Guest PetrolGator Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yeah, but then I'd have to completely rebuild her amidships and after superstructure. I don't have the PE for the catapult and I'm not even sure they make it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 OK. The major sub sections of the fore and aft superstructure have been assembled. Masts, AA, and smaller platforms are, again, dry fitted. I've hit the superstructure with Future to both gloss it for further weathering and protect it from the LIGHT wash I'll give it tomorrow. The superstructure will then be lightly weathered and set aside. I'm going to build and complete the water base with the hull before I crowd it out with the rest of the ship... don't want any PE damaged. Note again that the ship will be displayed in a strong North Sea fight. The heavy weathering on the hull is the result. I do hope it isn't too much. Please note the "chipping" I've added to the hull. I've tried to simulate light rusting with some brown/red washes but don't want to overpower the scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 More weathering, mainly superstructure I'm doing this from my phone... Hope it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill50 Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Chris, that is looking reraally good. What did you use to paint the deck? Did you just pick out individual planks after a general painting? BTW...When are the NOLA and Baton Rouge contests. My son lives in NOLA and I haven't been down to see him in awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yeah. The deck's an Artwox wood deck. I'm still practicing the VERY hard art of making a painted wood deck look good. Hopefully, I'll implement what I've learned on a Scharnhorst build that's coming up. NOLA - 03/23 @ St. Jerome K.C. Hall 3310 Florida Ave in Kenner, LA Baton Rouge - April 13th @ The LSU Mini Barn? I have no idea where that is, but I do my best to avoid anything LSU as often as possible. There's also a show in May in Pensacola I'll be going to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill50 Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Thanks for the info. Long trip from Chicago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Work has stalled until I manage a convincing enough water base. The KGV will be shown plowing through some heavier seas and that's something I haven't done before. The first iteration was... not successful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Well, the water itself is about done. I have some work to do once I set the hull in the base. This is all a test fit, including superstructure. I'm going to trim the "water", add a border, sand, then stain the base, once I've gotten a little farther with the build itself. I still have to add a lot of details, railing, a little weathering, and smoke. Well, I'm going to try to add smoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Well, I've made a little progress. I haven't had much time to work on this between my training sessions and work. The water was made using an experimental method combining a few techniques I've seen on modelwarships. I'm 50/50 on it. So far, I've fit all of the ship's rafts and started cleaning up the waterline a bit. I've placed Niko Models' 1/700 four barrel Pom poms to cover up those huge holes in the deck. Sadly, these were ordered prior to doing a lot of research and I'm now waiting on some WEM eight barrel photo etch. To do: Set remaining AA guns Railing Seal the ends of the "waves" with clay and elmers, then paint. Sand, stain, and seal the display base Rigging Signal flags and naval ensign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill50 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Looking good Chris. So what was the water made up of? I've been mulling over putting a ship in water instead of on a stand for a change. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Uuum... I sort of Frankensteined it? I'll do my best to narrate: 1) Took poster paper, inverted, and used the cylinder part of tooth picks to disturb the surface in larger, wave-like patterns. 2) Glued the thing down to the unstained base 3) Roughed surface with mid grit sandpaper 4) Masked off the area of interest for acrylic gel 5) Made cut in the center of the poster paper for the ship. 6) Used slightly watered acrylic gel to give texture to the water. (This will be replaced with a different texturizer in the future.) 7) Built basic wave forms and built them up until I was satisfied. 8) Let dry 24 hours 9) Painted the whole of the water a dark blue, as the KGV was heading to the Pacific around the time she looked like this, minus the degaussing cable. 10) Used a blend of blue shades, washed out, to illustrate the different degrees of aeration in the water. Blended in white on wave caps and along the future hull line. Allowed to dry. 11) Air brushed a thin layer of Future. Allowed to dry 30 mins. Sprayed on thicker coatings until water appeared sufficiently "wet". 12) Attached ship. Used Elmer's to fill in the gaps along with some putty. 13) Painted around hull with white and lighter glue, to indicate the disturbed water. 14) Dry brushed duller white on the tops of the waves to help indicate spray. I... think that's it. I'll be making changes next time I make a water base. I wasn't entirely happy with the way the "calmer" water came out. Hope this helps, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill50 Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Thanks for the description. Something to try in the future, maybe with a few tweaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) Everyone's got their own way, but if I could suggest some possible variants to your's. Sand, stain and polyurethane or whatever the base before you start the water. There's less chance of damaging the water and certainly less masking. Also, if you use water based "water" simulators, it can cause the base to warp if it's not sealed. That I learned from experience. Second, try painting the water on the base then put the gel on. The gel dries clear and you get a sort of depth of field effect. And, by painting before you apply the gel, the gel is not "dulled" by subsequent paint and takes less Future to look "wet". Just ideas for what they're worth. Edited March 16, 2013 by Ron Bell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Ron, I use clear resin in calm seas but have not been able to locate a good clear acrylic gel. Recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) Chris, I use Liquitex Gloss Gel Medium. It's actually meant to be mixed with acrylic paints to give them "body", transparency and high gloss. It comes in tubes or tubs and is reasonably priced. It's white out of the container but dries clear in a day or so, depending on humidity (in NOLA probably longer.) Water based, easy clean up, but you have to seal wood or it may warp. No fumes either. However, you can only put on about an eighth of an inch thickness at a time or it may dry cloudy. Careful when you buy it as LIquitex also makes a Matt Gel Medium