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SkyKing

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Posts posted by SkyKing

  1. If the primer has a rough sandpaper-like finish, then yes, you should sand it. I'd start with 400 grit and gradually work your way up (600-grit, 800-grit, etc.) until the surface is completely smooth, then finish off with a rubdown with a micro cloth. For best results, when you change grits, sand at right angles to the previous effort.

  2. Normally you can put an enamel on top of another enamel, assuming the same type of enamel is used for both coats. Tamiya's 'acrylics' are technically enamels, but are alcohol based, so if Tamiya's enamels and enamel thinner use a different solvent, it's possible they might damage a coat of Tamiya 'acrylic.' The only way is know is to try it on an old model. Spray a coat of 'acrylic' and allow it to fully dry/cure, then try the enamel stain on top of it.

  3. post-85-0-76296100-1487880022_thumb.jpg (Click on thumbnail for a larger image.)

     

    I accidentally stumbled upon this in my search for a Monogram kit and thought I'd pass it on. This is not Lone Star Models of Texas that many of us are familiar with, but the Japanese 'cottage industry' of one Yukio Kanezawa. That notwithstanding, it's one of the best examples of resin casting I've seen, without flaws and with panel lines so subtle as to be almost invisible. Although labeled a 'conversion,' it's an almost complete airframe, needing some parts (mainly landing gear, canopy, and cockpit details) from a Hasegawa F-16C or F-16CJ. The intake and landing gear are in the correct position, the rear fuselage has the correct upward tilt, and the wing has the correct camber and twist, so all the problems of accurizing the Monogram F-16XL are eliminated. It's available with either of two sets of decals, one for the USAF and the other for NASA, or a combo containing two kits plus decals for both versions. A kit of F-16XL #2 (the two-seater) was available but is currently sold out. For photos, see here:

    http://lonestars.web.fc2.com/SALE06.htm

    If you need a 1/72 F-16XL for your collection, this is the one to have.

    My kits arrived well-packed and undamaged, via Japan Post registered mail. Mr. Kanezawa accepts PayPal. If you are interested, I'd suggest contacting him via email for an exact quote. He has other 1/72 items as well, and they can be seen here:

     

    http://lonestars.web.fc2.com/SALES.htm

    I have no connection to this vendor other than as a very satisfied customer.

  4. I recently purchased some decals from a well-known decal designer who specializes in decals for sci-fi subjects. They are beautifully printed and in perfect register, and I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone. However, the instructions for these decals contain this claim: "A known fact is that you can apply lacquer over enamel, but not enamel over lacquer."

    This "known fact" was not known to me. In fact, it contradicts everything I have ever read or learned about lacquers and enamels in over 60 years of building models. The rule has ALWAYS been acrylic (water-based) over enamel over lacquer but not the reverse.

    The instructions also state "Using an enamel clear coat such as Krylon or Rust-o-leum may cause damage to the decal." I've never known anyone who uses Krylon or Rust-o-leum on their models and wouldn't recommend them in the first place.

    I questioned him about this and was told: "I've been making decals for over 17 years and early on those who used Krylon Enamel sprays found it ate their decals. They use it because it was cheap and it ruined their finish and they had to repaint their kits. The only cause we could determine was that it was the enamel. At that time I spoke to a friend of mine who did autobody work. He told me that the rule was lacquer could go over anything, but not enamel."

    I've never heard of this "rule." I suggested to him that an auto body specialist was not necessarily the best person to ask about painting plastic models, and that his "known fact" may result in some damaged models and some unfortunate and unwarranted criticism of his decals when a novice modeler sprays a model which has been painted with enamels with an incompatible lacquer clear coat. I also suggested that he correct his "known fact," advise modelers to use paint products intended for plastic models, and eliminate any reference to DIY spray paints.

     

    Comments, anyone?

  5. Frederic Hultberg, proprietor of Fotocut, and known by his email signature, "oletcherfred," died last September at age 70. In association with the late Harry Woodman, Fred developed sheets of photoetch details for World War I aircraft models in the 1970s, and expanded the line to include photoetch details in other scales for specific models as well as sets of generic photoetch products.

