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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. And last of all.... The 3 above show the various detail parts that were scratchbuilt. Sheet plastic, brass and plastic tubing and rod, as well as various pe parts and spare parts were cobbled together to "git 'er done". The sanding and priming (and sanding and priming, and...) stage. Note the piece of sponge used to plug the hatch opening. The final wing fold detail parts added towards the end of the assembly sequence. All that's left is to brush paint them DSB! By the way, there seems to be about a 5 image limit to posts (for future reference). As stated above all comments/crtiques are welcome. Cheers! GIL
  2. Continueing..... The first 3 pics show how the cockpit was made from sheet plastic, spare PE, and spare resin parts. The next one shows the assembled and painted cockpit. The last one shows the vac canopy masked and ready for installation. Note the open canopy hatch. GIL
  3. The forum wouldn't let me put all of the pics I wanted in one post, so here's some in progress pics: The 3 pics above show how the intakes/exhausts were made and installed. The 2 above show the basic wing assemblies and the wing-fold bulkhead structure. GIL
  4. This is the old White Eagle 1/48 vacuform kit. I picked it up for less than $5 a couple of years ago at the 10,000 kit sale in NC. Having built the Czech Master Skynight earlier this summer (commission job), I decided to tackle this for myself while I had all of the reference materials out. Overall, this was NO more difficult than the injection kit; with the addition of the work all vacs need to prepare them for building. The intakes/exhausts had to be scratchbuilt, but then their fit was less work than the CM kit! The same held true for much of the project. Many things had to be built or pirated from the spares box, but I didn't really have to do much extra filling and sanding in compparison. The only other difference was that I decided to fold the wings and drop the flaps (for that more "candid look" ), but that only meant the addition of 2 bulkheads, 6 detail parts, and the support strut for each side. The support struts were made from plastic rod with pieces of plastic insulation from a length of wire cut and slipped onto them I also decided to opt for the "early" F3D version in overall gloss Dark Sea Blue. I used a small bottle of Testors dark blue and added about 5 drops of gloss black, mixing both in a standard MM mixing jar. It was cut with lacquer thinner and airbrushed on until I got the blue-black I wanted. My interpretation of '48-53 Navy DSB is pretty wide; some being almost black while others have a sea-green/gray cast. This mixture allows you to add coats until you get the hue you like. By the way, I use a different mixture for the more grayish DSB. Also, there is some countershading on the model, but it's difficult to get it to show up in pics The markings are from the CM kit. The interesting twist to that was that CM gives you 2 LEFT side squadron flashes! I didn't realize this until I started to apply the second one on the right and realized it would be upside down! The solution was simple enough: I cut a new one from solid bright yellow decal film. The CM decals worked well overall, especially the stencils. The borderless stars/bars came from the spares box. The wingtips and fin cap were painted MM bright yellow (over a coat of aluminum). The wingtip lights are clear red/green pieces of plastic sanded to shape and polished. The position lights on the top and bottom were made by Premier and are out of production to my knowledge. And, the final product! One final thought....man does GSB show EVERY little white speck of dust and "stuff" that gets into the finish! Maybe it's time to invest in a spray booth.....Cheers! Comment and critiques welcome! GIL
  5. ghodges

    190d Progress...

    Sweet 'pit! The main panel is especially crisp. It's rare for me to be able to do a long stint at the bench like you did these days. Even if I have the time, it seems that I just don't have the patience for more than about 3-4 hours tops. Hope you can make the same great progress on the rest of the model. I look forward to seeing it done! GIL
  6. Cute! I admire anyone with the talent to draw. I have trouble drawing a straight line, WITH a ruler! GIL
  7. I think you're too hard on yourself! I'm really impressed with the "scale" look to the water....not at all what I expected by your description (napkin=water??) but it worked really well! I also like the chipping you applied. I understand the lack of motivation towards the end of a project, especially if it doesn't meet the expectations you had when you started. However, I think you succeeded better than you think, at least in my opinion! Thanks for posting! GIL
  8. Wow! That's a very pretty build! I especially like the way you wore off part of the wing walks. The weathering looks spot-on to me; not too heavy and not too light. Congrats on a very nice model! Thanks for posting! GIL
  9. ghodges

    Pilots

    I don't know of any one website that would have that info, but it can be found at various sites (per era) and in various books of course. Are there any particular pilot types/eras that you're having trouble finding? GIL
  10. ghodges

    1903 Wright Flyer

    Personally, I like the coloring...it looks dead-on to me! And, since you were able to rig that puppy, you can tackle anything with 2 wings with confidence! Thanks for posting! GIL
  11. Thanks for explaination. It sounds like an interesting way to use clear coats to add weathering and character! Cheers! GIL
  12. Looks fine to me! I particualrly like the wood finish on your struts and your prop. Obviously, the judges did too! Thanks for posting! GIL
  13. Very pretty! What did you use for your bleached linen? Thanks for posting! GIL
  14. It never ceases to amaze me how many WWII airplanes I'm NOT familiar with. Nice model of a more obscure type! Thanks for posting and congrats on a great build! GIL
  15. It was my understanding that the door edges were painted red to be easier to spot as "down" when the a/c was in the landing pattern, as well as to make them a bit more visiable when crawling around under the a/c. I've never seen the interior edges (mating surfaces) also painted red. The exception would be the entire interiors of flap wells and speed brake wells; which werre painted to alert other a/c in the formation that those items were being deployed. Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Cheers! GIL
  16. ghodges

