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TheWalrus

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Everything posted by TheWalrus

  1. A new trend seems to be starting among mail order vendors. A new product is announced as a "Pre-Order"; you place your order and find that your credit/debit is charged immediately. You then are expected to wait a month or more until the product arrives on the market and in the vendor's hands for actual shipping. I know of at least three major and one lesser known one who practice this. Seems like a good way to use our money to purchase inventory. An interest free loan for whatever length of time needed. A product is annouced to be released in the future, but "we have a special price for pre-orders". You pre-order and that gets the vendor the money for operating funds to order the stock when it does become available. Sweet!
  2. In my experience, surface prep is everything and that includes a good washing to remove any finger oils, manufacturing release agents and such. Followed by a good basecoat primer. I am just starting to use acrylics to any extent. No problems so far. I moved to acrylics from lacquers and enamels due to the volatiles in them and the fact that since moving to our new house have more vapor exposure to rest of living spaces. Not tried Blu-tac yet. Looks like it won't give a sharp demarcation line but rather at best a slight feathering. Is that your experience. I know you build that armor crap, :lol: and build standards are lower than when a true model (airplane) is under the airbrush so your repsonse may be weighted.
  3. Illustrator retails for $599. Pretty pricey for an occassional decal. On the other hand if the topic starter is going to be designing his own for commercial production .... Corel is good software. I haven't ever tried to make a decal, but do use the MS Digital Image and also MS Publisher to make posters for community activities. Also for photo editing and printing from gif, jpg, and others with no problems. Just my personal exsperiences to relate.
  4. Anyone have experience with parafilm? Sounds like a useful masking material. Does it cut well after applied, such as used for canopy masking? Is it easily removed with no residue? etc?
  5. Photoshop is over-kill. Photoshop Elements is a "light" version that is a highly capable and incorporates all of the features of Photoshop that most peopole would need. I am using Microsoft Digital Image 2006 and find it incredibly useful. It was discontinued a few years ago, but if you do a web search you will find it on the MS site as a free download. There is also a slick piece of s/w called Paint.net available free on the Internet. It is very much like PS Elements but with an obviously better price. Also, be aware that if you opt for PS-Elements, Adobe has announced their annual new version (10) will be released soon if not already. If you have already purchased it you may be able to make a call to their customer service and get a free or low cost upgrade. Watch Fry's, NewEgg.com and Costco. Good prices at each. A consideration also is your colour printer and the ink it may use. Some inks are waterproof when dry. Make sure of that when choosing. Watch out for re-fill ink because it may not be to mfr spec's. OK for normal use but may not be for decals.
  6. Looking for the wing attach points and GE F-100. Did you forget? :D
  7. Thanks. Have sent email to Mr. West. The kit is nice on exterior but need a lot of work in cockpit, especially due to the size of the greenhouse.
  8. Thank you, sir! I had been searching the web and even contacted Grumman to no avail. I new someone here would step up. Once I had the book name I did try the e-bay source, but had problems with payment method. I then found it on Amazon for even less total cost and it's on the way. Had no idea Eduard made a photoetch set and will purchase in next day or so. Trying to find a US source with it in stock. Oh, joy! Thanks again.
  9. Can anyone point to a source for aftermarket parts for the 1/48 (subject kit)? Also can anyone point to cockpit interior photos and other detail stuff. Mincraft kit is on deck and looks pretty neat, but sparse on the detail side if one wants to go contest grade.
  10. Walmart has the Loctite brand in the same place, i.e. opposite aisle to paint, co-located with tapes. The Loctite bottle is similar to the nail polish bottle as stated but has a wider base making it more stable and less prone to knock over. You will need to work at it to tip it.
  11. I would modify thi statement to say that diffuse and indirect flash works just fine. Benefit is that it is daylight corrected for correct color temperature. Also flash will eleiminate need for the slow shutter speeds required using ambient lighting and high magnification light loss (effective f-stop). Can be helpful if a tripod is not available because the flash duration gives an effective shutterspeed of the duration of the flash itself.
