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Posts posted by SkyKing

  1. I've not used this product, but the Tamiya web site (http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87096surface/index.htm) recommends Tamiya lacquer thinner, so it must be a lacquer-based product.


    Here's what someone else on another forum had to say about it:


    "I had big problems trying to spray it when thinning with normal automotive lacquer thinner - the stuff would dry in the air and form a powdery texture. Luckily you could rub it off easily with some alcohol since it never adhered that well to the surface. I then discovered Tamiya lacquer thinner - expensive stuff but it seems to dry slower and the powdering problem disappeared. When thinning the Tamiya liquid surface primer with the Tamiya lacquer thinner, I now get a satin/glossy finish that makes quite a nice base for further painting. I heard you can also use the Gunze levelling thinners, but haven't tried it myself."


  2. About 25 years ago (!), to coincide with the 75th anniversary of naval aviation, I had a brief article in the old Update listing available 1/72 US Navy aircraft kits which might be built to celebrate same. Now that the 100th anniversary of navair is approaching, I'd like to update that list. However, I no longer have a copy of my original article. Is there some kind soul out there with an extensive archive of IPMS publications that could track down that article and send me a copy? You will earn my eternal gratitude.

  3. According to a Floquil Marine Colors chart I have, this was a part of their line of "Classic Colors of Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century Vessels." And although it's not clear from the chart, it may have been a "rigging stain" into which rigging thread was to be dipped in order to simulate oiled rope. Or perhaps it was intended to be applied to wood or metal surfaces on sailing ships that would have had an oil film applied in real life.


    The chart does not have a chip for this color. In fact, the space where the chip would normally be on the chart bears the words "CHIP NOT SHOWN."


  4. I've not yet had a chance to try Mr. Color, but I'm told there is a "Mr. Color Leveling Thinner" which has a retarder in it to slow the drying time so the paint levels out without runs or orange peel (hence the name). You might give it a try. Posters on other forums have reported the same problem that you have experienced and also reported that the Leveling Thinner seemed to solve it.

  5. Here is what I learned. One contact says:


    "The Countdown Gemini Titan is really not much. In fact if it had not come in a box that said what it was I would not have known."


    Another says:


    "I have it here and frankly forget it. Although the Saturn V isn't too bad, the Gemini-Titan is really badly made toy! as far as Countdown was concerned, it was only issued built. It was in comparable packaging to the built Saturn by itself. Saturn in red box, Gemini in blue."



  6. Google is your friend. A search for "Coundown, Inc. models" turned this up at http://321awards.com/about.htm


    In 1966, Countdown, Inc. was founded by Mr. Dick Repper. Countdown, Inc. built model rockets of Saturn V. These rockets were sold at the souvenir shop at NASA in Cape Canaveral, Florida. In an effort to grow his company, Mr. Reeper decided to branch out into the plaque and trophy industry.


    In 1974, the Award Shoppe was purchased by, Billy and Myra Sermons. At the time the Award Shoppe was a small local award store. The Award Shoppe grew over the next twelve years before being sold to Billy and Myra's son, Michael Sermons, in 1986.


    In 1988, Mr. Dick Repper sold Countdown, Inc. to Billy and Myra Sermons. Both Countdown, Inc. and the Award Shoppe were managed by the Sermons family for 2 years.


    In 1990, with the retirement of Billy and Myra Sermons the merger between Countdown, Inc. and the Award Shoppe took place giving us the business we all know today, Countdown's Award Shoppe.


    In 2005, Countdown's Award Shoppe bought out The Trophy Center, another local award store.


    Unfortunately, it looks as though they no longer produce models.


    I posted an inquiry on the space-modelers Yahoo group forum. I'm sure someone there will know about these models.

  7. If you have an image editing program such as Photoshop, you can scale the image to the size you need before printing it. However, this demands that you know the original size of the design first. For example, if you want to print a design that is 4 feet (48 inches) high in real life to fit a 1/48 scale model, you must reduce the size of that image to 1 inch high.


    There are simply too many variables to tell you what "size of picture" you need to print a given decal to fit a given model. But if you have a drawing program such as Illustrator, you can draw your own designs to the correct size to begin with. But again, this demands that you know the actual size of the original design.

