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Posts posted by ghodges

  1. I've actually written a review of this model for Detail and Scale (future use, sometime). Here's a part of it that covers the "sticking" poiints.....and sorry for the length, but they're a lot of 'em!

    The biggest problems to be conquered with this kit are the fit of the intakes to the fuselage, the fit of the intake trunks to the inside of the intakes, the lack of dihedral in the wing, and the fit of the wing to the fuselage. I heartily recommend NOT following the kit instruction sequences and deviating in the following ways to correct these problems and get the best fit.

    Before gluing the fuselage halves together……

    The intake bleed air ramps and the intakes themselves need to be glued into and onto their fuselage halves. This allows you to work from the inside and the outside to get them to fit. I also recommend leaving out the resin fuselage bleed air vents on the tops of the intakes until after you’ve sanded the intakes on the fuselage, lest they be obliterated (like mine!). Try to “drop fit” them into place after the sanding is done to better preserve them.

    Czech Models molded the interior intake ducting as a large “Y” assembly which is intended to be glued to the wing bottom and then fit neatly up to the rear of the intakes when the wing is added. It does not work! The intake trunk mouths do not align well with the intakes AND they will interfere with the fit of the wing to the fuselage. The solution is to cut the Y apart, making two separate intake ducts. Then, each one can be individually fit to its intake, pressing and twisting to get the smoothest transition and fit. Note that the outer edges of the intake ducts inside the fuselage may still need some grinding and trimming to keep them from hitting against the tops of the main wheel wells and inhibiting the fit of the wing. Thinning down the top inner edges of the main wheel wells in the wing bottom may also be needed to get clearance between the two of them.

    One of the more trying problems is that the wing, as molded, is too flat; lacking proper dihedral. The limited run nature of the molding in between the main wheel wells, with the extra plastic there, makes it difficult to try to “bend” the wing in the center to give the wing dihedral. What’s needed is to GRIND out all of that plastic between the main gear wells (a motor tool really helps here!) and also to remove the plastic that spans the front and rear of the bottom wing center sections. That will give the bottom wing the flex needed to make the next step work.

    The outer main wheel well tops are separate parts. They can aid in setting some dihedral on the bottom wing by doing the following (using super glue): First, glue the inner edge to the main wheel well top and allow it to set securely. Next, while bending the wing upward, glue the outer end of the part to the wing. Doing this on both sides will give the bottom wing a modicum of dihedral. The wing tops can now be added, but don’t forget to first drill out the locating holes in the bottom wing for the bomb pylons and wingtip tanks!

    At this point, the instructions can be followed to install the cockpit tub, nose wheel well, exhaust can, and glue the fuselage halves together. I also recommend gluing the stabilizers in place, as these will serve as a check on fitting and aligning the wing. Also, don’t forget to add some nose weight!

    Even with all of the above adjustments, the fit of the wing assembly to the fuselage is problematic. The width of the fuselage tended to flatten out the wing and remove what dihedral had been set. I found that sanding each of the wing roots down allowed the wing to fit in place with the dihedral sustained and a pretty good fit along the wing roots.

    On the bottom of the model, the fit is much worse, especially at the front. The wing simply needs to be glued in place while maintaining the dihedral, keeping the good fit along the wing roots, and assuring that the wings are level as compared to the tail planes; and ignore the steps on the bottom at the front and the back. The step in the front was too large to even be ground down. Instead, a “ramp” of epoxy putty was built up to smoothly transition the wing front to the rear of the nose wheel well. The same thing was needed at the rear junction of the wing and fuselage, but to a lesser degree.

    Another anomaly to be mentioned is the lack of a traditional “axle” on the main landing gear. The small nub meant to serve as an axle will only hold the tire if it’s glued to the brake drum on the wheel (perhaps the maker’s intention). I recommend drilling and pinning each gear leg to create an axle for each tire. The fact that the brake drums are molded on the kit wheels instead of the gear legs means that IF you want to flatten the tires by sanding them, there is only one spot to do it properly!

    The nose gear, on the other hand, is more traditional in that it has an axle, although it’s actually too long and has to be trimmed shorter. It also seemed a tad on the flimsy side, and with weight added to the nose, I recommend shimming it with more thin sheet plastic or metal on the inside of the axle arm to strengthen it.

    After making the above adjustments, the kit can be finished out like any other one.

