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Posts posted by elarson

  1. Just discovered this thread so have to play a bit of catch up.


    Currently on my bench is a Hasegawa (ex-Mania) 1/48 Ki-27 Nate. Don't ask me why, with dozens of the latest and greatest kits on my shelves, I pulled out this golden oldie, but there it is. :)


    I need to take some new pictures as I now have the fuselage together with wings, tail planes, and landing gear attached. Here are a few covering the past few weeks though. Hopefully, tomorrow will see some painting done.


    Oh, that's a True Details resin cockpit set being used. I'm also using TD wheels and a Squadron vac-form canopy. Markings will be from the Aeromaster "Eagles of the Rising Sun" set.


















  2. I wrapped up this 9-month project last week. Many of you may have already seen this on some of the other forums but I thought I'd toss it in here too. :smiley1:


    I've only built one WWI plane before this one - a 1/48 DML Fokker Dr.1 - so this project was WAY outside of my "comfort zone"! I can't say enough good things about the incredible job Wingnut did on this kit. I enjoyed every minute of the build (or have forgotten the less enjoyable moments).


    Built pretty much straight from the box with only a few minor extras. The radiator handle, engine ignition wires, and the brace wire on the observer's gun were added from bits of styrene and wire. The p/e cooling jacket on the pilot's Spandau is from a Tom's Modelworks Fokker Dr.1 set and the little front ring sight on the same gun is from a Copper State Models set.


    Rigging is 2 lb. nylon fishing line painted with Humbrol Metalizer Polished Steel. Turnbuckle bodies were made from .012"/.018" stainless steel hypodermic tubing and everything anchored to the model with Bob's Buckles little hook eyes.


    Wood grain effect is done with artist's oils over a base of Tamiya acrylics.














  3. I love the stuff! If they knew how much I've spent on their aircraft p/e sets over the years, Eduard would probably have a plaque with my name on it hanging in their office. :rolleyes:


    Yeah, it adds a ton of time to the build but I am a detail fiend. I really enjoy tinkering with the teeny bits and I like the delicate, intricate look that one can get with a good p/e set. The only sad thing is when I put a lot of effort into something that ends up being hidden away when everything is assembled. That's when the old saying "at least I know it's there" comes into play.


    I do find some parts done in p/e downright silly as the medium is limited to flat and folded shapes. Brake lines is one that comes to mind. Those are better done with wire or fine solder.



  4. Hi all,


    I love this Touch n Flow glue applicator. I have one problem though, I can't seem to get it to reload after running it dry as I'm gluing the parts together. Seems it has to totally dry out before I can use it again. Has anyone else experienced it, and if so, is there a way around it?





    I suck glue into the applicator. Because of the danger of inhaling fumes or glue, I made a little device to help with this. It got some clear flexible tubing (fuel line), cut about a 6" length and stuck it onto a 3 or 4" length of Evergreen styrene tubing. I slip the flexible tubing over the end of the T'n'F applicator and use the Evergreen tubing as a "straw" to gently suck some glue into the applicator.


    Oh, and for clearing a clogged needle, I have a length of very fine steel music wire that fits into the needle. Works great to ream out any plastic goo that gets stuck in the end.




  5. Can anyone recommend a good set of general purpose tweezers? I have ones from three different Make up manufacturers, several from miniature tool places and some from the medical profession. Most if not all seem to still not hold the part properly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.




    Check out the cosmetic department at your local drug store/dept store and look for La Cross tweezers. I have 5 or 6 different types that I use on a regular basis. I have one that has a flat, angled head, to which I stuck a piece of Dymo labeling tape on the inside of both tips, and then trimmed off any overhanging tape with a knife. It is great for handling photo-etch, especially the pre-painted Eduard stuff, without marring the surface.




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