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Neal

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by Neal

  1. Still working on my entry! Actually, I'm still at work, but I'll get back to it this evening. Assuming I finish, you will know my model by the fresh, heavy Tamiya rattle can smell. The stuff is great though, for procrastinators like me. Just this morning, I managed to get three different colors onto the display stand I'm making. Not even packed yet, both myself and the model, for the 4,747 mile journey. I wouldn't want to drive that distance, but the issue is moot, for my car would have to be amphibious to do so. I wish all fellow procrastinators good luck, Godspeed, and see you in Orlando!
  2. Bob, I was supposed to build a Tyrrell six-wheeler too, but I had to shelve it due to that annoying thing called work. I look forward to seeing yours at the Nats! Which version are you building? I was doing Depallier's #4 car from the 1977 Monaco GP. Up until I started this model, I had no idea how much race cars change during a season. It has been a very educational experience for me, and I hope to finish the model eventually. But back on topic... I am guilty of last-minute builds, as I've had to scramble for pretty much every Nats I have attended. For me, this is definitely NOT the way to do things, as it causes me extreme frustration and poor quality work. The last Nats I attended, I had to final assemble my model in the hotel room, and it took until Friday afternoon to get everything together. The stress sucked out all the fun, so I resolved to never do that again. But true to form, I am scrambling to get something on the table next week. (An A.D. Police helicopter from the Japanese anime "Bubblegum Crisis". Crisis indeed.) I hope to finish it, as it was a project started around 20 years ago, and was hauled off the shelf of doom twice in failed attempts to get it to a contest. I slapped together a base last night, and still have some bits to work on for the helicopter. Anyway, good luck to everyone working on their contest models. Remember, never give up, never surrender! (And not "Konya Wa Hurricane" - heaven forbid a hurrcane during the Nats!) See you in Orlando!
  3. I have a buddy who lost his IPMS card and recently moved. He was wondering if there is a POC he could get his number and expiration date from, as well as update his mailing addy. Can someone help? TIA, Neal
  4. OMG!!! Good find, Philip! The box art sucks, but I couldn't care less! I figured Fine Molds would have done it, but hey Fujimi is okay by me. Now let the debate over guesstimated cost begin. I will start with 3,500 Yen. (No scientific basis, just a wild guess!) Neal Oh wait, it says 5,040 Yen in one of the photos. Good greif that's expen$ive! I guess the licensing costs are at work here. The release date says October. I wonder if it is 2011 or 2012? We'll see. Neal
  5. OMG!!! Good find, Philip! The box art sucks, but I couldn't care less! I figured Fine Molds would have done it, but hey Fujimi is okay by me. Now let the debate over guesstimated cost begin. I will start with 3,500 Yen. (No scientific basis, just a wild guess!) Neal
  6. Aircraft 1/72: Convair Sea Dart (Mach Poo does not count!) Kawasaki C-1 JASDF transport (come on, Hasegawa!) Bartini-Beriev VVA-14M1P ultra bizarre Soviet ekranoplan Aircraft 1/48: Gloster Javelin (rumors are that Airfix is working on one) British aircraft weapon set (1960-1980 era) Aircraft 1/32: Arado Ar-234B Blitz Yokosuka MXY7 Ohka suicide rocket Harrier GR Mk3 Armor, all 1/35: SA-4 Ganef Soviet tracked SAM launcher T-10M Soviet heavy tank (the ancient Tamiya kit is more a caricature than a correctable model) Conqueror British heavy tank M103 USMC heavy tank MBT-70 US experimental tank St Chamond WW I French tank Figures, all 1/35: WW I British, French, and German infantry in gas equipment US tank crew, Vietnam era Soviet tank crew on parade (ie with headgear buttoned up, commander giving a stiff salute, and the driver and gunner figures wearing sour expressions) Space/Sci-Fi: N-1 Soviet moon rocket, 1/144 2001 Discovery, 1/144 2001 Space Pod, 1/24 Bladerunner Spinner car, 1/24 Last Starfighter Gunstar, 1/72 TIE Bomber, 1/72 Vader's TIE fighter, 1/72 Okay, I have go lie down and rest now. Neal
