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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. Very true! You'd think that if they had F2Fs, then F3F-1's would be expected. However, since those planes were all built in very limited numbers it may just not have happened. Hope you can find the reference that you need , but my (admitidly) limited sources didn't show anything. Best of luck! GIL
  2. You may be out of luck Bob.... I've seen references in books to F3F-1's serving on the Wasp, Saratoga, amd Ranger (black, white, and green tails), but no other cariers (and no, my resources are not exhaustive!). It may well be that the Enterprise and Yorktown didn't get any until the -2/3's were in service. Remember, the Yorktown class carriers weren't commisioned until the latter half of the 30's, which coincides with the latter part of the Grumman F3F service. That said, if you do want something different, I did see a Marine F3F-1 that would be a bit different (red/white/blue rudde
  3. James makes a great point! Learning to judge models (ala IPMS style) isn't voodoo, it's just learning the system. 1) you have NO friends OR enemies in the room! Integrity rules! 2) You judge BASICS of each model. You're judging the quality of the construction and finish; NOT the accuracy of the model or the knowledge of the builder. You'll find that once you see how things are judged it'll give you a lot of ideas of how to improve your own builds. Take James' advice! GIL
  4. Basics, basics, basics! 1) Make sure your seams are evenly filled and any lost panel lines are rescribed (evenly and neatly). Be sure to rescribe across leading edges of the wings. Beware of sanding flat spots across oval or round sections (fuselage top, gun barrels, gear legs, etc.) 2) Alignment: be sure things are symetrical from side to side. Your angles can be slightly off IF they're the same on both sides (but ya have to be in the ballpark!). Consistency is the key here. See that the model sits level. Yea, a real pane may not, but the kit is DESIGNED to sit level if you build it pr
  5. The canopy sits wrong because the I glued brace inside the vac canopy too low, and it rests on the fuselage, propping up the rear of the canopy instead of allowing it to "drape" properly. Oh well......that's just another reason it's a shelf sitter! GIL
  6. The following is NOT Iwata specific... A clean airbrush is next to godliness to paraphrase...but (if you see the lack of organization on our benches) practicality often prevails! I've had 4-5 different brands of brushes over 30 years time. NONE have ever "died" from being too dirty. In fact, a couple "died" from excessive breakdown and the loss or damage of a seal! The direct consequence of a dirty airbrush is poor paint delivery. If you're not getting the results you want from your brush, and you've tried every "control" (paint viscosity, air pressure, water vapor control, etc.); th
  7. Sharp eyes Clare! YES, and it's MY fault! As I attempted to flat coat the black lines of the "HL" it bled over onto the clear decal. The NMF just beside it is slightly shinier. If I'd have left those decals alone it might have remained invisible. There are some areas where you can find the clear decal on the NMF (besides my screw-ups), but you have to look VERY hard to do so, and get the lighting angles just right. By the way, I couldn't make a good comparison between the Alclad and the SNJ as to how the clear decal areas were "absorbed". The decals on the wings have almost NO extra clear
  8. Finished the Mustang. Go to the a/c topic section to see more pics. Cheers! GIL
  9. This is the 1/48 Tamiya Mustang kit. I built it just to soothe my bruised fingers after doing a vac, vac conversion, and a low-end low-pressure injection molded kit. I needed a break! The model is mostly OOTB except for a few placards in the cockpit, an Ultracast seat, and a vac canopy. I drilled out the kit exhausts, added hypo tube gun barrels, and MV colored lenses under the wing for the IFF lights. The markings are from Life Like decals. They are thin and require some care when placing as they don't like to be repositioned on the model. For the most part the
  10. ghodges

    A Rare B1rd

    Wow! That is a rare bird! And those pics date from '73? That hopped up Nova(?) sure looks like it's the CURRENT style, and not someone's middle-aged flashback! Thanks for posting! GIL
  11. You're not brain dead, but the glue fumes have gotten to you! There is no 1/48 C-119 (resin, vac, or otherwise) or I'd have one! In fact, I finally tracked down a reference book on the C-82/C-119 at VB in preparation for the possibility of having to scratchbuild it in 1/48. Now if I could just find some good scale plans (1/144 or 1/72) to enlarge....And, unfortunately, I don't see Trumpeter coming to the rescue (at least not until I scratchbuild mine!). GIL
  12. No, it belongs to Ken Belisle.

  13. Ahhh....one of Steve Ritchie's F-4's! Nice! GIL
  14. You've finally "excorsized" your Demons! Nice model! It amazes me how graceful and attractive 30's British biplanes are, compared to their ungainly multi-engined beasts! Thanks for posting! GIL
  15. ghodges

    Vote

    It would be a nice space saver...... GIL
  16. Same here....I had two Azteks at different times. BOTH of them developed a clog (or problem) inside the body, which cannot be disassembled.....I gave up and went back to Badger also. At least you can break it down to the tiniest component and repair/replace what needs to be fixed. GIL
  17. How do I find the patience???? I drink until I don't care anymore! Actually, as mentioned above, the Future goes a long way towards giving a smooth surface for any NMF. It can save you a BUNCH of polishing! However, IF you're not careful and get a "run" in the Future; you're back to square one! The other half of the battle is to start with a good kit (like this Tamiya Mustang). There is precisely 1/8in. length of superglue/baby powder "filler" in a 1/16in gap in the front of the left wingroot. All other seams needed no filler! The last secret is to be willng to experiment. Try vario
  18. I'm doing "American Beauty". The red/yellow tail striping is all decal, so there'll be LOTS of clear film on the tail planes/vertical fin! Everywhere else I can trim away most of it and minimize the potential problems. We'll see....... GIL
  19. I think you can see the differences between the fuselage and the wings in the pics above. The entire model was sealed/primed with Future, then sprayed with Alclad Aluminum. Next, I masked off the wings and rubbed SNJ silver powder onto the fuselage and ailerons. The final finish will have the flaps done in Metalizer aluminum, and I'll probably lightly flat coat a few fuselage panels to add tonal variation. In any case, I'm hoping the above finish will convey the "painted" wings and the NMF fuselage and parts the P-51 was delivered in. Oh yes, I also used some plastic sheet and corrected the ma
  20. Interesting Clare! I've never had that happen. Did you apply anything to the finish after decaling? In my experience, if you do that then the finish changes slightly everywhere EXCEPT under the decal, making the NMF behind the decal look different than the rest of the model; which at a glance looks like silvering, or that the "clear" didn't disappear. I've got the SNJ on my Mustang, so I'll go take some pics and start another topic soon! Cheers! GIL
  21. SO they let you into the "offices"......interesting considering all of the OTHER mags they published! By the way, I forgot to mention that the yellow flashing around the canopy hump and on top of the fuselage is NOT on the Victory decal sheet; and I can't even tell from the instructions if #7 had that trim on the plane. Oddly, all of the other planes do have yellow trim in that area, and it's provided for them. I don't know if it's an oversight on the decal makers part, or if the TA-4J simply didn't have that area painted. I just didn't like the side flashing going back and ending at th
  22. That's sharp! I particularly like the multi-shading of the metallics. If you don't tell folks they'll never know it was a restoration job! Congrats on a very nice build! GIL
  23. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
  24. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
  25. I've had better luck with decals directly over Alaclad than over any other NMF! You should have no problems....just go easy with the decal solvents (as on any other nmf). By the way, I'm about to see how SNJ powder does on top of Alclad aluminum (the fuselage of a P-51D). Cheers! GIL
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