  12. re. "add is an additional incandescent bulb ". Problem ahead. Mixing color temps of flourescent flourexcent (daylight corrected) and incandescent lamps will cause problems with accurate color rendition. Also beware of using your tissue paper diffusers when exposing to high heat of incandescent. You could find your whole house a pile of melted styrene. Also you might want to avoid mixing light sources and being aware of background colors with those mixed color temperature lamps. Post processing for color rdendition will be a nighmare.
  13. Hey Dick...Thank you for the WELCOME... Yes I have heard of the Green Dragons. Infact I think That I meet a few guys from the club last weekend at the IPMS Show at Fort Warden, Port Townsend, Wa. Really enjoyed the show and it's A very Cool Place. It really reminded me a lot of North Fort at Ft. Lewis. All wooden buildings and they where kept up nicely. Anthony's is a good place to eat. Been there a few times myself. I'm a musician and I' ve had the opportunity to eat at A lot of the Restaurants in this area. That one Ranks as a GOOD one. You must be the fellow I chatted with at the raffle table. I was the awsomely handsome guy in the yellow cap on the other side of that table. Mark A. can confirm that I am truly and awsomely handsome, by the way.
  14. I received this communication from a Greek officer in one of their military schools. Any help would be appreciated: "Dear SirI am not a member of the IPMS/USA but anyway i want some informations.I am an artillery officer (major) in the Hellenic(Greek)Army.For the time being i am a student in the National Defence University of the Hellenic Armed Forces.I prepare my thesis about the development of the LGM-118 Peacekeeper(MX) ICBM.I want to accompany my paper work with a plastic model of the missile.From your post in IPMS/USA,i realize that you have the best credentials to inform me if plastic models of the MX exists and when i can find them.I have seen wooden models of the MX but they lack in detail.Thanks for your understanding. Regards,George" geobizver@yahoo.gr
  15. I received this communication from a Greek officer in one of their military schools. Any help would be appreciated: "Dear SirI am not a member of the IPMS/USA but anyway i want some informations.I am an artillery officer (major) in the Hellenic(Greek)Army.For the time being i am a student in the National Defence University of the Hellenic Armed Forces.I prepare my thesis about the development of the LGM-118 Peacekeeper(MX) ICBM.I want to accompany my paper work with a plastic model of the missile.From your post in IPMS/USA,i realize that you have the best credentials to inform me if plastic models of the MX exists and when i can find them.I have seen wooden models of the MX but they lack in detail.Thanks for your understanding. Regards,George" geobizver@yahoo.gr
  16. I received this communication from a Greek officer in one of their military schools. Any help would be appreciated: "Dear SirI am not a member of the IPMS/USA but anyway i want some informations.I am an artillery officer (major) in the Hellenic(Greek)Army.For the time being i am a student in the National Defence University of the Hellenic Armed Forces.I prepare my thesis about the development of the LGM-118 Peacekeeper(MX) ICBM.I want to accompany my paper work with a plastic model of the missile.From your post in IPMS/USA,i realize that you have the best credentials to inform me if plastic models of the MX exists and when i can find them.I have seen wooden models of the MX but they lack in detail.Thanks for your understanding. Regards,George" geobizver@yahoo.gr
  17. Eduard had a box of the corrected canopies in baggies at Phoenix. Free to anyone needing one. These are 1/32 scale. I know because I picked one up and am looking a it right now. It has two sets. One has a hole in the windscreen and has a telescopic site included. for that version of windscreen. Site opening is on starboard side of front panel lower corner. If you need the replacement you should contact Eduard directly via email on their site. D. Goudie 6340
  18. I'd be all over that! Think of the possibilities. Might help staunch the endless flow of Spitfires & Bf-109 's.
  19. I don't know if anyone has noticed but the WingNuts Wings site http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/ has made a small change. If you look in the "Coming Soon" selection you will see that it has changed to only list a 1/32 Pfalz D.IIIa and a 1/32 Roland D.VIa . It says "Coming Soon 2010". Within the next two months another bucket of gold will be launched from our friends in New Zealand should this hold true. The previous listings must have been moved to next year. Still nothing on their resin figures.
  20. My guage goes from 0 to 60 lbs. Yours will give better accuracy. The 2nd best rule is "Whatever works for you." The first best rule is to do whatever your wife says.