  7. Wow, not a peep from anyone. I would put money on Tamiya doing a Type 10, as they have kitted the Type 61, 74, and 90. Since (I assume) the number refers to the year the tank entered service, the Type 10 should alrady be in the hands of JGSDF tankers by now. So Tamiya should be working on a kit of a production version. I have no idea how the development of the Type 10 went, but I find it surprising that Japan can field a brand-spanking new tank in the current economic climate. I hope they can afford more than 20. I'm waiting for a 1/35 kit too. I hope the Big T delivers soon! Maybe an announcement will pop up at the Plamo-Radicon Show in the fall. We can only hope. (And maybe they can do a T-10M or a T-80 next year.)
  8. I use ordinary hardware store lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics with absolutely no problems. In fact, it airbrushes like an enamel. I have had nothing but trouble trying to airbrush acrylics with alcohol or water, so I tried the lacquer thinner based on others' comments. Give it a try, it should work a treat. (But try it out on a scrap model first!) Neal
  9. I bought the Verlinden 1/32 Hunley, and one thing I can pass along is that you should have a motor tool with the biggest griding/cutting head you can get your hands on. The kit I have was molded in a light green resin, and was super hard. I got impatient when removing the keel pour block and shattered it while trying to saw it off, giving myself a huge cut on a finger which bled like hell while I continued grinding off the remaining stub. I worked in the laundry sink and kept dunking the parts in soapy water to keep the dust down, which made the parts slippery and contributed to my little accident. Anyway, after clean-up the kit went together without any problems and turned out OK in the end. The only changes I did was to add punched acetate porthole windows and some additinal bracing for the torpedo spar. Sorry, but I am technologically backwards and have no on-line photos to share. I really gotta set up a Photobucket account. There was a waterline kit in the box in additon to the full hull kit. If you want the waterline model parts, PM me. Neal
  10. I have previously had nothing but trouble with acrylics. The original Polly S stuff reminded me of the paints we used in elementary school. When Tamiya came out with their acrylic range, I gave it a spin and was equally disappointed. I tried Polly Scale flat on the recommendation of a model buddy, and while it was one of the best dead flat finishes I ever had, the airbrush kept clogging every 10 seconds of use and spat booger wads of congealed clear flat onto the model. However, recently I have been experimenting airbrushing Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner as the solvent, and it works great! It sprays like a fine enamel, and has none of the frustrating clogging issues that seem to plague acrylics. The paint also dries really fast. A friend came over to airbrush some Tamiya acrylics using distilled water as a solvent, and it took around 30 minutes for the paint to dry enough to mask over for the next color. I am an enamel user, so I can usually start masking only 5 to 10 minutes after the previous coat (assuming it was flat). Some have pointed out that using lacquer thinner to airbrush defeats the odor advantage of acrylics, but I paint outside so it is not an issue for me. I have also heard that profesional grade lacquer thinner is required to get good results, but I use the cheap hardware store stuff in the gallon can. Cleanup of acrylic paint is a snap using lacquer thinner. I have also tried limited brush painting with Tamiya acrylics, again using lacquer thinner as a solvent, and the results have been excellent. A single "wet" pass is needed to get even coverage and to avoid brush strokes. If a second coat is needed, wait until the first coat is really dry like 15 to 30 minutes. The only thing to watch out for is that lacquer thinner attacks styrene plastic, so avoid super heavy applications of thinned paint. Also, I have found that the Tamiya acrylic will take clear lacquer overcoats without crazing. I use Tamiya/Gunze gloss from the rattle can as well as Testors glosscote/dullcote with an airbrush. I usually use Tamiya/Gunze rattle can primer (the fine one) for an undercoat for most of my models. Alclad grey primer also works very well. One thing I noticed was that Tamiya acrylics tend to chip easily, so the robot kits might have to stay with the enamels. Hope that helped. Neal
  11. Neal