and you don't want that. You can find it in most craft stores like Michaels, Jo-Ann fabrics, etc, or any art supply house where they have the acrylic paints. It does shrink some when drying, but does not crack unless you've got it on too thick. Here's an example: Liquitex also makes a product called Acrylic Modeling Paste. It is for artist to add texture to a canvas. It's white and dries white, but it is thicker and is good for a first base coat to lay in some waves. Paint it then add the Gel Medium over it. Edited March 17, 2013 by Ron Bell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Ron, It's funny you should mention the Modeling Paste. I just bought a tube. I'll hit up Hobby Lobby tomorrow and see if I can find the gel. I'm a LOT more fond of the method you propose as it tends to simulate water with a larger accuracy. Guys, I really appreciate the feedback. I'm still in my first year with this hobby, and have a lot to learn. The sloppiness of my builds sort of attests to that. Thanks for all the tips, as always. To the build. I've taken up the habit of taking pictures with my iPhone and viewing them on my computer. It is amazing how much a picture can show, regarding errors. Consequently, railing is rebent, or replaced. Here are a few. I've attached all of her main and larger secondaries. I'm going to gravity fit the kit pom poms to fill the holes in the ship. I THINK I've secured some PE and resin copes that will quickly replace them. I still want to have the build done, minus those for the next show. All the railing has been fitted, minus that around the main full. That'll be one of the last things I do. Remaining: Smaller ragefinder PE Two 20 mms and her searchlights Railing along the hull Rigging Boat deck Details on cranes Some crew Needless to say, I'm close. I SHOULD have the boats and boat deck/cranes done tomorrow. I'll then fit her railings, rig her up, and touch up any photo etch that's lost it's paint. VIOLA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 It is amazing how you'll catch every slight slip up in a photo that you miss on the actual model, even though you have been working with it for weeks. You're build is illustrating how intricate ship modeling is. So many parts all interacting with each other and needing paint, etc. I'm a novice at it myself and my efforts reflect that, but the finished products can be SO impressive. Just not mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) Thanks, Ron. I've been browsing through some weathering jobs on ModelWarships and have learned a lot. Take the aft 14 inch turret. I dusted the top with a little lighter shade of grey and even tried to make it appear like the crew had done some repainting in the field. The barrels, also, had this odd wavy pattern of top paint on them. Simulating that went OK. The light AA directors are going to be a total pain in my ass, though. Take the 4.7 in directors' photo etch and multiply the number of positions by like four. I'll spend an afternoon making sure they look OK. Here's some bow shots from the iPhone. Sorry for the quality. I used the while I was half asleep.* *Edited for redundancy. Edited March 18, 2013 by PetrolGator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Well, I didn't have a whole lot of time today to work on this ship between work and the gym. Still, her launches are almost done. I need to detail the two admiral's launch-style ships and finish painting two others that were covered by canvas. I'll end up using some tissue on top of those to look a bit more realistic. There's a little clean up still needed (see the seat on one of the smaller boats) due to handling, but I'll do that once it's secured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 YES. I finally secured the WEM PE bits that I wanted for this kit. I made a deal with a gentleman from ModelWarships who was looking to shed all his 1/700 scale stuff. It's pretty awesome that I'm getting the full WEM PE set, but I don't know if I feel like tearing into the plastic to replace some of the current build's clunky plastic with the excellent WEM equivalent. I may take the pom poms I need and use the rest on an Anson, Howe, or Price of Wales. Plus side - Accurate, in scale ship's cranes and anti-aircraft Down side - She won't be going to the NOLA show. I will wait for Baton Rouge. Also - getting some brass barrels that make it likely I'll invest in and build a Dido-class cruiser... I absolutely love them. Having the PE will be plenty of incentive to buy one of WEM's fine resin kits. Dry fitted the boats this AM before running off to work. The two powered launches on the sides are NO where near fully painted. I still need to paint the funnels and simulate the port holes and windows on the cabin and pilot house. I'm going to also try to use some EZ line to build tie down straps for the boats. I haven't seen many pictures of the KGV's boat deck, but it would add logical detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Mild work done. Masts attached. I had to break part of the foremast and add some washers to straighten it. I'm currently sanding the wood base and will re-stain tomorrow if the need arises. Note that the pom poms are place holders only. I'm waiting on my PE versions. To do: - Rigging - Hull railing - Dull coat ship - Remaining life boats, tie downs, etc. - Pom poms - Last minute paint touch ups - Cranes: Not too happy with the weathering. I'm going to respray and dust with a lighter grey. Pictures: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 The Pom Poms have arrived! If this does not illustrate that something is wrong with me, I don't know what can. Once I've painted/installed these, I can finish off the base, railings and other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Two left. Only two left. Here's some pictures of the brass on board, obviously not glued. I'll airbrush them then touch them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PetrolGator Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Back to work. I want to have this ready for Baton Rouge, if I can. I've installed the WEM Pom Poms but still need to spend some time fixing any.... unintended bending... from painting and messing with them. Additionally, I've replaced MOST of the crane parts with the superior WEM parts. Cables on these and the forward booms have been made with stretched sprue, as will most/all of the rigging once I get to it. I have also installed some 1/700 Eduard figures. I didn't want to put too many on deck as she's being shown in the middle of a broadside. To do: - Detail painting - Railing - Finish base - Rigging So. Close. I frigging love this view. There is still some bending to be done on the pom poms, but that'll be done tomorrow. 40 mm and 20 mm AA guns are surplus DML bits. Comments are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumterIII Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Man you kicked it again, the hull detail and clean build is another winner for sure! Congrats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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