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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. ghodges

    A Rare B1rd

    Wow! That is a rare bird! And those pics date from '73? That hopped up Nova(?) sure looks like it's the CURRENT style, and not someone's middle-aged flashback! Thanks for posting! GIL
  2. You're not brain dead, but the glue fumes have gotten to you! There is no 1/48 C-119 (resin, vac, or otherwise) or I'd have one! In fact, I finally tracked down a reference book on the C-82/C-119 at VB in preparation for the possibility of having to scratchbuild it in 1/48. Now if I could just find some good scale plans (1/144 or 1/72) to enlarge....And, unfortunately, I don't see Trumpeter coming to the rescue (at least not until I scratchbuild mine!). GIL
  3. No, it belongs to Ken Belisle.

  4. Ahhh....one of Steve Ritchie's F-4's! Nice! GIL
  5. You've finally "excorsized" your Demons! Nice model! It amazes me how graceful and attractive 30's British biplanes are, compared to their ungainly multi-engined beasts! Thanks for posting! GIL
  6. ghodges

    Vote

    It would be a nice space saver...... GIL
  7. Same here....I had two Azteks at different times. BOTH of them developed a clog (or problem) inside the body, which cannot be disassembled.....I gave up and went back to Badger also. At least you can break it down to the tiniest component and repair/replace what needs to be fixed. GIL
  8. How do I find the patience???? I drink until I don't care anymore! Actually, as mentioned above, the Future goes a long way towards giving a smooth surface for any NMF. It can save you a BUNCH of polishing! However, IF you're not careful and get a "run" in the Future; you're back to square one! The other half of the battle is to start with a good kit (like this Tamiya Mustang). There is precisely 1/8in. length of superglue/baby powder "filler" in a 1/16in gap in the front of the left wingroot. All other seams needed no filler! The last secret is to be willng to experiment. Try vario
  9. I'm doing "American Beauty". The red/yellow tail striping is all decal, so there'll be LOTS of clear film on the tail planes/vertical fin! Everywhere else I can trim away most of it and minimize the potential problems. We'll see....... GIL
  10. I think you can see the differences between the fuselage and the wings in the pics above. The entire model was sealed/primed with Future, then sprayed with Alclad Aluminum. Next, I masked off the wings and rubbed SNJ silver powder onto the fuselage and ailerons. The final finish will have the flaps done in Metalizer aluminum, and I'll probably lightly flat coat a few fuselage panels to add tonal variation. In any case, I'm hoping the above finish will convey the "painted" wings and the NMF fuselage and parts the P-51 was delivered in. Oh yes, I also used some plastic sheet and corrected the ma
  11. Interesting Clare! I've never had that happen. Did you apply anything to the finish after decaling? In my experience, if you do that then the finish changes slightly everywhere EXCEPT under the decal, making the NMF behind the decal look different than the rest of the model; which at a glance looks like silvering, or that the "clear" didn't disappear. I've got the SNJ on my Mustang, so I'll go take some pics and start another topic soon! Cheers! GIL
  12. SO they let you into the "offices"......interesting considering all of the OTHER mags they published! By the way, I forgot to mention that the yellow flashing around the canopy hump and on top of the fuselage is NOT on the Victory decal sheet; and I can't even tell from the instructions if #7 had that trim on the plane. Oddly, all of the other planes do have yellow trim in that area, and it's provided for them. I don't know if it's an oversight on the decal makers part, or if the TA-4J simply didn't have that area painted. I just didn't like the side flashing going back and ending at th
  13. That's sharp! I particularly like the multi-shading of the metallics. If you don't tell folks they'll never know it was a restoration job! Congrats on a very nice build! GIL
  14. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
  15. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
  16. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
  17. Thanks for the kind words Ken! "Stale Modeler" was good for its time, but thankfully that time has passed! I'm still looking to meet Jordan Ross, one of the more prolific contributors to SM when I started reading it in the 70's. He could build ANYTHING! I know he's an IPMS member, but I've never bveen able to track him down. I did however run into Mr. Hodgedon, who did all of those great 1/32 dios (they usually had footprints on the wings) in the mag. We had a laugh commiserating about what it was like to deal with those cheap SOB's that ran SM! He couldn't get paid and he was able to go to th
  18. This is the 1/48 Monogram OA-4M/Falcon vac conversion. I built it so I wouldn't feel guilty when I bought the new Clasic Airframes kit! The decals are from the Victory Productions sheet, and went down with no problems. This model has more "dings" than my 10yr old car! But, it's done and I can move on to the new kit without feeling guilty! Also, it'll look good enough for my Skyhawks display table in VB! Comments and critiques welcome! GIL
  19. I've seen the Mattell vacs go for anywhere from $30-$100. I paid $50 for mine almost 30 yrs ago, so I guess that would equate to $100 in new millinium $....and I'd have to say that since I've built so many "trashy" kits over the years I've gotten $1000 worth of use out of it! If you do find one, make sure the pump handle is in good condition. Don't be too concerned if the vacuum presure seems a bit low. Smearing some Vaseline around the interior of the piston housing will help seal any leaks as well as improve the movement of the machanisms. As pointed out above, you don't really need any
  20. To add a couple of fine points to Clare's technique: 1) wear gloves! When you pull the plastic down over the form it will "drape" over the part, but not be very tight around the bottom edges. This may be ok, but if not, you need to "pinch" the plastic in around the bottom (but BELOW the form) in order to define the bottom edges better. The plastic will still be quite warm (or HOT) so gloves will prevent you from burning your fingers as you manipulate the plastic. 2) Another way to do this is to use a "top board" over the plastic sheet you're heating. The top board (any stiff material
  21. That Vixen's quite the vamp Paul! I've always thought that was one of the better looking British jets, although I've often wondered if those offset cockpits/canopies weren't the product of some engineers that had a pint or two too many! Way to stick with it, persevere, and achieve victory. Winston would be proud! GIL
  22. 1) You don't have to use superglue to place cockpit PE. It's not really under any "stress" so you can use white glue, epoxy, or even Future to stick them in place. That lessens the chance of getting something stuck where you don't want it! 2) If the parts you're using need to be bent or rolled, annealing them will make them more "pliable" and take the spring out of the metal. Anneal them by setting the parts (the whole tree) onto the burner on the stove while it's on med-high. When the metal discolors it's done. 3) Paint them like any other parts, but be aware that sometimes the pain
  23. I've got 3 on the bench at the moment. First is the1/48 Monogram/Falcon vac conversion of the TA-4J Skyhawk. Why? Because Uncle Jules (Classic Airframes) was releasing HIS Ta-4's and I wanted to avoid feeling guilty (and I wanted another A-4 for my VB display tables!). It's ready to decal (Blue ANgels #7), so it will be in VB! Second is the vacuform 1/48 F3D Skynight. Why? Because the Czech Model kit is no easier (just finished one) AND I had the reference material out....BUT, mine will have the wings folded/flaps down; and will be in GSB finish from the late '40s! I'm gonna try to g
  24. That's a beast of a model. I remember I sold mine because if I ever built it my kids would have used it a s a ride toy.... You have a GREAT handle on producing modern large aircraft! You must really rack up the "mileage" when it comes to dressing seams! Please post more pics (old or not) of your nice models if ya get the chance! Cheers! GIL
  25. Ain't nothin' wrong with that! I like your faded OD. Did you post-shade, pre-sahde??? How did the glass go together? Great looking early 'Stang! Thanks for sharing! GIL
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