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TheWalrus

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Everything posted by TheWalrus

  1. Try lifting it from crevices with a higher tack masking tape or such. Works sometimes for me. Also works for tape residue on occasion.
  2. Sorry for not being clear. I am an experienced modeler. Just been a few years. Need to regain old skills and learn new ones. I prefer building sub assemblies first, but lost my common sense in my enthusiasm on this one. Thought it would be a simple quick build so chose it from the stash. Instructions are not bad, just unclear in some areas. Devil is in the details. Learned handling teeny etch parts. Learned handling tiny decals (instruments). decided on another airbrush purchase. Been using siphon feed for years, but now going to ad gravity feed to set. Pistol grip Grex TG2. Learned how fast work area clutters up. Etc, etc.
  3. Started this bad boy 2-weeks ago. Beautifully crafted and engineered kit. Very fine detail, excellent fit needs little if any filler. On the other hand, returning to buidling means regaining skills. So far I have learned that following instruction sheet sequencing is important. In my excitement I got ahead cementing the fuselage halves and also the top deck. Couldn't figure out why cockpit deck and openings in top deck didn't seem to line up, Uh, oh! backtrack. Big mess because everything well cemented in place. Just finished that little (Ha!) job and now can move forward. Instruction sheet is pretty poor and unclear. See if you can find color 351. It's called out on the instruction pictographs but not listed in colors matrix. Educated guess is that it is the apple green/green chromate/yellow chromate/interior green family. Some other colors are suspect. Part numbers are not sequential in pictographs. More random than not. For example C5 and C24 are on page 7; C22, C11, etc are on pp5 & 6 and not related to others. C4 is the left aileron assy on pp6 while C5 is a blanking panel over the bomb/torpedo bay on pp7. The engine assy is a little jewel, but poorly illustrated and no locating guide for the wiring harness. Photoetch is excellent but many parts are too teeny for even a young eye. Carpet monster ate several etch parts, but cockpit is pretty tight so may not miss them. Figure if I'm lucky it will be done for Orlando so TSA can bust it up looking at it prior to boarding the great silver bird. Nice kit though. Half of problems are pilot error on my part. No photos yet.
  4. Check out the post pinned to the top of the forum.
  5. If you have r/c model sailboaters in your area check with them. Those guys often build their own boats to standard class plans, and make a master mold (male)building up layers of fiberglass in hull construction.
  6. Had I known details of your application in this case I would have recommended 3-M 's Spray Adhesive Type 77. Spray it on both mating surfaces, wait 30-sec's or so and mate them together. Just be sure to start at a corner or edge length and work to opposite end. when bonding. Helps get rid of air pockets (bubbles). It's easier to use than resin for this type of app. There is another version which is not permanent, but rather lo-tack and it's good if you may want to remove or take the pieces apart in the future.
  7. Model Expo specializes in model ships and supplies.Also how-to books. Micro-Mark tools are better quality from my past experience - a few years ago. MoEx has bags of blocks, belaying pins, cannon balls, chains, etc., etc., ad infinitum. Try those small "duck-bill" alligator clips from Radio Shack. They make great weights to tension a line and free-up your other hand.
  8. Eric - Wouldn't it be nice to see a Red Bull or two. Heck, with the dirth of F1 cars, I would be happy with a red car or two and why hasn't somebody done a Mclaren Mercedes? Come to think of it, any of the front runners would be nice. Check out Pacific Coast Models: http://www.pacmodelscatalog.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PCM&Category_Code=EB+120+F1
  9. Nice job. Good adhesive choice. Must have been a pain getting an even spread to entire bonding surface. Did you use your wife's spatula?
  10. An adjustable nib drafting pen is a nice tool, also. You can still find them in art supply stores. I use one all the time. You can adjust the tip to give as much or as little flow as you want. Less expensive too.
