ghodges

My head spins just trying to keep track of the pics of all your WIPs. I can't imagine what it's like to actually have to remember what I was doing last and what's next when having so many kits going at once. You must be an organizational genius! Nice progress Duke! GIL

Don't worry Duke! Knowing Ron as I do, he was being sarcastic (or is facetious?). I can't think of any judge I know who really wants to find another thing to judge or split hairs over. However, we DO have to do all of that sanding/finishing/painting stuff if can be seen with the naked eye.... But then again, I don't want any form of "intake-tascope" to be used! Best quote I've seen in months: "If you can't see it, it doesn't count". Now THAT'S a modeling and judging philosophy I can live by! GIL

Well, when that does happen, it will only be used on one model.....because after that we other judges will be using it ON its owner! GIL

And exactly how will a judge ever know? As you can see by the one on the left, it doesn't show, and would be very hard to see even if you looked for it (and why would you?). As a judge, I don't care how a builder arrived at a neat solution (crisp paint/build), I only care IF it's a crisp paint and build. Who knows what little "tricks" that exist now that we never ever catch on to? GIL

Looks good! What did you use for the antenna lines? GIL

Wow! You're really cranking them out! Nice Hellcat! GIL

Thanks, I would, but it's so old (used the Otaki kit!) that I don't have pics of it anymore. GIL

There are a lot of planes from the 30's and 40's that used spats for the fixed gear legs (Stuka, Val, P-26, etc.). The kit instructions often tell you to assemble the tire WITH the spat, trapping the tire in it. That makes for a tough painting chore! A little minor surgery will help avoid that! A little "V" shaped cut to the bottom of the axle hole will allow you to slip the tire into place, with no one the wiser. Hope this helps! I felt I should post something actually usable after the ol' pit pic....... GIL

I've started building a Hobby Craft 1/48 P-26 Peashooter. I noticed it had some dial detail in the instrument panel depressions, but they were set down into the holes. I knew dry-brushing wouldn't work well, and then remembered I had a white China marker (grease pencil). I carved the tip to a point and that allowed me to reach into the dials and bring out the raised instrument details. Note: it WILL also get onto the insides of the hole around the edges, but that is easily touched up with a little black paint. A few drops of Future in the dials completes the job. I'm guessing this technique would work even better on a kit from Monogram, which usually has much better engraved detailing. Cheers! GIL

Luckily, the "odor" associated with this pic isn't able to waft through the screen.... The short story is I'm battling a staff infection in the ol' pit, and it's been sliced and diced a couple of times. So what do ya do when you have to change a bandage but you have NO medical tape in the house? Go for the gusto! Use your handy-dandy Tamiya tape! It worked perfectly; or at least long enough til I made it back to the doctor today. I have since purchased proper medical supplies, if only to preserve my supply of Tamiya tape. Does it hurt? Heck yea! Oh, and sorry about the nip-slip there.... GIL

There are some great ones there! Thanks for sharing! GIL

One of my favorite planes in one of my favorite markings (and I have my own on the shelf to prove it!). That looks great Ying. What did you use for the contrasting panel lines? GIL

Hope you guys have a record setting day and the weather cooperates for ya. Safe journies and a wish for a fun filled time for all! I'd be there if I was closer! GIL

Lovely NMF! Gil

Ahhh......a man after my own heart! However, I not only have a bin with those same drawers of parts (those are only for the ones I use most); I also have about 20 cigar boxes of spare parts, all divided into sub-categories (wheels and tires, props, piston engine parts, jet engine parts, clear parts, etc, etc.) Note that the parts bin is front and center containing cockpit stuff, ejection seats, guns, and actuators (the stuff I need "handy"). To the far right is my larger stash of spare parts in the cigar boxes, and even in a couple of old kit boxes and clear zip-lock baggies. As for the last time I used any of them? Almost every model I have requires something! It may be a better seat, new gear door actuators, a machine gun barrel...but they do get used more often than not! As the old saying goes....Waste not! Want not! Cheers! GIL

Yea, goes together like that with YOUR skills! That's a great looking -5 Zero-Zen! Kit markings, or aftermarket? GIL

