Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by pyrman

  1. Jack & Mark, thanks for the comments.


    Mark, the weld beads are more time consuming than anything. This is the first Sherman I've taken the time to detail- I took a break of over a year after spending nearly 10-days just building up and sanding the cast-in cheek armor.


    Jack, nice M4A2. I make the weld beads from .010 x .020 Evergreen strips. The sand skirt mounting strips are .010 x .080 strips (Evergreen 104.) The rear fender/mud guard mounts are .100 angle (Evergreen 293).) I actually found a local early M4A3 and measured the mounting strip lengths and the distance between the mounting holes. I'm planning on only adding the lower section of the rear stack - the 6th Tank Bn was landed by LST/LCM direct to shore on Okinawa. The USMC 6th Tank Sherman crews welded spare track links to the front, sides and turrets during the campaign.

  2. Tim, thanks for the compliment. Although tempting, I'm not planning on doing a "Solution B" jagdpanzer- instead settling on a Solution A (Sperber) AFV. Doing the link-link tracks is time consuming enough as it is. I also need to figure out how I'm going to mount the gun sight. One of the problems with adding the battery/transformer box to the E-25, is there's limited space on the rear engine access plate. I'm not sure if you're aware, but the Fahrgeraet 1253 was designed for the drivers use on a lateral mount inside AFVs- so I could just put the 20cm Uhu in place of the Bosch light.

  3. Decide on a scheme yet??????
    Thanks, Jack. The camo will most likely be an olivgrun base w/rotbraun "octopus" scheme (as seen on a King Tiger from sPzAbt510.) I had to add the bolts (scraped off the alternate vent plate) on the rear engine access plate. I'll be using the link-link tracks for both the E-25 & E-10 as the rubberband tracks are just too tight.
  4. I found a drawing on the internet showing the tool racks normally seen on the Panthers and thougth it looked interesting so I added them and a cut down cast commanders cupola with IR mounted. Interestingly, the drawing on the instruction sheet shows where the site does on the upper sloped armor, but Trumpeter failed to add it to the kit. There's no skirt armor in the kit, so I sanded off the mounting plates



    I had to fill/sand the sink lines where the top/bottom glue together.







  5. Building this basically out of the box. Replacing the fire exinguisher and adding a jack block and antenna mount from Tamiya. I still need to do some detail painting as well as add the secondary camo color and the link-link tracks.





    The Balkenkruez and numbers are from Archer Fine Transfers.



  6. Here's what I'd like to see in plastic:

    • Wessex Sabre
    • Defender 109/110 MRCV's
    • SEAL FAV
    • Saxon APC
    • M1117 Guardian (yes, I know Trupeter has announced it)
    • Trailer mounted MICLIC
    • MRAP's (Cougar/Buffalo/Cheetah, etc)
    • M728
    • Panhard VBL
    • Peugot/Panhard P4
    • VAB
  7. 800px-P-36C_27th_PS_1939_National_Air_Races.jpg

    {copyright USAF}

    U.S. Army Air Corps Curtiss P-36C Hawk fighters of the 27th Pursuit Squadron, 1st Pursuit Group, at Wright Field, Ohio (USA), in 1939. The P-36s were camouflaged just for public relations for the U.S. National Air Races in a paint scheme that was never used by the USAAC.

  8. Brian,


    It's one of two things causing the shine- reflection of light or what's commonly referred to as silvering. If the whole decal shines, it's most likely just reflection of light which has an easy remedy- dullcoat. If only certain parts of the decal shine, then it's silvering. Silvering is caused by air trapped under the decal. There are several remedies that can be done to fix this. The first is to remove the air by poking tiny holes (with a needle or exacto blade) in the decal and apply a decal setting solution. The second would be to remove the decal and apply another over a glosscoat.




  9. Today's digital cameras produce files that are much, much larger than necessary for quality online reproduction. Resize in Photoshop or any of the other image editing programs that can do that sort of thing....
    Most digital cameras also have the capability to set the size of the pic taken from the camera settings/menu- at least my Canon PowerShot does.
  10. WELL! It turns out that, acoording to rumor control, the grapevine and a modeler to be named later, TENAX was never removed/banned from the market place. It appears that the owner/maker was off attending to personal matters. According to the aforementioned sources, TENAX should be back on hobby shelves soon or by the end of the month.

  11. Lemme see..... I have the following are in various states of progress:

    • GamesWorkshop 40k Demolisher and Chaos Predator

    Tamiya M4A3 (USMC)

    Tamiya T-72M1 (Indian Army w/UN markings)

    Tamiya M2A0 Bradley IFV (mean green or Desert Storm 2-tone?)

    Tamiya M577 Command Post (Austrailian or US Army?)

    Zvezda 4,5t Mercedes truck (German fuel truck)

  • Create New...