  11. If you have been a model builde rin the past you already have a good idea about your basic tools. Xacto knife with no. 11 blades is the most common A no. 2 paint brush is a good basic brush. Buy one made for your paint type choice. If it's a good one it will maintain a point and can do really fine detail work. At some point you will want a larger and smaller brush(es) but it's a good start Paints are a personal preference but I use acrylics due to the home atmosphere friendliness and easier clean-up Tamiya green top (thinnest) liquid cement is excellent and creates a great bond while a tube type cement gives a high ddegree of strength for bonding (example) wings to fuselage on a large scale airplane. Liquid cement is a lot friendlier to use though, imho. A sprue cutter is nice and makes the job easier, but it is expensive compared to using the Xacto which we all started out with A nice to have but not necessary is a self-healing cutting surface for parts/sprue separation and any phot-etch work. Like I said, nice to have but..... If I were just starting out, but had previous experience, I would take one of my (your) stash kits and just start. It's the quickest way to figure out what you will really need. Thn when you decide you need or want something else choose the best source for you and make the acquisition. There is one key thing to remember. If you need to buy a tool or accessory get the best you can. Good tools will never let you down and save money in the long run. If you have a local hobby shop by all means patronize them first. You will also find good stuff in your local art supply store. That being said, many of us do not have these resources in a "local" area, especially considering fuel prices. These forums are a good resource for infomation and recommendations and the fact that you are here indicates you are already making good choices for information. People giving you suggestions are good and well meaning, but their and my recommendations may or may not work for you. You need to decide. What works for me may or may not work for you. It's not really the tool you don't have but what you can do with the ones you have. Tools may make the job easier, but skills developed with experience will make it right. By the way, if you can attend a local chapters show by all means do so. They almost always have vendors and hard to find goodies. If you can makes the Nat's you will find the best feature is the worlds largest mobile hobby store.
  12. Good suggestions, but what exactly are you attaching to (exactly) what? For example, if you are placing a heavy object on the plastic base (such as a large a/c model or ship) you might consider bolting the plastic to the wood. (I'm thinking a display pylon for an aircraft, here). Double ended machine or lag bolts will do the job. Machine bolts are best. Counter sink the bottom openings in the wood for the nuts and don't forget to use a washer. Super glue should be the last option. If you are mating up two large flat surface then Weldbond is a good option. It does look like Elmer's but it is definitely not. if you can control the size of the plastic base then making it larger and triming after bonding will save alignment problems. Liquid or spray contact cement is also a very good choice, Problem is that you better have everything lined up and start from one end or corner and work outward when mating the two surfaces or you will have the parts mis-aligned and could trap air-pockets. With contact cement if you get those faults it is just too bad. It's permanent and not adjustable. Whatever you decide remember that mating surface prep is of paramount importance to get a good bond with maximum strength. Clamping or adding weight to the flat surfaces will help to assure a good bond.
  13. This should help: Windex or other amonia based window cleaner is a great acrylic paint remover. Coffee stirrers (the hollow tube kind) purchased at Costco at about a million/bag make great paint stirrers. Diamond fingernail files can be purchased at our local hardware and drugstores for about $5 each and are great for fine filing work. Flexible nail files from Wal-mart are very cheap and the same as the hobby shop ones. Watch Harbor Frieght for specials. (I got an ultra sonic cleaner for less than $20) Bee's wax from art supply or other source is a great thread sealer to prevent air leaks on your airbrush - use very sparingly. Water bottle caps make great disposable holders for super-glue. Just put what you need in the cap and use a toothpick to dip out what you need. Toss when done. (If you are really thrifty you can pop the dried s-g out and re-use ther cap.) P.S. use the unlined caps. "Butcher" or freezer paper is great to protect work surfaces from paint and glue. Need sheet plastic for gap filling, etc.? Use the fake credit cards that comde in the mail (most a plastic, some are not.) Duck-bill alligator clamps from Radio Shack make good mini-clamps. Cat whickers make great radio antennas (don't let wife catch you, and just use the ones that cat drops off.) Rigging antenna wires or WW-i rigging wire from stretched sprue? cut slightly longer to attach. When cement or super-glue cures fully use a fireworks punk to apply heat. Heat will cause the sprue to shrink. Works on mono-filament fishing line, also. Use an incense stick instead of a punk and