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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Thanks for the very kind words... Mark: Yes....you have to watch the angle of the flaps or they can interfere with the fit of the drop tank pylon in the rear if they're too low. John: To my knowledge, the wing was the same chord as the early Saberjet wings on the F-86A and E. I think the slats themselves actually have a wider chord to them by comparison, which may give the illusion of a wider wing. The kit "V" style tail hook is designed to be shown down, and as manufactured, the plane had 6 small doors that covered it when closed. Since I wanted the tail hook up, I actually simply
  2. Finished the Fury this week! This is the 1/48 Kittyhawk FJ-2, and is the first really "correct" FJ Fury in 1/48...the older ESCI effort being a mis-mash of F-86 and Fury parts that wasn't really accurate for either one. This KH kit is one of their better efforts...not perfect, but darn close to it. Most importantly, it gives you the separate leading edge slats that were the main difference between it and the later -3 Fury (soon to be released). The kit has a lot of options, with open gun bays, ammo bays, speed brakes; separate flaps, ailerons, and rudder, as well as the option to fold the
  3. That's a terrific looking T-Bolt! I'd have never guessed you had any problems at all from the result! Congrats, and thanks for sharing with us! Gil
  4. Sharp looking build, and you need to display that on a mirror so people can see the great work you did in the bays on the bottom! Gil
  5. I'm always amazed by the number of irons you have in the fire! Nice progress an all of them, but that landing gear assembly is really impressive! Gil
  6. Sweet! Very shiny! What kits did you use and what scale are they? Those will turn some heads wherever you take them. Thanks for sharing and congrats! Gil
  7. Heck of a good looking Hurricane! 2 questions: what scale is the kit; and were the elevators separate, or did you cut them and reposition them? Excellent addition to your BoB collection for sure! Thanks for sharing! Gil
  8. Super looking build! It's amazing how a little elbow grease can make a classic like that shine....literally! Gil
  9. Super looking build that doesn't show all of the obstacles you overcome! Also nice to see this rarely built bird. By the way, I've been disappointed in a few Roden kits myself, mostly the biplanes, but have found that very hot water seems to help the brittle Roden decals conform ad lay down better. Still, if you can use aftermarket decals....do so! Congrats! Gil
  10. Pretty pony! That real NMF is truly going the extra mile. The only thing that might be missing is the green tipped tracer every 5th round! How are you adhering the metal foil to the plastic? Thanks for sharing! Gil
  11. What a super looking build! That interior shot at the end could pass for one taken at an airshow if you photo-shopped the background. Congrats! Gil
  12. Outstanding skills and results! I'm betting your buddy is very pleased! Thanks for sharing! Gil
  13. Welcome to the site! That's a stunning build...love the weathering! Looks like it just came off of the track! As to whether or not to compete....that's more a matter of your motivation than your skills. If you want to go to shows, display your work, shop, have fun with friends, and not worry IF you get and award or not; then yes! However, IF you're thinking of competing in order to get feed back, or "pats on the back" by way of awards, then I'd recommend caution. As nice as it is to win something, building for contests and worrying about what "others" will think of your effort can suck mo
  14. In lieu of being able to get the decal film liquid Mark referred to, you can overcoat (airbrush or spray can, preferably) the entire decal sheet with any enamel/lacquer clear gloss to act as a carrier and binder. Just remember that you'll now have to trim EACH decal right up to its edge as the entire decal sheet is one big clear film. I'm not aware of any 1/18 aftermarket decal sheets available as it's an odd scale for aircraft....the other alternative is to use the decal sheet to make stencils for the markings and paint them on the model. Best of luck, either way! Gil
  15. Here's the link to Scalemates.....https://www.scalemates.com/ However, at a glance I didn't see anything that referred to kit instructions. But, there were a lot of other useful/interesting items you may want to check out. And here's a link to a FB page dedicated to model kit instructions...https://www.facebook.com/groups/1799572063605135 However, it appears the FB page may simply be a forum to facilitate modelers helping each other out, as opposed to a repository of instructions to draw from. Anyway, best of luck! Gil
  16. Yes....I have a ponce wheel with several different sizes of "rivets", depending on the wheel selected. It's not too hard to control IF you go SLOW and use no more than medium pressure. You do have to watch it when you reach a curve though! I thought about adding more rivet lines....but that simply multiplied my chances of screwing them up, so I kept them to a minimum. Gil
  17. For what it's worth, I'm having the same problem tonight.....it won't load and open, so it's not just you. Gil
  18. Nick; I borrowed a buddy's "home made" vac machine that had a working surface of about 18"x24". I heated the plastic sheets in my oven and used my shop vac for the vacuum source for the platen. The "machine" itself is a simple wooden box, sealed, with holes in the top and a hole in the side for the vacuum hose/attachment. It used 2 sets of aluminum window frame material to make the frames to hold the plastic sheet between, which was then clamped in place with office style clamps (2 per side). Not overly sophisticated, but it worked quite well! Gil
  19. And here's how it looks when done.....seems the site is limiting how many I can post now... This model represents an A-18 Shrike II of the 13th Attack Squadron @1937.... Question, comments, and critiques welcome! Gil
  20. First, the most obvious question....WHY? Well, I had an itch to try my hand at a full scratchbuild, having only done heavy conversions with only portions scratchbuilt til now. Second, I love the Golden Age of aviation of the '30s and many of those planes are still not available in 1/48, even in vac or resin. So, I settled on trying to build the Curtiss A-18 Shrike II, a little known twin-engine attack planes from the mid 30s, figuring it's very unlikely to ever be produced "for" me. Only a handful were produced due to Depression era funding and the fast paced changes to aviation at that tim
  21. Very cool camo scheme and interesting build! Good job on overcoming the engineering deficiencies! That's one of those "paper airplanes" I've never seen before. Thanks for sharing! Gil
  22. Here's some of mine.... From the big 1/24 P-51B Mustang all the way down to the 1/48 B-47 (except for the sub), a display of my 1/48 Vacuform builds The vacuform category in the contest (my Japanese Nell bomber) I believe this was a preproduction build of the new 1/32 Lancaster on display Lovely build of the Cutty Sark One of the club build entries Pretty prewar Kingfisher Hellcat in a cool drone scheme Jerry wells 1/72 drone control Invader D-Day box diorama Yet another D-Day dio
  23. What did you use to paint the exhaust pipes? Very authentic look! Gil
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