AZKevin Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) Hello Everyone, I'm looking for basic information here. I have been taking photos of my models and I'm reasonably happy with the results (although there's always room for improvement). My main problem is getting clear photos of details (i.e. cockpits, landing gear wells, opened gun barrels, etc). I do not have a DSLR type camera, only a Samsung Digimax L60 compact digital camera at the moment. Has anyone tried making their own macro lens for a compact camera?? I've seen some info online about using the lens (or 2) from magnifying glasses. If so any ideas, help, etc would be greatly appreciated. At some point I would like to get a DSLR type camera - but as a 'starving college student' that's a ways down the road. Anyway thanks for any input. Best wishes, Kevin Edited March 21, 2013 by AZKevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcorley Posted March 22, 2013 Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) The easiest way, if your camera will allow manual mode, is to close the f-stop all the way down (higher number = smaller opening), this will greatly increase your field of depth to allow more closer & farther details to come into focus. As for macro lenses, many of the smaller cameras are threaded for attachment of filters. there should be a marking with a Phi followed by a size, this will tell you the threading in mm. Φ 37 = 37mm threading (sure hope the html code for Phi comes thru) Well, that didn't work. A P{hi is a small zero with a slash thru it Edited March 22, 2013 by jcorley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZKevin Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 jcorley, Thanks for the info I'll delve into my camera settings and see what I can do. As for the html code for phi not coming thru - no worries, I have 4 years of Classical Greek under my belt in grad school so Greek is not 'Greek' to me :) Best wishes, Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGronovius Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 This month's AMPS Boresight issue has a very useful article on photographing model subjects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisTennant Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Kevin,Another thing to try is your trusty cell phone. I use mine to shoot pics at contests, etc. when I don't want to lug around my larger DSLR camera. Most cell phone cameras will allow you to focus close enough to produce fairly decent macro shots. Just remember to hold the camera steady or, better yet, invest in a mini tripod from photojojo.com (they have several models made especially for holding cell phones.)Here's an example of what a cell phone camera can do: So, give your cell phone a try. You never know, your phone might be able to produce decent photos, saving you some money and, having a son in college studying ancient greek also, I know how important that can be. Good luck, Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJ Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 (edited) I was looking at your camera on line and it looks like you can go manual. To do what I am going to suggest you will need two things, a tripod and a remote shutter release. Set your camera up and go to manual mode. Set the exposure time to the maximum that it will do. You many need to turn the flash off. Some cameras set the shutter to 1/60 of a second in flash mode. Then back off about 3 feet from your model. You have a zoom lens. Use that to zoom in on the area you want to highlight and shoot the detail. Here is the science behind what I am suggesting. A longer exposure means two things, sharper detail and greater depth of field. Sharper detail is self evident. Depth of field is the distance range front to back that is in sharp focus. A longer exposure makes this area larger from front to back so more of the model is in focus. By using the telephoto mode on your camera you do two things. Most macro modes will cause distortion around the edges because of the closeness of the subject. Have you ever seen a photo of some ones face with the nose filling almost the entire photo. That is what happens when you get too close to a subject. Also by using the telephoto mode you are less likely to have a problem with shadows from the camera and photographer. With a long exposure, you get a blurry image if the camera moves at all, so by mounting it on a tripod you eliminate the shakes. Using a remote release also reduces any shaking. If you cannot get a remote release, use the countdown timer, that way you are not touching the camera at the time the photo is taken. Good Luck Edited March 24, 2013 by PeteJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbeach84 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Yes, what Dennis says. Tripod is very important! Low or semi-low light levels and long exposure make shake a real problem when hand-holding. I tried my "sniper" skills on pix taking and it just doesn't work - the camera shutter is 'open' for too long. Not quite like pulling the trigger... R/ Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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