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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. ghodges

    Hasegawa Val

    Looks great! Your canopy framework looks pretty sharp. What method did you use for masking...tape it yourself, a set of adhesive masks? Thanks for sharing! GIL
  2. ghodges

    Cowl Flaps

    Which Corsair kit and what scale are you building? In this case, size may very well matter! GIL
  3. Excellent! Thanks for the tutorial! GIL
  4. Impressive! They aso show the big advantage auto builders have over other builders....you can really cram a case full! Thanks for posting! GIL
  5. SWEET Zero! Those are also some very interesting markings that aren't seen very often. Thanks for sharing and congrats on a beautiful build! GIL
  6. Try again Marko! I'd realy like to see your model. Thanks! GIL
  7. The black box w/white text is the pilot/crew chief info and goes immediately below the windscreen on the left side. It is visible on the profle. What's IS going to disappear is that black text data block (on a OD plane), which goes in the same general vicinity. Though it's not shown on the profiles, he best guess for the black "T" is that it goes on the bottom of the cowl lip, so that you can read it standing in front of the a/c (and tell that it's a/c "T" w/o seeing the side codes). This was a regular practice, even if not standardized in every unit. Hope this helps! GIL
  8. Check out the Hyperscale.com "plane trading" forum. There's a guy there posting regularly for the last week or so with headlights. These could be used for cars or armor (or whatever). He has several different sizes and styles, including those with that distintive cross-hatched glass that's so indicative of headlight lenses. Be prepared to pay though, they're not cheap, especially after adding in the postage! But if ya gotta have realistic headlights......Best of luck! GIL
  9. After a bit more research, it seems no one in the US carries the Falcon line. According to their website, you can order their stuff from Hannants or Aeroclub in the UK. Short of that, you'll have to trust to luck with a vendor. GIL
  10. Falcon vacuforms makes a "triple conversion" set in 1/72 that has the FJ-3 Fury fuselage; as well as a C-2 Greyhound and an AD-5W conversion. Falcon vacs are pretty good, and generally fit well. If you can't find someone who carries the Falcon line of conversions, try ordering directly from them in New Zealand! Hope this helps. Gil
  11. Can't see a crimp in any of them anymore. What are you using for your hose connectors? GIL
  12. ghodges

    New Member

    Absolutley lovely work Maffe! Glad to have you aboard and I look forward to seeing more of your work! Keep 'em coming when ya can! GIL
  13. ghodges

