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Posts posted by 66Foxtrot
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I am getting an error when I click on the link. Website server may be down.
DNS change....should be back online within the next 24 hrs.
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For another perspective on this kit, I've done a quick in-box review. A build article will be forthcoming, shortly.
James
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Looks great, nice job!
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GAWD, I love Ed Force One!!!! Was that Minicraft kit as bad as I read it is, or is it floggable? Your wings look pretty even Gil...how'd you do it? I still have that decal sheet from a few years ago, when we all ordered them. Just wanna be sure when I use them, it's the right kit. There won't be any more....
As tedious as it is, you need to airbrush the lips. I suggest Alclad II Chrome. It MUST be sprayed over gloss black/dark blue enamel. It's maskable, so you can paint it first or last depending on the color of the engine pods.If your pods are black or a very dark blue, you can paint the pods as normal and then mask off the lips and apply the Chrome last.
If the pods are white or another light color, then you can paint the gloss black (let dry thoroughly), paint the Chrome, and then mask off the lips. After that, spray a coat of silver or aluminum on the pods to get rid of any black/chrome overspray; and then paint the pod color.
I've found that Tamiya tape cut into VERY thin strips works very well. The Chrome is pretty tough, but low tack tapes are the way to go. Hope this helps!
Here's an example of how nice and bright the Alclad II Chrome is. It was painted directy over the gloss blue pods. Cheers!
GIL
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I did this to experiment with the "salt" technique to replicate wear/tear/chipping. After I laid down some Alclad II chrome, I decided it would be really cool to mist on some light coats of acrylic blue "Aotake". I know it was used on a lot of interior metal as an anti-corrosive in Japan, but wasn't sure about the exterior. Apparently, it was never used as an exterior primer, but I don't care. I like how it turned out, and it was a lot of fun. It's OOB, with Gunze Acrylics.
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I've used one of his saws for about 3 years now. It's my favorite tool, and also works tremendously as a scriber.
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Don't worry. It'll never sell and they'll abandon the RA market.
Actually, Dragon has discovered there is quite a good market for Artillery.
Rumor has it they are on Pelileu looking at a 200mm IJA field gun emplacement.
I, for one, would love to see a serious of the US Rail Guns to complement the German ones. A 14/45 railway gun in France in WW1... I'd love it!
It's not a rumor, Jim, although it IS an Imperial Japanese Navy Type 2 (Ka-Mi) Amphibious Tank: http://www.dragon-models.com/html/peleliu_index.html
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Very nice job. Whose decals did you use? Kit decals?
Thanks Dave,
Yeah those are the kit stickers.
Thanks, Duke.
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Built last Monday, painted last Tuesday, decaled last Wednesday. Then it sat until today, when I received the canopy masks I ordered. Finished that bit off today. Hasegawa 1/48 Bf-109K-4. Built OOB except for Eduard PE seat harness. CSI/Creos acrylics.
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LOOKS AWESOME CD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Decaled it yesterday. Not much today, I have a splitting headache.
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It ain't Saturday, but I did buy this kit last Saturday at the SVASM show. I started it yesterday morning, and here it is ready for decals. Hasegawa's 1/48 Bf-109K-4. Gunze-Sangyo (GSI/Creos) acrylics, applied w/an Iwata Custom Micron-B.
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Try this:
- Hold a piece of paper over the inlet opening (easier if the airframe isn't together yet).
- Rub a pencil around the whole area of the inlet, holding the pencil flat against the paper
- Once you get an outline of the inlet on the paper, cut it out and trace around it on whatever you're making the cover out of.
- Cut it out, and....
- Viola'! A FOD cover.
- Make a handle out of stretched sprue or whatever.
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I was surfing around online , and stumbled across this pic from a model entered at the recent KZOO show. It looks pretty sharp, and I wanted to share!!!!!!! I wish I could get my airplanes to turn out like this one!!!!!!!!!
Posted from:
24.239.122.240
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Very nice, Ying!!
I love the chipped paint effects, particularly on the wings. The NMF on the bottom is great, also. Very nicely-executed.
