clearcoat with Future, the base paint coat is the culprit. When I airbrushed it on, it went on very 'powdery' for want of better word. Therefore the coat is a bit more rough than it should be. I didn't want to pile on too much Future because I didn't want runs or anything else, so I just went ahead and decaled it. I've already pinpricked them and applied a Micr-Sol solution to try to reduce the silvering as much as possible.


And like you, I also airbrush Future over all my models before decaling. That's the best clearcoat ever! Do you mix Tamiya Flat Base in with your Future for flat and semi-gloss coats? I do. All my armor is finished with a Future/Flat Base mixture of 60/40 Future to Flat Base ratio.


That reminds me; I gotta go pick up some more Future....


As for using decal solutions, I'll use -Set for difficult ones that refuse to lay down right. I'll use -Sol for ones that need to be laid down over surface detail, or ones that silver despite my efforts to eliminate silvering. I'll use Solvaset (the 'nuclear option') for those difficult ones that need to be brought down over deep detail or compound curves or both; or whenever the other two solutions don't work.



4. You my want to consider photographing your models without a flash. Set the model on a plain background (white or blue posterboard) and focus a couple of desk lamps on the subject. I use 100w GE "Natural Light" lightbulbs to illuminate my photo subjects. Play around with a 0 or +1 exposure and the Macro settings on your camera. I think you'll really like the results.


Thanks for the advice on the photography. I have two lamps on my desk that give these the look of flash. I always turn it off because these two lights give plenty. Then there's my window with sunlight coming through too! Once I get my hobby room a bit more cleared of stash, I'll set up a better photo setup. I've copied your sggestions for use when that happens in the future. Thanks!




Just trying to help, I hope you don't take these suggestions the wrong way. BTW, what exactly is the "League of Extraordinary Modelers"?






Not at all! I thank you very much for the suggestions and tips and I do very much appreciate your posting them. Please, if any of my answers imply otherwise, don't read them that way because I do want to see suggestions like these; particularly when a) I ask for them, and B) they keep me motivated to try and improve. Every now and then, however, I'll do a 'quickie' which is meant to be fun and will dispense with the 'advanced' techniques just to clear the modeler's block. Essentially I'll build it like I did as a kid. The Hurricane and the Demon are two models that I did just that on, which is why they are hand brushed.


Furthermore, asking questions like this help you to know where I am skill- and technique-wise so that you know more what questions and suggestions to offer. I appreciate that.


As for your final question, the League of Extraordinary Modelers is an invitation only Forums that started up about four/five years ago. Our 'mascot' so to speak is a ring tailed Lemur, and we call ourselves LEMurs. We are a close-knit group of guys that have loads of fun, and specific rules for 'LEMur meets'. As for the 'extraordinary' part, that doesn't just apply to the model building aspects of each LEMur, it also describes us personally as persons as well, if that makes any sense to you.



There are several other members of IPMS on these boards that are LEMurs as well.


If you'd like to know more, our site is:




I've been a LEMur now for a good three years and I've thoroughly enjoyed the whole time!


Thanks again to everyone for all the great comments!

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The topic is "What I'm Working On". So, here's what I'm working on. The closest to being done is an Accurate Miniature SBD for a group build. I just need to add the decals and do some weathering. I'm also building a 1970 Dodge Challenger. Just working on the engine detail now. Then there is a B-17 way in the back that's not been touched in a year, so I won't count in as "in progress". It's in a state of suspended animation.

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Sweet! Thanks for posting your Works in Progress. As you said, it's "What you're working on" and the whole purpose was to get some discussion going. Glad to see you added your list. Thanks man! Can't wait to see your progress! :smiley20:

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I've got 3 on the bench at the moment.


First is the1/48 Monogram/Falcon vac conversion of the TA-4J Skyhawk. Why? Because Uncle Jules (Classic Airframes) was releasing HIS Ta-4's and I wanted to avoid feeling guilty (and I wanted another A-4 for my VB display tables!). It's ready to decal (Blue ANgels #7), so it will be in VB!


Second is the vacuform 1/48 F3D Skynight. Why? Because the Czech Model kit is no easier (just finished one) AND I had the reference material out....BUT, mine will have the wings folded/flaps down; and will be in GSB finish from the late '40s! I'm gonna try to get it done in time for VB.


Third: a not quite OOTB 1/48 Tamiya P-51D Mustang just to alleviate the masochism on the rest of the work bench! It'll be in "American Beauty" NMF markings if I don't screw up the kit surfaces....It'll get done when it gets done....Cheer!


GIL :smiley16:

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I'm finishing up on an F-4 G in 1/48 in markings of the last flagship of the 90th at Clark AB in the early 90's. It's the last scheme used on AF F-4's with a few modifications. If all goes well you'll see it in 15 days at VB and next month in the gallery. I'm finally getting the Hasegawa F-4 construction down to eliminate the seams on the intake and spine.

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I've got several on the bench. Most are awaiting time in the paint shop.


Trumpeter P-40B 72nd

Hasegawa MXY-7 72nd

Tamiya Jeep 35th (Don't ask)

Condor MiG-25 72nd


and a few more that have been started and are on hold for one reason or another.

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Actually, "oncotic pressure" is the term to describe the pressure which brings about the diffusion between different concentrations of colloid or between a solute (colloid) and the fluid in which it is dissolved- Dorland's Illustrated Medical Dictionary. A better term to describe the force that governs the flow of paint around the wheel rim would be "capillary attraction" - the force that attracts the particles of a fluid into and along the caliber of a tube- Dorland's.

I have also used this technique with success, but unless there is a fairly distinct ridge of plastic molded between the wheel and the tyre, almost always the demarcation line will be wobbly and sloppy looking. One of my fellow club members taught me the following trick for dealing with this uneven line. It is especially useful on WWI and between the wars aircraft where frequently, especially in small scales, there is no such sharp barrier to the flow of paint. After painting the tyre and wheel as carefully as possible, he takes an automatic pencil, sands the tip to a beveled edge,and runs the tip around the interface of wheel and tyre. This creates a sharp neat line that blends well with the tyre colour. Nick Filippone

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Mostly I've been in a rut for months, but this week I've been working on a Devil Scale Eduard Hellcat II for review.


I've also got a couple things on the bench I should finish up. A Fujimi Spitfire XIV, a Hobby Boss Sabre 5, a Hasegawa Churchill...but I can't really talk about that here, can I.







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