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MikeGilsbach

Ca Glue - How Bad Is It If You Eat It?

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:smiley17: Just kidding. I didn't eat CA glue. But I do have a question about it, having never used it before.

 

I am using the ZAP gap-filling CA glue. It comes with a nice little "precision applicator" tip. The problem is that the cap doesn't fit on the end of said applicator. So, when I was done I had to remove the applicator to get the cap on and close it up. But that spilled the glue that was in the applicator. All rather awkward.

 

Am I missing something here? Any trick to this?

 

Thanks,

Mike

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Hi Mike:

 

I have never had mush luck with the "appliator things". I doa couple things. for larger doses, I put some glue on a paint jar lid and apply with a toothpick. Forsmaller and finer, i used a no. 11 blade- dull works fine and apply a thin line. For single dots, I use a small piece of wire. Any of them get gunked up, i have cheap replacements

Dave

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A favorite CA applicator tool was provided to me by a dentist in our club. He used this tool for minute applications of glues in his practice. It is a hand tool that tapers to wire thin at the end. the fine end is curved almost 90 degrees and has a tiny ball on the very tip. This ball can pick up a tiny drop of CA that is impossible with a toothpick or ordinary cut wire. Because it is made from tool steel, it is easy to remove any built up, dried CA later. Talk to your favorite dentist! :smiley27:

 

Ed

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Here's another applicator that you can make--take a standard sewing needle, break it in half. Use the pointy end, chucked into a pin vice, as a scribing tool. Now, take the end with the eye, and break the eye in half. Shove the point end into the eraser end of a pencil with the broken eye sticking out--the forked end will hold a small drop of super glue. Wear safety glasses when breaking the needle, please....

 

The cheap, cheap, cheap alternative is to use a length of copper or brass wire--straight wire will hold a minute amount of glue, if you bend the wire slightly the wire will hold a little more glue. When the wire end gets fouled with too much glue, snip the end off and discard.

 

I find that toothpicks will absorb too much glue to be really useful.

 

Ralph

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Here's a good use for old spru. Just stretch a bunch of it out to various thicknesses over a candle. Trim it back to whatever thickness you need for larger or smaller amounts of CA. When the end gets dried glue on it, cut it off. When the end gets too thick, stretch some more.

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Very nice. So, the trick is not to use the applicator at all. Makes sense. :smiley14:

 

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I will try a couple of these out and see what works best for me.

 

-Mike

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put some glue on a paint jar lid and apply with....

 

I agree with the "apply with" options previously mentioned although I like a wooden toothpic for the job.

 

I used to use a paint lid as a pallet of sorts but after a while the old glue absorbed the new glue right away or clean paint lids became hard to come by.

An easy solution for an always clean pallet for CA glue, epoxy mixing, small amounts of wash etc is a short section of 1†wide blue painters tape.

Stick it to your work table, glue, mix, paint, etc ... & toss when done. The down side is I now have several pieces of used tape super glued to the inside of my work area trash can.:smiley5:

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Ralph:

 

Your're right about the toothpicks except that I get them a coat of thin CA and let it cure. once cured- perfect and cheap

 

Dave

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I'd like to suggest your save your butter tub lids. That's what I use to put my superglue onto and then "dip" out of. When the glue is dry you can flex the top and about 95% will crack off of the surface and you can use the lid some more. When it gets too much left on it that won't come off, use another butter tub lid.

 

A larger surface like the lid also allows you the room to mix your thin superglue with powder (talcum or baby; your choice). That will make a good filler that doesn't dry rock hard like regular superglue. It also sands easier to a feather edge and is easier to rescribe over!

 

Last of all, I advise you to stop spending money on expensive hobby shop superglues. They're ALL cyanocrylates. I get the most milage from the cheap "4 tubes for a buck" superglues at Walmart. You use them up before they can go bad, and you really only need to buy the regular type as you can make the thicker type by adding powder. I only use "gel" superglue for attaching landing gear and such. Anyway, that's my 2 drachmas! Cheers!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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I started reading this & thought to myself "I can add to this", but as I got to the bottom of the postings, I see that ALL of the little tips I use have already been covered!

Great tips guys!

Tim

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No tubs or lids ... I have wax paper taped to my bench. I just put a glob on there then shovel it out with whatever tool I think is right, a toothpick being my favorite. When done, I either wipe it up or stick my elbow in it, not being a quick learner ...

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I've used the needle in the pencil eraser for thin CA...and gel CA on the tape, with a toothpick applicator. Both seem to work well for me...

 

 

 

When done, I either wipe it up or stick my elbow in it, not being a quick learner ...

:lol: :lol: :lol: ...oh, that was a good laugh...Thanks, John! I needed that!

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That sounds better than trying to blow the superglue back down into the tube! (Don't ask..... :smiley2: )

 

SB :smiley16:

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I use good ol' beer bottle caps for holding puddles of CA glue (or for mixing small batches of paint/washes). The best part of this method is that the supply of the expendable bottle caps requires periodic replenishment. A sort of closed-loop system, if you will.

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If you are using a wire or needle to apply CA the easiest way to clean it is with a match or lighter and burn it off the CA.

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