    Nose weights?

    Ralph, I tape together all the main components, including the internals, and set the model on an Xacto knife handle, strategically located at the estimated location where the main wheels contact the ground. (Beware aircraft with forward-raked main gear!) I then get a small resealable baggie and start filing it with lead bird shot. The baggie is placed on the nose of the model where the weight will eventually go, and I keep adding shot until the model tips over on its nose. Then I add a little more for insurance. The bird shot is small, so it can conform to irregular cavites with ease. To be extra cautious, look the model over for other potential spaces for weight, like engine cowls and even drop tanks. Keep the parts separate from the model until final assembly, then perform a final balance check. Add more ballast to the standby location until you have a balanced model. I really feel for the guys who end up adding ballast into the nose gear well. I have noticed that mixing bird shot with CA glue causes slight expansion when the glue sets, which leads to fit problems afterwards, not to mention the risk of frosting painted parts. I use either Miliput epoxy putty or "Mori-Mori" polyester putty (Bondo is essentially the same stuff) in lieu of CA, and the results are very satisfactory. If the ballast needs to be formed, but removed during construction for any reason, line the fuselage cavity with Bare Metal Foil or even plastic cling wrap before stuffing it with ballast. If all else fails, forget the ballast and secure the model to a base. I did a balance check on a Classic Airframes Gannet, and it will require a frightening amount of lead to keep it from tipping over. I may pin the main gear to a base, and run a wire loop over the nose wheel axle to keep the nose down. Hope that helps. Neal
  12. What about the Hughes XF-11? It was only a prototype, but what sleek lines! Neal
  13. The vehicle appeared in "Mobile Suit Gundam: The 08th MS Team" series of videos. The swing arm thingie is a ground listening device used to track enemy unit movments. I think the snorkel-looking thing is a comm antenna. Hope that helped. Have fun building the kit! Neal
  14. I have had pretty good luck flying with models, and the two most important things I have learned is not to let the model move, and not to let any part contact the container. Prop up the model with scrap foam rubber to keep the wheels up, and a don't forget a corresponding piece on top of the model to keep it from rattling around. Cut foam scraps to shim the wings, nose, tail, etc while avoiding areas with antennas, pitot tubes and such. Tape the foam pieces in place if necessary. I use carboard boxes and paper towels to complete my high tech packaging. This works well for smaller models, but I would be at a loss for suggestions if you were packing a 1/48 bomber. Hope that helped. Neal
  15. The best kit I have built is Imai's Thunderbirds "Mole". It was full of motorized gimmicks, but went together with absolutely no fuss. The amount of research that went into the kit equalled any scale subject. It was the only kit I built since high school that needed no modifications. Plus the pulsing red beacon was really cool! My worst built kit? I was big into Luft 1946 before it became fashionable, so I built a lot of Huma kits. The Triebflugel was my first, and it was also my first kit that recieved a scratchbuilt cockpit and completely redone panel scribing. It was a PITA, but came out okay. All my other Huma kits were pretty much the same, except that their panel lines got straighter with each new release. Their decals, however, never really progressed beyond performing like frosted Scotch tape. My runner up for worst built kit is the Trimaster/DML Me-262. Detail-wise, it was superlative. However, the fit was really dodgy, especially the lower wing to fuselage joint. The leading edge fairings for the engines fit so poorly and were ridden with sink marks, that I decided to build the engines exposed. The main landing gear bay was fiddly and demanded precise assembly for the gear legs to fit, which of course I found out the hard way. The windscreen was crazed at the sprue attachment point, thus spoiling the model. It took three months of continuous work to get the model done, and while I still think it is one of the most accurate Me-262 kits around, I will never build another one. My vote for worst unbuilt kit is anything from the Mach 2 catalogue. I have a bunch, but never finished a single one. For the uninitiated, their clear parts resemble toe nail clippings, their decals look like something from a flea market find, and their plastic parts are unevenly thick, rough, deformed, and full of crazy stuff like ejector pin mark perforations and crinkles due to mold cracking. And they never get any better. I really wish MPM and Special Hobby would step in and give us some decent replacements. But who else would want a Snecma C.450 or a LeDuc 010? Neal
  16. Neal

    Wave Model???