  8. A Google search (Google is your friend) for "painting polyethylene plastic" turned up many sites. One suggests using an alkyd oil-based primer followed by a compatible exterior-grade paint. Another suggests Rustoleum spray-can primer for plastic patio furniture and also suggests scuffing the surface first with sandpaper to help adhesion.


    A good exterior enamel is probably necessary for the final finish, and you would probably be better off using spray cans instead of the airbrush.

  9. If you are finding no cookies for ipmsusa2.org, that would be the reason you need to re-log in. Sounds like you have cookies turned off in Safari's Security preference pane, I set mine to 'Only from sites I visit'.




    They're there; I just didn't look hard enough for them. I deleted all the cookies for ipmsusa2.org, quit Safari, then re-opened it. That seemed to have solved the problem, and so far it has not re-occurred.

  10. As I was surfing the new Forums, I kept getting the Error message that "I am not allowed to use this feature. If you need to log in you can use the form below." This happened after every three or four Threads were read/posted on, and always when I moved to a different Forum (i.e from IPMS USA Forum to Modeling Forum and then to Other Topics Forum) Is there any way to prevent this as it is extremely annoying having to log in all the time. And apparently, despite having cookies activated for this Forums, it certainly doesn't "remember me" even though I have that checked.


    Thank you for any assistance you can offer.


    It just did it again when I hit "Post New Topic"!


    I'm having the same problem, but only when I first try to view the forums, not while switching from one to another. I have "Remember Me" checked, and it always worked until just recently, say within the last week or two.

  11. The term "Aztec' simply comes from the similarity of the pattern seen on the primary hull to the steps of a Central American Aztec temple. And, yes, the pattern is intended to simulate the hull plating of the "real" starship's construction, like the different tones of natural metal visible in the construction of a real metal aircraft.


    For an interesting article on how the "real" Enterprise was painted, and how to duplicate it, go here:





  12. Fans of "Forbidden Planet" no doubt have this kit. I do as well, but was surprised to learn that the saucer dome is too small and the wrong shape. Some time ago, on another forum, a modeler announced the availability of a replacement part. I just received mine, and it is an outstanding product, vac-formed in 0.060" styrene over a lathe-turned master and pre-cut to fit. It is a real piece of work that truly enhances what is basically a good kit. You can see the difference in this photo:




    Cost is only $22.50 plus $6.00 shipping and handling in the US (plus another $1.50 if using PayPal).


    If interested, send an email to: panotraguis@comcast.net


    I have no financial interest in this product, but highly recommend it to fans of the Polar Lights C-57D kit.

  13. Someone I know also contacted SC Johnson and they told him the formula was the same just a name change. He was contacted my a diffirent person from SC Johnson than I was. So, we have two diffirent answers from SC Johnson. I quess the truth is in the testing.




    This was posted yesterday on HyperScale:


    After reviewing the response which was sent to your friend and fellow modeler, I wanted to follow up with you regarding the information that was initially shared with him.


    Future® is still being manufactured, but is now named Pledge® with Future® Shine. The formula of the product has not changed. It is true; however, that Pledge® with Future® Shine has not been tested for use on plastic scale models so we cannot recommend it for that purpose. As you know weve designed this product for floor care.


    It sounds as if Future® found a special niche with plastic scale model builders, and we are happy that it has worked well for you. Thank you for giving us a chance to set the record straight.






    Consumer Relationship Center

    SC Johnson, A Family Company

    Toll Free Number: 1-800-558-5252



    Which confirms what many of us have said all along, namely, that Future is still available, only the name has been changed. (But I ran out and bought three more bottles of "Pledge with Future Shine" anyway, just in case!)


  14. I made an inquirey to SC Johnson about Future. There answer is Future is no longer being manufactured or distrributed. It has been replace with another product with a diffirent formula. :smiley19:




    Future has been replaced by "Pledge with Future Shine" in the US. Only the name has been changed; the product is the same. The formula is no different in the US.

  15. While I don't live anywhere near TX, I think I still have a copy of this around the house. In fact, I am pretty sure I have the original and the update. One had a yellow cover & the other blue.

    I don't have a need to keep it, if anyone's interested in getting one for yourself... :smiley2:


    I can start looking if there is some interest.


    I'll take both off your hands if you are serious about getting rid of them.

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