phantomordie

The only way I,ve been able to mask over acrylics is to put a coat of Future on after the acrylic has dried well.

It,s thin and sets up pretty quick.

I used some in the build I am currently doing,the brush really makes it easy to apply the SG without it flowing into places it shouldn't. You can brush on a really thin coat. I don't know that the color makes any difference,but it does dry clear.

I bought a bottle of Purple Krazy glue at Wall-mart. It has a brush in the bottle. It is easy to use and dries clear. The brush is made of some fiber that the glue doesn't harden on it. I like it. Has anyone one else tried it?

Love your build. After seeing your chassis photos got me to thinking. I had a 56 Ford F-100 with a torsion bar front suspention grafted on,wonder if anyone has ever done that with a model?

Where do you purchase syringe needle tubing?

I have not been pleased with Hobby Craft kits. I feel like I have wasted money buying them.

WOW! Really nice build.

Not only resin parts but you should soak all pieces and parts plastic and resin. Mold release can cause fish eyes. Some people wear soft gloves when assembleing a model.

FJ-4 Fury by Grand Phoenix. A horrible kit,mabye some day I will finish it but I just gave up on it at a point I was almost ready to cry.

I'm impressed,very nice.

Really nice build. I'm a fan of the XK-120 SE,have a friend who has one and I about wet myself every time he takes me out in it.

Airwaves made a photo-etch wingfold set if you can find one.

When I would get ready for an inspection in the Navy i would spitshine the tongues of my shoes. Guys would laugh,"Why you doing that,nobodys going to see that". Personal satisfaction.

Have you tried MM green drab?

I've been useing the scriber as my go to scriber for about a year. I really like it,its really versatile,you can use it several ways.

LHS's that carry the Pinewood derby car kits should have small weights that are used on those cars. I use fishing weights,been useing lead but if you heed the caution that has been aired you can find tungston weights that are smaller in size for the equivalent lead weight size. I just go by what I feel will hold the nose down,better to much than to little.

I've used enamels and switched to acrylics then back to enamels and am back to acrylics now mainly because of easier cleanup. If you use acrylics you need a retarder and the proper thinner. I use Model Master acrylics and thin with 91% alcohol with Liquitex medium from Hooby Lobby for retarder. I usually don't have any problems as long as I get my airbrush set right. I thin about 60% paint to 40% alcohol with 2 or three drops of Liquitex. If brushing about 90% paint and 10% alcohol. But that's me,someone else willhave thier own formula. Search all the info available and find what works best for you. There are alot of cheap kits from different sources to experiment on. Everyday is a good day ,some are just better than others.

What is this in the lower left hand corner of my posts that says warn 0%?

I've tried using Elmer's but find it hard to move around and it start's sitting up too quickly. How thin do you make it?

Any reviews for Micro Mask?

I purchased avery small set of brushes from Harbor Freight that are ideal for cleaning airbrushes. I made a mistake when I got in a hurry. I was spraying acrylic and just shot some laquer thinner for a quick clean then changed to enamel,all of a sudden no paint comming out. Complete clog with a gooey mess.

Some people are into airliners.

Thanks

The Tamiya kit comes with an engine and I'm under the impression that some detail can be added as long as you don't use parts from another kit.