    Mark, Wave is a Japanese company that was around from the early days of the garage kit boom back in the 1980s. As of late, they have branched out into injection molded kits and accessories, all sci-fi I believe. What item are you looking for? Check out Hobby Link Japan www.hlj.com to see what is currently available from that manufacturer. I hope this helped. Neal
  17. The Hasegawa Falke. This was a "Holy Grail" subject for me for many years, and I even started to scratchbuild one. I decided to not go AMS on this one and build it OOTB. I have had it for "only" a year now, so I figure I'd better get cracking on it. Neal
  18. Oh, here's a linky to their website: http://www.starfleet-models.com/Models/Com...fault.htm#SC-24 Lots of neat looking stuff.
  19. Has anyone bought one of Starcrafts' Star Trek resin kits? Are they any good? Are the molding and quality control good, bad or ugly? Inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks in advance, Neal
  20. To me, moveable parts on a model are a mixed bag. For aircraft, I generally accept that most parts except for the propeller will be fixed. Airplanes are delicate things, so when scaled down to miniature size, moveable parts become either overscale or extremely fragile. I loved swing wings when I was younger, but when I found out that inflatable bladders are used to seal the gaps in the fuselage, I grudgingly accepted choosing full forward or fully swept position wings. I think the Tu-160 is the exception, as it does not have bladders, and the internal guts of the wing root are visible when the wings are fully forward. If the fairings were to be hinged, you could have an authentic model with moveable wings, the best of both worlds. The Tamiya Zero is gimmicky in my opinion, especially the retactable landing gear. It looks like the first thing that would break after the model was done. I also didn't like the removable leading edge panels and the grease in the gear pinions. The rest of the model is outstanding though. For armor, only a moveable turret is a must-have. A lot of tanks have a dust cover over their mantlet, so short of making one from a flexible material, I accept the fixed pose of the gun. I completely switch gear when it comes to robot things. Thanks to Bandai's recent efforts to make crazy-poseable kits, I now demand it. Plus making servo and beam gun noises wouldn't be cool if the model was in a static pose. Pew-pew! Neal
  21. Oh... The horrible memories return. There was the other girl that died from the giant catepillar right? I can't believe that I still remember stuff from that movie. Well, maybe I just remembered that part... Neal
  22. "Galaxy of Terror"?! Ouch, that one was really bad! I actually paid money to see it in the theater. I mean no disrespect whaling on your GP Gil. My personal favorite pick for the stinkiest movie in the universe goes to "Star Crash". Yeah Caroline Munro was a hottie in her day, but the bad smell of the movie could be detected from the next quadrant! And what was that stupid cowboy robot about? And on a modeling note, I think Star Crash was the first movie I saw where the majority of surface detailing of the ships comprised of whole sprues simply glued to their sufaces. Oh oh, red alert! Drifting off topic! Helmsman, evade thread hijacker and recalculate course back to topic! Neal "I seen a lot of really, really BAD movies in my day" Izumi
  23. My top 3: 1 - Star Wars (The 1977, REAL Episode I) 2 - Terminator (The first one) 3 - Star Trek II -The Wrath of Khan My top 3 guilty pleasures: 1 - Galaxy Quest (By Grabthar's Hammer, it was the absolutely finest Star Trek parody movie ever made!) 2 - The Last Starfighter 3 - Space Balls I think Star Wars was special for me because after leaving the theater, my perception of what a good sci-fi movie was changed forever. Although I never bought a "Force Beam", collected the Kenner figures, or joined any fan clubs, I will always remember Star Wars as the one standout sci-fi movie. And since this a modeling forum, it is also worth mentioning that Star Wars was the movie which inspired me to start scratchbuilding! Neal
  24. Neal

    RAF Hemp

    Everyone, Thanks for the input! I have a bottle of MM US Armour Sand in the paint box, so I will take a look at it tonight. I was initially going for the Tamiya acrylic route, but am now a little concerned about the paint crinkling up, as I use rattle can Tamiya clear gloss to prep my models for decals. I am aware of the time-honored "lacquer, then enamel, then acrylic" rule, but I have violated that rule many times in the past. But I never tried applying Tamiya spray lacquer over their acrylics. Does anyone have experience in the matter? Oops, drifting off topic here. And I think I hear the Paint Compatibility Police knocking on my door. Neal "breaking the law, breaking the law" Izumi
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