  21. A welding supply store will have the regulator and also tank if you need one. Refills are cheap because you just do a tank exchange. Empty one for a refilled one. You only pay for the gas. If the welding supply house does not have an adapter just go to an auto supply store. They have bins of brass fittings and I always find what I need. P.S. don't go to a chain store but rather a well supplied local guy. The chains may not have a supply of fittings due to standard inventories. I like syphon feed brushes and single action. Reason for that is that I tend to get too enthusiastic and spill out of the gravity cups. Single action is easier for me to control due to arthritis and carpal thingies. I use Iwata and Grex. Both are double action, but they have the capability to be preset and that essentially makes them good for me.
  22. I have heard that CO2 gives off moisture at some point. This has not been my experience though. I suggest that you buy a two stage regulator. Mine has a guage showing tank pressure on the first guage and regulated pressure on the second. I rarely measure ratios in my paints, but rather just eyeball it to the point where it (the paint/thinner mix) is the consistency of milk. I guage this by its ability to run back down the inside of the bottle leaving only a thin translucent film to remain. It takes a little learning but does the job for me. 10 to 20 psi is my usual working range I have also discovered that all acrylics do not thin with the same thinners. I have had some brands curdle using alcohol and others doing the same for water. I like the Tamiyas for the most part. It thins with alcohol and clean up is a snap, including stripping to redo a botched job. Windex is perfect for clean up. I have heard amonia works too, and Windex has amonia but it sure smells better. In my area Tamiya is much more prevalent that the Lifecolors, Gunze, Mr. Color, etc. I switched to acrylics due to the lack of aerosoling odors that come with lacquers and enamels. My model build area is now colocated with the rest of our home and the vapors are too too much for colocating in an interior. If you think you may have a sealing problem try using a tiny amount of beeswax on the threads of any removable parts. This will seal and is neutral to the parts and paint contact. Another thing you could use is glycerine. A tiny drop on the threads of any mating parts will give a nice seal and does not leave a hard to remove residue loike beeswax. Check the cone that the needle projects through. I had a cracked exit annulus once due to a misadjusted needle which force itself past the normal seating.
  23. Aug. 28 addendum: I received the Grandt Line products and am satisfied with what I got. Note that I am not into "rivet counting". The packages I ordered were numbers: 54, 4019, 5039 (turnbuckles). These are noted as 1:48, 1:64, 1:87 scales, but I only care about what looks about right. Also received were #'s 93, 128, 139, and 5066. These are various nut/washer combines in different "scales" once again. I can see applications for these too. I note that some of these packages come in brass also but at a VERY premium price. Once painted wh cares? As far as quality the parts are injection molded and on sprues. Quality is very nice even in the really tiny sizes. Anyway these do the trick for me at a good price.
  24. Geez! What a variety of answers. I will be trying each one. I have the Eduard etch rigging sets also. They are by their nature 1-dimensional, but I suspect a little white glue will bring them into the world of 3-D. I will let you all know how the Grant Line stuff works out. Might even see them today in the post. I have had several rigging lines finish up with a little slack in them. I tired using an incense stick held underneath (experiment but not too close!) I move the stick to where the smoke rises past the "wire" (monfilament fly fishing tippet line) after a little exposure the line will suddenly tighten up. Works great if you are careful. Model smells great too!
  25. I have no idea as to scale equivalents. I just ordered one of each size (cheap enough) and will see what looks right. I did the same for the nuts and washers. They are all a lot cheaper than the photo etches. I ordered by phone and lady said they would go out "today" (yesterday). I will post my opinions when I get and/or use them. I doubt if scale is a consideration. I think that appearance would be the criterion. By going with scale one could be way off. An aircraft rigging turnbuckle would not be the same size as a railroad turnbuckle. Same for nuts, bolts & such. I have built the WNW Sopwith Pup and am finishing up the Albatros DV. I am satisfied with both builds but am still wandering in the rigging department. Problem 1 is the turnbuckles, and two is finding a way to fasten without getting a glob of CA or other adhesive tried for anchoring. CA seems to be winning, but finding a good way to apply the drop is now the problem. Using a curved x-acto blade tip is good, and I am also trying a longer needle tip also. Another keey t the rigging is to plan ahead. Building a bank of experience is also helping.
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