I don't count the beers, I just stop when I know I can't make it back to the room, even if I crawl , or run out of money. Still, Omaha is shaping up to be a whale of a wingding! As for the "P" in IPMS going by the wayside................yea, and I don't think it's done anything for IPMS. I don't see it as having attracted any new members, or groups of members (paper model builders or wood ship builders, for example). There have always been gray areas in competition (metal figures in dioramas); but this has been due more to availability of what's needed than by choice. IF we want to continue to allow other "mediums" into plastic model contests, then I do like the way that they've been split out from the rest into their own groupings. At least that avoids the complaints from other entrants competing against them. Craftsmanship and artistry are to be admired wherever found, as you so rightly point out. There are model builders in other mediums that have abilities far above anything displayed by even the best IPMS members (like the guy who builds the large scale all-metal a/c models). I don't question acknowledging their astounding abilities as model builders. I do, however, question whether they belong in an IPMS plastic model contest. We're are (essentially) a group of folks who bought plastic model kits, assembled them, finished them, and played with them. Along the way, as we grew older, we realized we could take those same kits and turn them into scale representations of real life things. As the hobby progressed and dioramas became prevalent, metal figures were added into the mix. Metal detail parts were also introduced, BUT this was to add detail to our plastic kits! Metal pe parts and resin (another plastic medium) joined our hobby for the same reasons; to add to our plastic kits (or provide a kit where none existed). Conversely, how would a plastic USS Constitution be accepted at a wooden ship model competition? How about a 1/24th scale Airfix P-51 at a "scale" RC contest? They have their own grouping, just as we have ours. We can always acknowledge artistry by allowing others to display their works of art at our shows. Where I want to draw the line is within the contest, where we have to keep our entries on the most level playing field we can provide. GIL

Oooooo.....pretty airplane pics....... GIL

While I will disagree with the esteemed posters above about allowing anything and everything to compete in an i"P"ms contest; I think Bob's tank demonstrates what a builder needs to do in order to make their "toy" equate to building models. Do they need to break it down as far as Bob did?- Probably not Do they need to resort to scratchbuilding like Bob?- No, but they do need to rework the toy Do they need to prove that they DID break the toy down and rebuild/refinish it?- IMO- YES! A simple pic like the pic of the tank above is enough. Let's not forget that there are TWO sides to the people in the contests. While we want to be as inclusive as we can in our shows (some more than others, obviously), we also have a responsibility to maintain the appearances of fairness and a level playing field. The people who have to compete AGAINST those "toy" entries have to believe that there's something that brings it down to the same level as the kit that they themselves started with for their own build. They need to know that the "toy" builder does not enjoy any kind of "edge" over them, that the toy builder did as much work as themselves. I'll partially agree with Bob and Dick in that a model is a model is a model. It doesn't matter that Bob started with a GI JOE toy. He broke it down into its base elements, improved, replaced, rebuilt, and corrected it; changing it from a toy to a scale model. THAT, to me, is the acid test of whether or not it should be able to compete. As to where it should compete? In the large scale armor category. Although it has scratchbuilt stuff, it's not scratchbuilt in the true sense. Although it's been converted from a toy, it hasn't really been converted in its "type" of vehicle. It's simply a(nother) stunning achievement in modeling by Bob! By the way Bob, have I thanked you for switching to armor..... GIL

Glad to have ya here with us Jason! No need for the hockey mask here on the forum..... GIL

Love it! Another great build. GIL

Interesting. Sort of looks a little like a Grumman Agcat. I'd like to see more pics from other angles. I'd also suggest you post the price, your email address, and/or website URL so anyone interested in getting your kit can contact you. GIL

Well, apparently you succeeded! That Zero is a "ten"! Looks great Ying! GIL

Well, to me it's a matter of degree. I think to qualify for OUR shows, the "toy" should have to be almost completely (if not completely) disassembled, rebuilt, and repainted. The problem is, unless you're completely familiar with the item in question, well done work will mask how much trouble the builder actually had to go to (or not). The automotive divisions seem to run into this more often than other divisions, although with the release of some of the large (1/32 &1/16) aircraft that came assembled and painted, it's been growing in a/c too. As an occasional head judge, in a contest I'd be inclined to require some photo documentation that the builder did return the toy to "kit" form before rebuilding/repainting it, putting it on an even level with the other models. I still don't think we need a separate category for these items, as I've yet to see more than a couple at any one show. In a way, this gets to the philosophy of what i"P"ms is about; PLASTIC modeling. We're folks who buy KITS, assemble, and paint them. Sure, there are some tangents to that, but rebuilding toys is not one of them (IMO). It's like those beautiful wooden sailing ship models. No one can deny their craftsmanship, but they have almost nothing to do with building plastic models. Cheers! GIL

D&S= Detail and Scale. The Navy Phantom book is blue cover as opposed to most of the brownish D&S books. GIL