JK
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Well, I found this: Bob's Buckles
And I found this:
http://wwi-cookup.com/albatros/modelling_h...urnbuckles.html
http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/11/...ech_rigging.htm
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Hey, she's beautiful, just sayin' I'm sure she gets her good looks from her Dad!!
Those turnbuckles look great! Injection-molded? Also, is "S" scale close to 1/32? A dozen for $3 is a good deal....Imma have to get up the stones to start my WNW LVG. Haven't bothered with it, because it's "too nice" of a kit....I don't think I'd do it justice.
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I am building a Skyraider for an OOB build possibly to enter a contest. I want to leave the engine exposed and have searched for a good head on pic of the 3350 so I could add some detailing. Anyone know of a good head on pic on a website or mabye you have a book you could scan me a pic.Thanks
Does the kit come with an engine, and removable panels? Otherwise, if you're adding them as aftermarket, it's no longer "OOB" according to IPMS rules. You also mentioned you wanted to "add some detailing"....again, when you do it's no longer OOB.
Regardless, I'd like to see some pics of it as you do the project!
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Thanks for the link....Erin is pretty hot!
(Now, where do I find the turnbuckles???)
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By George, you've got it!
Great work! I started an Otaki a few days before NATS as well...Bf-109G. It's on hold until I finish the Koster vac XP-72 Ultrabolt. Hope my 109 turns out 1/2 as good as yours!
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Thanks, guys!
Clare, my goal was to finish it for Phoenix....missed it by a week, LOL! It was great seeing you and the Mrs.
Zokei-Mura Ta-152H-1
in Aircraft
Posted
Since ScaleWarbirds Studios is down, still (ISP says it's a DNS propagation; Domain registrar says nothing.) I'll post the first full update here.
I spent the past 3 days building up the cockpit. The first thing that I'll say, is, I'm a little disappointed in the details. I think that they're a little soft. When I first saw the silver plastic, I was hopeful the details would "pop" under some paint. They did, but...I just feel that they are not as crisp as they could be. I had an Eduard FW-190D-9 cockpit set around somewhere, and I was going to use that for this project, but...of course, I can't find it. Now that the cockpit is finished, it'll turn up, any minute now. If you have the Eduard PE set I just mentioned, I think you'd be better off using it. Fortunately, as it's a Focke-Wulf...you won't see too much of the IP, once it's up under the coaming. For that reason as well, I decided to forgo detailing the different colored bezels.
The second thing that I'll say, and this is more of an issue, is the decals. They're not great. The instrument panel decals come in two options: one whole panel of instruments, one each for the upper and lower IP, and one each for the left and right hand tub panels. The other option is individual dials for each instrument. I initially went with the whole panel option, because I wanted to see how they performed. After numerous coats of Mr. Mark Softer and SolvaSet, they simply draped over the panels like thin vinyl. Not cool. Hot water, slice and dice, nothing helped. They're pretty much impervious to decal solutions. I soaked the whole thing in isopropyl, and scrubbed them off with a small brush. Then, I repainted the clear instrument panel, and used the individual decals. This was a better end result, but not great, AFAIC. I added some Future into each dial to represent the glass of each dial face. Additionally, and you can see in some of the pics, the graphics are heavily pixilated, like a dot-matrix printer. I'm concerned, because the airframe decals are of the same sheet. There isn't any dot-matrix patterns on the numbers or national markings...but I'm concerned how they will perform/go down. I'm already thinking about aftermarket decals.
I do like the seats. I used the one with the belts molded onto it, and under paint, it's as nice as any resin replacement. I wish the shoulder straps went up onto the turtle-deck, but, with molding limitations, I understand why they don't. I think the seat looks pretty cool. All in all, the parts assembled very quickly, and easily. Most of the past 3 days was spent painting everything. I gave a Burnt Umber wash to most parts, followed by drybrushing with Gunmetal. I didn't fuss with the Nitrous Oxide tank, or the battery, or the fuel cells. You won't see them once in the fuselage.
Here's the pictures, thus far. You can decide for yourselves.