    GIL :cool:

  2. Noel:

    If anyone used the GSB format under #2 in Ralph's reply (and the Orlando FL club does), then people who enter their models group them together on the table instead of putting them in various "categories". There's no need to "hunt them down". They can then all be judged to arrive t a "consensus" for the group; or, the judges can pick one and judge it as being "representative" of the group. Either way, the MODELER gets ONE award for their work in that particular genre. That way, the number and costs of awards is held down as compared to a straight GSB competition.


    GIL :cool:

  3. The intakes were a challenge. They're molded as a "Y", but will NOT fit properly, so I cut the Y apart into separate trunks. That allowed me to get the best fit on each side. They also had to have their outer edges inside the fuselage ground down some so as to not interfere with the fit of the wings.


    GIL :cool:

  4. This was a difficult build because it's a limited run style kit. It does have some very nice resin and PE details, but very few locating pins, fair to poor fit, and you really need to deviate from the instructions to get the best results. The kit decals are one of the better items included, though I only used the data, stenciling, modexes, and stars. The nose art and others are from an aftermarket sheet. Here's a link to the in progress shots on Agapemodels if you want to see how it was built: https://www.agapemodelersforum.com/index.php?topic=23336.0



    I used AK metalics Aluminum for the overall finish and then did the varying panels with Alclad Dull Aluminum. The red is Testsors (small bottle) enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. I made the gun barrels from steel tubing.

    I'm happy with the result, but I can't really recommend this kit to others unless you have some experience with limited run kits, vacs, or resin kits. There's a lot of re-engineering and alterations needed to get the best result. Comments, questions, and critiques welcome, as always. Cheers!


    GIL :cool:

    • Thanks 1

  5. Screw diversity Nick......the "figures" argument is not what we're discussing, and has always been a weak argument for trying to be "inclusive". The P in IPMS is for plastic. We're a society that buys plastic parts in boxes and builds them. No one is saying that NO other medium should be allowed to be used in, on, or around a PLASTIC model. However, I do NOT think wooden, or even completely photo-etched (metal) models should be a part of us. Why do we disallow metal die-casts yet approve of pe kits? Makes no sense, creates confusion, and it's hypocritical.

    We're not discussing the diversity of building ANY genre of plastic kit; which I do embrace! I'm not suggesting that IPMSUSA should remain stagnant and not reach out to the emerging and growing group of PLASTIC modelers who build Gundams, Sci-fi, and other less "traditional" kits (up to this point). I am saying IPMSUSA needs to stop trying to desperately reach out to any one who glues anything together. We need to know who we are, embrace that, and concentrate on THAT group of people.

    But you have no worries....the NCC and Eboard embrace your point of view...not mine!


    GIL :cool:

  6. "Our" rules only apply to the IPMSUSA NATIONAL CONTEST at the yearly Nats convention. So the question is: What did the rules for the contest you attended say? THAT is where the answer lies.

    IPMUSA rules for the Nats are frequently used as guidelines and basic frameworks for most IPMS shows, but are in NO WAY binding on ANY local or regional contest. Each of those shows set their own rules.

    IPMSUSA has very lenient rules for defining "plastic models", which I personally disagree with. I agree with you in that we are a society for builders of plastic kits. While we can appreciate the craftsmanship applied to other mediums in modeling, it's not what WE do. However, the NCC makes the rules for the IPMSUSA Nats and they tend to be a bit more broad minded and inclusive (though I'm not sure a wooden ship model would be allowed in the CONTEST).

    Did the contest in question have any rules allowing or restricting kit composition?


    GIL :cool:

  7. Not sure they'd do it for free.....but perhaps for a nominal fee, or in exchange for reduced ad rates in the Journal? Their response would be: "what's it in for me"? If we can give them a solid answer to that question, then I think a deal could be worked to have the IPMSUSA logo and a link on their web page(s).

    As to general outreach.....I think IPMS needs to do some deep thinking and analysis as to identifying those most likely to be "joiners". After all, for the entire history of plastic modeling, only a very small minority have been outgoing enough, social enough, or "serious" enough to be interested in IPMS; even back when IPMS was almost the ONLY modeling group available. Only a small slice of the model buying public has ever thought of joining IPMSUSA or even a local club.

