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ghodges

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ghodges

  1. You can almost sense from those pics how much more romantic "flight" was back then. Those are some great shots, thanks for sharing! GIL
  2. ghodges

    On-line Group Build

    Dick! Email in bound! SB
  3. Most of the really heavily weathered wood I've seen (like driftwood) is actually grayish looking. I think you could go that route, with washes of dark gray and black, and highlighting with light gray or white and get an old, weathered statue or shrine. Anyway, just a thought....best of luck! GIL
  4. Suggestions: If you use enamels, then I recommend Model Master Gloss White, thinned with lacquer thinner. Thin it to the consistency of milk. It's a bright white, goes on well, and dries overnight. If you want a flat white, get the Tamiya rattle can of Fine White Primer. It goes on as smooth as baby powder and dries hard in 30mins or less! Best of luck! Either of those whites should cover well over the silver/gray plastic of your kits. If you're going to paint some other darker colors and then apply the white, spray on a coat of Floquil old silver (or any other silver) first and the white will cover that more easily. Cheers! GIL
  5. One word of advice.....although Future doesn't yellow it does get old! I advise getting a new bottle once a year, even if you have a half a bottle left. I've noticed that "old" Future doesn't tend to shine as well, even when dipping a canopy in it 3 times (for example). Besides, the stuff is so cheap, it's not like your costing yourself a bunch of money just to be on the safe side. Cheers! GIL
  6. ghodges

    P-51d Finished...

    SWEET 'Stang! Your NMF looks perfectly fine to me, so I can't imagine what trouble you had that you mention. Looks very crisp and sharp! Thanks for posting! GIL
  7. Lovely F-4! There's something about those British Phantoms with the jacked up nose gear that makes their F-4s look even more rakish than the rest! Thanks for posting! GIL
  8. And here's the pics of the finished model. By the way, I have painted the front turn signals since theses pics were taken! It's no contest beauty, but it was GREAT fun to get a model done so quickly, and it was a bit of nostalgia for me, since I built these kits over 30yrs ago! Cheers! GIL
  9. I started this one at 11:30am on 1/14. I worked on it about 8hrs that day. In preparation I had already studied the instructions (to find shortcuts) and also had bought some fast drying spray paint at Walmart (Rustolem, etc.). As the day progressed, I test sprayed the gold color, let it dry, and also tested the clear coat over it. They both dried "hard" within about 2hrs; with no "crackling". The most time consuming part of the build was painting the figure head. I also opted to repaint most of the chrome parts by painting them with gloss black and then coating them with Alclad Chrome; which is a much more realistic chrome finish than the kit plating. BY the time I quit that evening I had the body painted and glossed, as well as 90% of the sub-assemblies done. It took about 3 hours of work the next afternoon when I got home from work to finish things up. Hope you enjoy! I did! GIL
  10. It sounds like you got some "white" water spotting in the Future while applying the decals; is that correct? Future will do this on occassion. The remedy is to apply another coat of Future and the white blushing usually goes away. The bad news here is that it sounds like you already applied another top coat over that, and that may prevent you from getting to the blushing in the Future. However, if you think the spotting is in the top coat (the acrylic semi-flat), you might try another coat of that to see if it makes them go away. That's my best guess, without seeing pics of your problem. Good Luck! GIL
  11. ghodges

    Airfix Harrier Gr5

    Very nice Harrier! Whenever I see a model of that plane I'm reminded of watching it hover at an airshow, and of how it's the LOUDEST airplane in the world! I agree with you in that Airfix kits can be a lot of fun. I'm mid-way through their 1/48 MkI Spitfire. Thanks for posting! GIL
  12. Top notch looking work! I like the D-VI because it seems to combine the superb lines of both the DR.I and the D-VII. I built the Tom's Modelworks 1/48 vacuform kit a few years ago because I didn't want to have to "trash" either the rare old Aurora kits or the expensive Dragon kits! The recent explosion of WWI kits from Eduard and Roden are a great way to fill your needs! Have you decided what markings you're going to put on this bird? Keep us in the loop! Cheers! GIL
  13. ghodges

    A Few More

    Glad to hear the HB Mirage IIIC is good. I bought it after looking at the Eduard kit but have yet to build it. Nice group! GIL
  14. Sharp looking F-84F! What NMF did you use, and are those the kit markings? GIL
  15. Excellent work and some great looking finishes! How did the Tweety Bird go together? I've been meaning to build that one for years and have procrastinated..........Thanks for posting! GIL
  16. ghodges

    P-51d Progress...