    Sea King Aew

    Good job! It's nice to know that there's a technique you can fall back on when there''s no "aftermarket" available for your purpose! I always get a kick out of old school builds! Thanks for sharing! GIL
  14. There's NO way there have been more of those than red/white striped bottom Dora-D-9's built! In fact, was there any other scheme ever on the Doras? SB
  15. That is a GORGEOUS Tony! I know what you mean about things going right, but I'm willing to bet your skills had a LOT to do with that! Thanks for posting! GIL
  16. If it is the IL-2 you want to build, then the AM kit IS the best! And, if you shop around (though you may have to hit vendors as some are out of production), you can find several different releases and versions. GIL
  17. Nick: Absolutely fantasitic research! It's a shining example of how IPMS members help each other. Marko: I'm here to give 2 pieces of advice, based on your identifying yourself as a newer member. First, take Nick's info and run with it! Short of a specific photo of your aircraft, it's probably the closest you'll come to finding the bur#. Second, unless YOU personally need to have it absolutely correct (number-wise) for your own satisfaction; don't worry too much about it. I've built the 1/48 AM F3F-3, and own the AM F3F-1. I'm guessing that your F3F-2 kit, like the others, has enough small numbers to enable you to build any of the F3F-2 airframes you desire; so coming up with the actual numbers themselves is not a problem. You should be able to build one within the number ranges quoted by Nick. I searched all of the my F3F references but had no luck finding a picture of the one you want to model, so I can't add to Nick's research. The only other advice I wanted to pass along was to look at pics of other VF-6 a/c closely to see if the stripes, chevrons, and bands might have been outlined in white. This can be particularly tough to see against the willow green colors (less contrast). This IS (imo) a color detail that might be picked up on by other modelers/judges; but I've NEVER known of anyone (especially in judging) to worry about the authenticity of the tail code. Since you're new, you might be worried about getting it all "correct". From an IPMS judging standpoint, worry about getting those tail codes on without any silvering and you'll be home free. No one looks for correct numbers in beareau numbers; they just look to see that they're applied and finished well. Hope this helps! Best of luck! GIL
  18. I've built some of the other Airfix 1/48 kits and while none of them have the same rep as Monogram, Hasagawa, or Tamiya; they're certainly buildable. This kit is their 2nd generation of 1/48 stuff. It's not as old as the late 70's releases (like the Bf-109F). I believe it was put out initially in the late 90's. That said, it's still not considered as being on a par with other releases from a decade ago. As pointed out above, the gear/tire assemblies are the real beef I had with the kit. The rest involves fit issues which almost every kit has, though this one has more than others. My understanding is that IF you're a Spitfire boffin, this kit might be up your alley. It has a lot of good things (correct gull wing on the bottom, flat canopy, Watts prop, etc.); as well as the parts to do the later MkI and early MkII's applicable to the BoB. And, since it shares sprues with the other Airfix Spits, there are even more parts you can donate to your spares box or other Spit kits. If you're looking for a Tamigawavellogram type of build, pass on this and go for a Hasgawa or Tamiya Spitfire. Even the old Revell MkII Spitfire is an easier build, IF you can live with a little less accuracy in the airframe. If you already have this Airfix MkI in the stash, build it but be prepared to put some elbow grease into it. I did it merely as an exercise for the Hyperscale group build, and had little motivation besides that. Someone with Jack's enthusiasm could turn it into a real labor of love with a little extra TLC. Cheers! Gil
  19. ghodges

    D.520 Finished...

    Thanks for the info Andy! The results certainly justify the extra effort. I don't know about you, but the one time I did a camo that took an hour and a half of airbrushing it left a "dent" in the tip of my trigger finger that took a day and a half to go away! Maybe it's time to get a better airbrush.........Cheers! GIL
  20. ghodges

    D.520 Finished...

    That camo is spot on! :P Yea, I couldn't resist.... Actually could you elaborate on your airbrush, air source, panting pressures, paints, thinners, etc. as to how you achieved such precision? Lovely model! GIL
  21. The album pics show the stamped metal panel/hood catch a bit better. What did you use to create the rivets for that panel, and also how'd you do the flanged bolt heads (or are those washers) between the panel and the radiator? Lastly, the bay brace looks like metal! Is it made from solder, or what? GIL
  22. Looks like you've done some cutting and grinding in the bay. Did you remove some molded initems? GIL
  23. Nice scheme! I love that "retro" Korean war look. GIL
  24. That sounds better than trying to blow the superglue back down into the tube! (Don't ask..... ) SB
  25. I'd like to suggest your save your butter tub lids. That's what I use to put my superglue onto and then "dip" out of. When the glue is dry you can flex the top and about 95% will crack off of the surface and you can use the lid some more. When it gets too much left on it that won't come off, use another butter tub lid. A larger surface like the lid also allows you the room to mix your thin superglue with powder (talcum or baby; your choice). That will make a good filler that doesn't dry rock hard like regular superglue. It also sands easier to a feather edge and is easier to rescribe over! Last of all, I advise you to stop spending money on expensive hobby shop superglues. They're ALL cyanocrylates. I get the most milage from the cheap "4 tubes for a buck" superglues at Walmart. You use them up before they can go bad, and you really only need to buy the regular type as you can make the thicker type by adding powder. I only use "gel" superglue for attaching landing gear and such. Anyway, that's my 2 drachmas! Cheers! GIL
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