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Mark Ford

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Everything posted by Mark Ford

  1. Additional information has come out (on ML) the collection will be staying put on the Ranch. Don't know how or why the original rumor started. So it looks like this one has been put to rest. Mark
  2. OK, I saw a posting on the ML web site stating information is out there (unconfirmed) the Littlefield collection may be sold off. Of course, I commented on the topic on that site and repeated it on ML . Has anyone else heard of this from a reliable source? I do not like rumors so I'm looking to see if anyone here has the facts. I mean if I'm going to spread a rumor....I want the rumor to be true . Cheers, Mark
  3. Mark, Sadly that's the other R & J company. Rich and Joy are staying home this year. The last Omaha Nats in 1994 Rich and I drove out from the SF bay area in his Ford Explorer stuffed with his vendor goodies. Driving through Nebraska was a trip....mile after mile of nothin' but corn fields!!! See ya in 2 weeks, Mark
  4. Myself and 3 others will be coming in on Wednesday afternoon from the Pacific Northwest. Oddly enough, our flight out of Seattle goes to Phoenix (shucks, missed it by a year ) where we change planes for the second leg to Omaha. That's over 5 hours in the air! Mark
  5. Ah, but Mark the Bison II is totally new. It is not a retool of the old Alan kit. I'm hoping I'll have mine in my hands this week. See ya in 2 weeks in Omaha...drive safely, Mark
  6. What an amazing act of kindness during a time of sorrow. This is something I'd not considered for when my time comes....but I am now. My sincere sympathy for the Hudsons.
  7. I really hate to see guys get upset over model contests. In the end, our contests are for people to gather to enjoy a common interest. The contest results allow some of you to take home a token of "success" and short lived bragging rights. Having said this, every contest I've ever attended has had some level of confusion usually involving a different interpretation of the rules. My club just finished putting on our 6th annual contest and we had a great time. As the head judge, I added information to the list of caterory/class spelling out what is an "open top" and what is a "closed top". It helped folks to understand the difference.....at least we had no complaints and we followed the Nats rules (mostly). I, also, have a printed copy of the Nats rules available for folks to refer to since our contest flyer states we follow those rules. 2 more cents worth, Mark
  8. Mark, Great job! The show was a great success due to the help of the club members, volunteers and attendees! I think Patti's pictures bring to life the reason we do the show.....the people! It was a fun day that left me very tired at the end. Mark
  9. Mark did have a great time at the show....I saw him carrying an arm load of armor kits!!!!!!!! And, he was good enough to help with the judging. It was much appreciated! Mark Ford NOPMS Head Judge
  10. Mark, Looking forward to seeing you at the show. Bring lots of models and be prepared to help judge : ) Mark
  11. Ron has this pretty much correct. This is a question that comes up from time to time. This may be because the rules for the National Contest can be confusing. Back in the early '90's when I was new to judging, Art Gerber (late Head Armor Judge and a great guy) gave this explaination. An "open top" is any vehicle having interior detail visible. This would automatically include SPG's etc. It would also include a tank or armored car with the hatches open and through which interior detail can be seen. This also applies to open engine hatches too. Exceptions can be found if the model has figures in the hatches or the hatches are open but no detail has been added to the interior. The figures would block the view to the interior thus making it "closed top". Open hatches with no interior detail, we normally give the modeler some slack and allow it to be "closed top". While it would be nice for all the rules to be spelled out clearly, the somewhat vague rules allow the judges some leeway, usually in favor of the builder. I don't know if this helps but if in doubt, ask the head judge for the contest. Good luck, Mark
  12. Ron, Nicely done! And, like Mark said "a blast from the past". Mark
  13. Mark.....AEF Designs did some very interesting subjects over the years. Much of his stuff was Israli and unique. I am friends with a person who did many of the masters for Tony. The masters were bueatiful but the products were very "hit and miss". AEF Designs had ZERO quality control for the products sold. I strongly suspect you won't be paying "collector" prices for anything you may find. Mark
  14. Mark, Have a great time at the show and take lots of pictures! This will be the first time in 10 years I've had to miss this one . I'm at the front end of getting my back fixed and the concrete floors would be murder !!! Have fun, Mark
  15. Mark, I like it very much. It is the perfect size for taking pictures of my tanks. Using it for 1/48 and larger planes may be another story. And, I didn't mentiuon ships : ) Mark
  16. Bob, Amazing work! The level of detail and the quality is beyond words. Hope to see this in person in Omaha!!! Congrats, Mark
  17. Mark, I bought one at Walmart that looks just like this one, except for the camera stand, for $50. I'd shop around before taking the plunge for $90 plus shipping. Mark
  18. David, To answer your question.....I use Duracryl Acrylic Lacquer thinner #876 to thin Tamiya acrylic paints. I mix this at a 50/50 ratio and it goes down smooth as silk! I have only found this product a automotive paint stores. I, also, use it to thin my Model Master enamels too. HTH, Mark
  19. Very nice! I really like seeing the camo scheme on your model. I know the Esci kit can be a bear but you have done well by it! Cheers, Mark
  20. I have a friend who does lots of Sci-fi masters. According to him, Disney is very protective of their copyright. They want a ton of money for any of their products. The Nautilus is right at the top of their list. I believe I'm correct with this info...unless someone else knows more. Mark
  21. Pappy, Assuming you are airbrushing your base colors and that they are emanels, there are two things you can do to safely add a wash. First, thin your emanels for airbrushing with a lacquer thinner. Most off-the-shelf hardware store brands of lacquer thinner will work, though I perfer the automotive paint brand. Next, make the wash using "Turpinoid" by Weber in the blue can. It will not affect your base coat be it either enamel or acrylic. You can find it in most arts and crafts supply stores. Mark
  22. Congrats Mark!!!!! Did I mentiuon my Journal came in the mail today out on the peninsula ? . Mark
  23. It is obvious from the pictures you have no idea what you are doing and are way in over your head (sarc)!!! You must box everything up and mail it to me . On a serious note, this is looking very good!!! Please keep posting your progress pictures. Cheers, Mark
  24. If it's not too late, get the Atak zimmerit for the Tiger. I've used the stuff on a couple of models and swear by it. Mark
  25. Nicely done but I do agree with Mike. If you are entering the piece in a contest, the judges will mark you down for having"magic straps/stowage". One other suggestion...weather the tires to suggest dirt and dust in the tread pattern. Welcome back to modeling!!! Mark
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