    Now we have to add in the complications and competition from on-line modeling "clubs" and pages. The social interaction that used to only be available at local meetings and shows is now readily available on-line. True...it's not face to face....but THAT may suit an even larger slice of the model buying public; the ones who weren't going to drive to meetings or shows in the first place. Heck, all of the manufacturing info, modeling material, and model pics on those pages, as well as all of the building tips available on You Tube and elsewhere have seriously devalued the Journal as a source for those things. In short; our "relevance" and benefit to modelers has been reduced. We not only have a limited interest to a minority of the model buying public, but even THOSE people have reason to ask "what can IPMSUSA give me that I don't already have"?

    The obvious answer is: local clubs and shows. However, THOSE are double edged swords....We're all familiar with the many stories of new visitors and members being scoffed at and derided at meetings and shows. We all know that IPMS has a reputation (not totally undeserved) of being a group of nit-pickers, accuracy freaks, and color Nazis. I believe that IPMS has made GREAT strides in the last 10-20 years to overcome those and other misnomers (like our not liking cars and sci-fi, etc.). But they ARE still out there, and I think if they are not addressed in a campaign from the TOP, they will continue to persist.

    That's the main reason why I support GSB as the future for our contests. I want to DE-EMPHASIZE competition, and in so doing cut way back on the nit-picking. I support the recent move by the Eboard to incorporate display space at EVERY Nats as a part of that. I also think someone needs to design a program that is given to every chapter that tells them why they need to take greater pains and make more effort to welcome ALL modelers of every genre, as well as to de-emphasize criticism, especially concerning accuracy. In short, IPMS should be sure all chapters are emphasizing the FUN of building, whatever that is to each individual member.

    As for why to join IPMSUSA? Well, once you have a local member, they're more likely to understand that their chapter is dependent to a degree on IPMSUSA, if only for insurance. Second, most all of them can recognize that the Journal IS one of the best modeling magazines around, especially for the money. It may or may not be a recruiting tool on its own, but it IS another solid benefit of being an IPMSUSA member. And third, most local members do recognize the need to be supportive of their club and and its parent organization just out of loyalty. If the club puts an active emphasis on joining IPMSUSA (but short of demanding it), then I think we'll get a higher percentage of the locals than we have now.

    Blindly reaching out to the modeling public is generally what we've always done, and it's never really worked. I estimate that only 20%-40% of most local club members are also IPMSUSA members. What if we could simply double that? That's where I'd start!


    GIL :cool:



  8. It seems that essentially the answer is yes.....Special Hobby has put the ICM plastic in their box...BUT....since the ICM kit was released as a Ju88A-5 (and A-4, I believe), and at least one of the SH releases is the Ju88D-2/4; there are differences. Here's a link to a review of the Special Hobby release. You can Google either one to find out more detailed info on any particular release.



    GIL 😛



  9. That's a really nice recommendation with a little bit of everything....some NMF, camo green topsides, colorful spinner and checkered nose, as well as the invasion stripes.

    Dave: What kit will you build? The key to picking your scheme may lie there. Most of the 1/32 P-51Ds have the fin filet. I believe only the new Revell 1/32 kit gives you the option of no filet OOTB, but that kit is currently difficult to get.  You'll need to find a scheme with the "filet" you want, OR remove the filet (not hard to do) if your scheme requires it (like Preddy's "Cripes A Mighty 3rd") and you don't have the Revell kit.

    The next consideration is do you want a NMF plane, a camo finish, or (as above) a combination of both? And lastly, do you want to paint full invasion stripes, or partial stripes? Full stripes were in place for a month or two after D-day. However, by the fall they were being painted out on the topsides, especially on camo bearing planes since they negated the camo.


    Decisions, decisions....Personally, my favortie has always been Preddy's....



    GIL :cool:

  10. Hi Oliver! I'm hoping one of the NCC Head Judges will chime in here soon to give a definitive answer. However, in my opinion as a national IPMS judge for 25yrs, If I understand you correctly, the answer will be no.

    The rules state that an entry must be the entire work of a single builder. If you enter a diorama where someone else besides yourself painted the figures in the diorama, then the diorama (as a whole, and that is how it is judged, on the "whole") is the work of you AND another. That, by definition means it's NOT the work of a single builder, and thus should be disqualified.

    Keep in mind that the reason and the "spirit" behind the rule is to keep a builder with a weak area (such as painting figures, in your case) from getting "expert help" in order to get a better result than they could achieve all by themselves. Thus, letting someone else paint the figures for your dio, especially in order to get better looking figures than you could do yourself, wouldn't be fair to everyone else who had to do all of the work on their own dios all by themselves.

    GIL :cool:

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