     

    http://www.burgessandtedescofuneralhomes.com/book-of-memories/2707681/Hultberg-Fredric/obituary.php

  6. "Chrome" finishes should always be applied over a gloss black base, but should be applied so that they are a bit transparent and NOT completely opaque. It is the transparency and black base coat that gives the chrome finish its chrome look. If you don't believe this, try a test. When your lovely chrome finish suddenly looks like nothing more than high-quality silver paint, you've gone too far.

  7. Yes it was and your stock number is correct. I have one & the Nord 1402 Gerfault I (kit # 7202). I bought mine from Squadron several years ago. And sorry, I don't want to part with them.

     

    But at least you know they exist.

     

    Tim

    Thanks for the confirmation. I have the FM Gerfaut II but am looking for the Griffon II to add to my delta wings collection. The only alternatives seem to be a pricey resin kit or scratchbuilding.

  8. As the person who started this thread, I feel obligated to respond to Nick's comment. My original suggestion was in no way meant to demean the contributions of the volunteer members of the Reviewer Corps or Eric's work as web developer, and I resent your attempting to change the subject of this discussion so as to imply that I or anyone else was accusing them of "lousy service."

     

    As to your comment that "the time they spend providing these services is time they cannot spend building models," I would point out that we ALL have limits on our time, and including the scale (something the reviewer must do anyway) in the review title would save time for readers of the reviews, whether we build in that scale or not. And as Eric has pointed out, that change can be easily made.

     

    P.S. Talk just fine does Yoda. Perfectly understandable he is. Beef have I not, but Star Trek I prefer.

  9.  

    Great stuff here. Gotta remember to put Shapeways on the radar for various projects.

    Thanks.

    Re: Shapeways I've learned you need to order whatever part you want in the best configuration - ultra fine detail (or whatever they are calling it now) to not have the obvious grow lines. It's more $$ but to me it's worth it not to have to spend all that extra time sanding the lines away.

     

    I saw a recent tutorial on YouTube where the guy uses acetone vapors to "melt" the lines away from a part grown with abs. But until I try it, or see someone else besides the guy on the vid try it, I wouldn't recommend putting an expensive piece in with the acetone.

     

    I have those Shapeways parts as well, and although it's been a while since I looked at them (and the kit), I don't recall seeing any lines in the parts.

     

    This is a great tutorial on building that kit. I'll be following further progress with interest.

  10. I recommend Tamiya's liquid cements as well. Testors liquid is also good. There's also a liquid cement made by Faller, a German model railroad company. It's sold in a squeeze bottle with a metal tube nozzle. It's thicker than most liquid cements but not as thick as tube glue, and I find it ideal for cementing wings to fuselages and other major joints. You can usually find it at hobby shops that specialize in model railroads.

     

    FLR-170490-2.jpg

     

    I also endorse Duke Madddog's suggestion to attend his Hobby Day. Forums like this are good, but you can learn far more about model building by joining an IPMS chapter and soliciting advice from the members.

  11. I'd suggest starting by reading the kit instructions and studying them thoroughly, then following them. It should be obvious what should be done first. Use a marker or pen to mark through the part numbers as you install them. That'll help you remember what you've done as well as help you build in a logical sequence. For example, you can't glue the fuselage halves together and glue the canopy on then expect to install the cockpit. It's not rocket science.

  12. So we're slaves to an automated database? Ridiculous.

     

    How hard would it be to put the scale field first? And why is it necessary to include "kit" when all aftermarket parts such as Quickboost, Pavla, Aries, etc., are for a KIT!

     

    So then the title would be, to use your examples:

     

    1/48 P-51B/C/D Mustang Propeller w/Tool by Quickboost for Tamiya

  13. Would the members of the Reviewer Corps kindly put the SCALE of the kit/aftermarket part/decal in the review title? It is somewhat aggravating to click on a review of something that sounds interesting and then start to read it only to find that the item is not applicable to my preferred scale. This does not sound like too much to ask.

    • Like 1
  14. BTW, what do you think of turning this build into an ebook for the benefit of non-IPMS members...or at least anyone who doesn't visit this forum?

    Speaking for myself, that's a great idea! Even consolidating the separate parts into one thread when the build is complete would be great. Then it can be saved for future reference as a web page which can be opened in any browser.

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