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Posts posted by phantomordie

  1. Scribing is one of those things that can make or break a modeler. You need to search for all the tips and techniques venues to get a handle on scribing. Don't get discouraged. Get an old model or a very cheap one to practice,practice,practice on. Most of all don't lose heart. I suggest a good scribing tool and there are many to choose from. The best one I have found is the UMM tool. You can go to UMM-USA.com to order one. I find it the easiest and most versatel tool to use. Take your time,it is a slow process to do a good job.

  2. "I have a couple of technical questions,having never built an early model prop. What are the fs no's of the blue's and how do you duplicate the waves in the aluminum surface's."



    There are no FS#'s for WWII colors. Instead, they were ANA colors, but you don't really need to worry about that! There are plenty of available WWII colors from almost every major model paint maker, so simply start looking in the area you usually buy your more modern colors.



    USN WWII (mid-war years) used the "tri-color scheme". It was (basically) Dark Sea Blue over Intermediate Blue over Flat White. According to Thomas Doll's "US Navy Aircraft, Camouflage and Markings 1940-1945" the FS equivilants (today) are: FS25042 (semi-gloss Sea Blue); FS35164 (non-specular Intermidiate Blue); and FS37875 (NS Insignia White). Surfaces that could be seen from above were painted the dark blue, surfaces normally seen from the bottom were painted white, and surfaces viewed from the side were painted the intermediate blue to sort of "blend" the other two together. Note that a lot (but not all) Corsairs had the UNDERSIDES of the OUTER WING PANELS painted in intermediate blue. This was so there would be no stark white color showing when the wings were in the folded position.


    As to the "waving" in the aluminum skin, it's called "oil canning". It's the result of slight indentations in the metal panels where the panel is riveted to the underlying support structure.


    You CAN argue that this is NOT necessary to do in scales such as 1/48 and 1/72, as it is next to unnoticable in those smaller scales. You might think it COULD be seen in 1/32 and 1/24, but still isn't really needed. If you do decide you want to replicate it you have a VERY tough job in front of you!


    Essentially, you'll need to get a curved Exacto blade and CARVE a troph between every line of rivets! Then you'll have to sand out all of the associated scratches, rescribe the lost panel lines, add the rivets back, and then sand it all again to tone down and blend the overall effect. When done properly (i.e.-to scale) it can result in a stunning model! In my mind it's a lot of work that most people do not miss if it's not there. Hope this helps!


    And by the way, I think "crisp" is a very good description of some models. Crisp things have a "snap" to them! Some models are definitely snappy! So, a model that is not crisp basically lacks snap!


    GIL :smiley16:



    Thanks good info!

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