    A note of caution about the Hasagawa Mustang decals. I had the 352nd version and found some of them to be a little brittle, but what was worse was that the "whites" were translucent. Be wary! Best of luck! GIL
  17. ghodges

    P-51d Progress...

    That's a sweet front office ya got going there! I've also built both 'Stang kits and agree that over all the Tamiya kit is better. What markngs are you going to use? Keep us posted! GIL
  18. I think I prefer the clean machine you already have! My vote is no wash.... GIL
  19. ghodges

    Hey Lynn !!!!!

    If he does leave Barry at home, he can forgo hauling the trailer needed for Barry's trophies! Or better yet, build something NOT Luftwaffe and you won't be butting heads! Don't ya just hate guys who can airbrush mottled camo like he can...... GIL
  20. Great looking Starfighter! Thanks for the updates and the finished shots! GIL
  21. My understanding is that these are a lot like the very cheap ($10) 1/32 kits that were in Walmart. Their design is intended for the very casual builder but they have great potential for the serious builder. I think it's a great approach from the manufacterer and marketing viewpoint. They have a shot at those who need easy items to get them interested and also some sales within our group. I just hope they decide to release some subjects that haven't already been done to death as regular kits (and in 1/48!) Cheers! GIL
  22. There's almost no way to open a kit hatch AND use it on the model. First, as you point out, it ends up noticebly smaller. There's also the likleyhood that your tool will stray and damage the hatch while removing it. And most importantly, almost all kit plastic is too thick to be a good scale representation. Your best bet is to cut open the hatch area and build a new hatch door. If you have a Mattel vac machine or the ability to thermoform sheet plastic you can use the cut out part as a master. Since the new vac piece will be slightly larger than the master, it'll look good (size-wise) by the open hatch hole. You will need to add more sheet plastic structure to the interior side to beef it up a bit, and to add those details you want there anyway. If thermoforming isn't an option and you need to duplicate some curvature, you can do that by hand. Get a thin sheet of plastic or metal (cut up soda cans are great for this). Fold a paper towel over on itself several times to form a raised "pad". Place the sheet on the paper and use a mandril (your Exacto knife handle, a piece of dowel or brass rod, or a paintbrush handle) to ROLL over the sheet. The degree of curvature will vary on the following: 1) the diameter of your "tool" (mandril); the thinner the rolling stock, the sharper the curvature. 2) The pressure you exert while rolling. Start with easy pressure and add as you go. If you push hard to start you may "crease" the sheet; ruining it. 3) The thickness and how "padded" your paper towel base is (the softer the base, the greater the curvature) and 4) the thickness of the plastic or metal sheet you're working on. As you might guess, it'll take some trial and error to get the exact result you want. Note that your sheet material will have some "spring" to it that will make it difficult to attain the curvature you want. Plan on rolling in more to begin with to get what you want after it relaxes. Metal sheet can also be "annealed" to take its spring out. Do this by setting it on a stove burner and heating it til it discolors. Let it cool and its ready to go! By the way, doing this and using the above rolling technique is the way to make those PE gun barrels curve all the way around into a circle! Hope this helps. It's a bit of work but your premise is right; an open hatch adds a great "candid" look to a model and adds visual detail that's very appealing. Best of luck! GIL
  23. The blending of the conversion parts to the kit looks perfect, and that's not easy on a NMF model! Looking good! GIL
  24. That's looking very sharp. I look forward to seeing how the Futured panels look compared to the other areas. GIL
  25. Impressive! And even James has to bow to your almost 1/week production schedule! Congrats, and thanks for sharing! GIL
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