    Libery Bell 7

    Nicely done Jeff! Something not seen every day, and I particualrly like the way you displayed it. Thanks for posting! GIL
  17. Check out many of the on-line shops for Aeromaster and Superscale deals. They made the most USN 50's stuff. Superscale (or old Microscale) made sheets of plain white/black letters and numbers in several sizes and scales. They also made modex sheets (Navy, Marines, etc), as well as sheets of stars/bars; with and without the red stripes. You can use those sheets in tandem to make up serial numbers, squadron markings, and plane numbers that you might not find on a standard decal sheet. If you can't find those, try your local hobby shop for dry transfer lettering. Look in the TRAIN department for Woodland Scenics letters. They make many different sizes/fonts/colors of letters that you can use as a decal, or as a paint mask. If your LHS can't help you, try a local art supply store or architecture supply store for the dry transfer lettering. If you can't find a specific sheet for your subject, the toughest part will be squadron patches/logos. There are ways to scan them, resize them, and then print them onto decal paper. Although it sounds complicated, it's easier than freehand painting! Best of luck! GIL
  18. ghodges

    Aircraft Support

    If you're interested in 1/48 stuff, you might check out the Gasoline (French??) line of vehicles. They make a lot of things that you don't see here in the states, though I'm not sure how "modern" their line is. Best of luck! GIL
  19. Yet another problem solved by "more hose"...... SB
  20. I picked up the new "Mig-17 Walkaround" book in the LHS today and thumbed through it specifically looking at the nose profiles and associated captions in the book. I too could see what you point out above. The only reference made to anything different was the radar(?) which required the blade antenna on the top of the nose. Most of those planes seem to have the -"lim" designator, for whatever that's worth. I didn't see any direct reference in the pics, but I didn't read any of the text either. My best guess is that this was a limited modification, perhaps by some of the Soviet Block AF's9 most of the pics show Bulgarian, Polish Czech birds, etc.), and not by the "factory"; requiring slightly reshaped sheet metal on top. If this was a "field mod" that was never really sanctioned by the MiG folks then it might have never made any of the "official" drawings, which would lead to it being missed in most official references. Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Best of luck! GIL
  21. Perhaps I fall into the category of a lot of American modelers who really couldn't care less about the Draken.... That said, I hope that they sell a TON of them! I've heard it's a very nice kit and most everyone seems to be very happy with it. I'm guessing that the "world" market is there for the Draken (and yes, it is a COOL lookin' plane!) so I'm hoping that with good sales (and profits) the next release will peak my interest a bit more. As for the specific mod you're looking for....it sounds like the perfect thing for the after-market folks. Cheers! GIL
  22. Fotios is an EXCELLENT builder! You can hardly go wrong following his example! GIL
  23. There are 3 sources for pics/profiles/color profiles. There's the Ginter book on the Banshee. It's one of his early works so the pics are a bit grainy and the side views are "crude". The better 2 are the "Banshee in Action" and the "USN Carrier Air Units, 1946-56"; both from Squadron Signal. The Air Units book may be out of production. Those both have some pics and several color profiles of silver Banshees. By the way, if you opt for the gray version of the -3/4 Banshee, then look for the later edition "USN Carrier Air Units, 1957-67". It has plenty of the gray/white late model Banshee color profiles. Best of luck! GIL
  24. Yes, but it wasn't a true NMF. It was actually a paintied aluminum finish as the USN couldn't allow NMF due to salt water corrosion in their carrier environment. The debate (IMO) is whether or not the planes were actually PAINTED Aluminum (ala like the Correguard leading edges on other USN planes); OR if the NMF was given a heavy CLEAR COAT as corosion protection. The latter idea would account for some differing panel tints seen on some USN a/c. Either way, I think the solution for modelers is easy; ALCLAD! My one objection to Alclad is that it looks like a "painted" NMF when compared to MM Metalizer or SNJ polished aluminum. It photographs like NMF, but it doesn't quite pull it off for your eyes. However, this is PEFECT for those 50's USN aluminum jets (Banshees, FJ-2/3 Furys, Cutlasses, and the occasional Panther). By the way, to my knowledge only the late model -3/4 Banshees had the silver finishes. I've never seen the earlier -2 Banjo's (Korean War vintage) in that schme. Cheers! GIL
  25. ghodges

    1/48 T-28s

    I'd buy a NEW T-28! And you guys know me, I've already built the old Monogram kit once, and will do so again if I have to. I have little to no hesitation in tackling vacs and resin kits and scoff (ha-ha) at low presuure injection molded items. That said, I also frequently grab a Tamigawavellogram kit just to give my bleeding fingers a week or three to heal some.... The T-28 has a lot of attraction to American modelers. I'm not sure how much appeal it would have to Europeans and Asians. It can built it bright USN trainer colors, USAF NMF, and in COIN camo schemes. A new mold kit would need to take into account the early engine/cowl/prop features vs. the later model features; and the tail would need be different for the Navy C's vs. the USAF D's. This might mean a mish-mash fuselage approach like Hasagawa has used on their P-40 kits. The problem here is that it's more likely that someone like Classic Airframes or Special Hobby would do the kit instead of Monogram or Hasagawa; so the fit of those components could be problimatical. Some may ask why Monogram doesn't simply "update" and retool their original molds? This is similar to what Monogram tried with the old Aurora molds they bought in the 70's. Evidently the steel molds were so hardened from use over the years that it was very difficult to retool them; and that made it even more expensive than anticipated. The same could be said for the old 1960 era T-28 molds (presumably). That, combined with the fact that Revell/Monongram has almost sworn off new a/c kits would seem to make this a no-go. I'll put off building my 1/48 T-28A/B for a couple of years yet. Maybe someone will do a new tool molding of the Trojan. It's safe to say that we're living in the Golden Age of kitting. We're having things released in injection mold that we would've never anticipated 10-20yrs ago! Cheers! GIL
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