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Found 5 results

  1. Here's the latest on my client's Kinetic E2C 2000. The cockpit is very nicely detailed. Too bad that most of it will barely be seen when the model's finished. Still, this shot shows the central console and seats installed in the basic tub. Only thing really lacking is seatbelts, but we'll take care of that in a bit. All the raised detail is done using an old technique I'm rather fond of. After painting all the panels flat black, a Prismacolor White art pencil is used to lightly rub over the raised detail. Then a shot of Testors Dullcote seals the white and also pops it out. Doesn't compare to color photoetch, but still quite effective. Control yokes and instrument have been added. So have seatbelts and buckles. Another view of the finished cockpit. Seatbelts and shoulder straps are nothing more than painted blue masking tape. Buckles are .15" Evergreen styrene strips cut to size and painted with MM Aluminum Metalizer. While I'll be installing the cockpit in the starboard fuselage half, I'm showing the port half here for clarity. The cockpit tub needs to be installed so that the front edge butts AGAINST the backward L, not on it. The side of the tub will fit on TOP of the long raised rib. You'll know when you're positioned correctly when the nose gear well matches the cutout in the bottom of the fuselage. The next photo will show the cockpit in place and everything should become clear. When properly installed, this is how the cockpit should be positioned. And yes, I know it goes against the grain but the bulkhead does not fit at the back edge of the cockpit opening. Do that and the gear well won't line up with its fuselage opening.
  2. Hi all. More progress on the Hawkeye front. The door on the bottom of each nacelle is installed in the open position. Outer wing assembly is straightforward, but the configuration is such that clamping all around with wooden spring clothespins is the best way to go. This is due to positionable flaps and ailerons. There are inserts with proper detail for the wing fold area. Which ones you use depends on whether you want the wings folded or not. My client specified extended, so those inserts include healthy spars that eliminates any possibility of sagging. This shot shows the wing upside down. [ And so does this one. Just a different angle. Here is how it looks when viewed from the top. In order to get everything tight, clothespins are used for the final fit around the insert. In order to mount part H1 on top of the radome disc, it's necessary to drill a hole in the center of the disc. Strangely, Kinetic does not have a depression or any other method of locating the centerpoint, so you're gonna have to do it with a pin vise and ye olde eyeball computer. When joining the upper and lower radome halves, the only practical clamping method is a slew of wood clothespins. If you don't have enough, go buy some. Incidentally, don't forget to install the shaft that allows the dome to rotate (by hand). If you plan to fold the wings, the doors under the wings that cover the connection need to be posed open. That configuration is seen on the left. You do want to clean up any rough edges where the part might have broken off the sprue. On the right is a door modified to fit closed. A sanding stick does the job in short order. Properly trimmed, the doors can be made to fit perfectly.
  3. Hi all, This is another commission build that follows the C-46. Not near as difficult as the C-46, but more involved and tedious due to the greater number of parts, with many of them...primarily antennas...being very small and delicate.You also have options for extended or folded wings, flap position, etc. Hope you enjoy this series as many of you have the ongoing C-46 series. The box is large, sturdy, is crammed full of parts and presents a superb illustration to attract you. Interestingly, nowhere on the boxtop, instructions or decal sheet...including the aftermarket decal sheet...is the manufacturer's name mentioned. Obviously, this is due to royalty demands of various manufacturers. This is the kit-provided decal sheet. And the aftermarket sheet from Vagabond Decals that my client provided. Construction started with the tail components. You'll have to be very careful not to hit the static discharge wires. Center section of the the wing comes next. Here you're looking at the bottom of the center section. Old fashioned wood, spring style clothespins make excellent clamps. Don't forget that you can use them in tight areas if you backcut the jaws. The air intake duct is a somewhat tricky fit. Spend some time dry fitting the assembled duct and gear well insert before you ever reach for the glue/solvent. Don't overlook part 28 that mounts in the rear of each duct. It shows the front of the turbine fan but is virtually invisible after the nacelle is assembled, However, it does block light. A slightly different view showing the duct and gear well insert in place. Note that the duct has a front and back, though it's hard to tell, so be sure to determine that before installing part 28.
  4. Looking for a copy of instruction sheets for Hobby Boss A-10 in 1/48 scale or web site where I can down load. Thank you, Sam modelbld@aol.com
  5. does anyone make a tropical filter for tamiya's or hasegawa's 190A-3/A-4? thanks!
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