you will have a nice smelling work-room on top of all. You can use the smoke from the stick or punk to see where the heat is rising to get it where you want it. Experiment with distance and ber aware that the "shrink" will happen quickly once temperature is reached. Make VERY sure not to leave alit punk lying around. Pipe cleaners will get into paint tubes for airbrushes Normal household glycerine is a great lubricant for your airbrush needle after cleaning. It's very cheap and works as good as the one the airbrush mfrs sell. Just put it on and then wipe it off. Just a drop does it. Ask your tooth fairey if you can have the pumice polishing compound after your visit to the dentist. It's free and they are happy to oblige because they just throw thde little cup away after they are done. On good terms with your dentist? I got some really nice cutters, grinders and polishers that way - free. Your wife probably has one of those adjustable bottle/jar openers in the kitchen. Works great for those stubborn paint bottle caps. Baby food jars are great for holding brush cleaning liquids. One for acrylic cleaners; one for lacquer cleaners, etc. Prescription bottles are great for left-over small small parts. Use each bottle for similar or like parts. Save larger pieces of brass photo-etch frets when project is complete. Whitener toothpaste (kind with the fine grit, not the gels) is a great polishing compound. FInal surface prep for metalizer style (Alclad II ?) done with the fiber "wadding" Brasso will polish to a perfect finish. A drop of liquid dishwashing detergent added to decal water soak is a great weting agent. I have heard of and seen results of using apple vinegar to turn those shiney metal after-market tracks into something more realistic. Can't vouch for this one. For those tiny decals I use the pointy end of my No. 11 X-acto. Just a little stab and then move it and apply where you want it. Addendum 6/1/12: Check out your local fly-fishing store if you have one. I find lead wire in spools and handy monofilament in various tiny diameters. Lead wire is good stuff for plumbing engines and such. Monofilament is great rigging material for WWI or antennas. Use the "punk" mentioned above in the same manner. Works great. Monofilament comes in clear (looks like silver wire when installed, and also a grey which also looks like wire. A good store also has special tools for fly tying which are useful for fine work. All those blister packs that you open and throw away are good sources for clear plastic; also good for holding blended epoxy and superglue drops prior to application. Make-up brushes make good dusters for your models. Check Walmart for really inexpensive ones because a dep't store is pricy. Need weights for a/c noses or such? Local tire shop has used ones laying all over the place. You can get them free for asking because they have no use after removal. Nail polish remover is almost always acetone and is good for debonding/removing super glue. Those little plastic water cups (bathroom?) are cheap and great for mixing and/or thinning acrylics and easy dispensing into an airbrush cup or direct brushing. No clean-up, just toss. Don't know how they would react to lacquer or enamels that use volatiles to thin. REMEMBER: SAFETY awareness is of utmost importance. You cannot avoid having some flammables present. Be aware!!!!!
  14. No models that I know of, but I would nominate "Morons From Outer Space".
  15. .....and I thought my work area is a mess . Yours is truly a work of art and definitely a man's place. Good on ya! :lol:
  16. Detail photos would be helpful. Close-up to see moulding quality. Sounding like Airfix though.
  17. I bought a box of Nitrile gloves at Costco. Work great. I don't sweat through them but we have a mild climate in the NW. I don't recall how many are in a box, but you will see them in a doctor's office in the same size box. Looks like large kleenex box or paper towel wipe box. Small, medium and large. Box was under $10.00 as I recall.
  18. Wingnut Wings has just released the 32019 - 1/32 Pfalz D.XII if you have been anxiously waiting. An FYI
  19. Really cool. On the other hand waaaayy off topic. Great trivia though and I do like trivia, my friends.
  20. We need to put this into perspective, guys. Mr. Tate asked an easy question for a simple task. Now we are giving him a discussion of $600 software, pixels, pixellation, dpi, scaling and more. Good information and thoughts though.
  21. Good addvice. Unfortunately, in some cases, such as mine, my Local Hobby Shop is 40 miles away and does not carry an inventory of the more esoteric and exotic stuff that we frequently look for. Squadron, etc. are right here in my man cave 24/7. It is a clear choice to make for me. Oh, I forgot, there is a very well stocked model shop 15-miles, a $30 round trip ferry ride and another 10 miles away. I do wish there was a local hobby shop but that went by the wayside when we chose to live in our little paradise. Take care my friend.
  22. That's what I said. In the case of the Wings kit 1/32 scale B-25's I pre-ordered the kit with the understanding that it was not releassed yet and the price may go up. I had no problem with that. The next day I discovered that the pre-order had been processed and charged to my card. When I complained I got a snide response and the offer to cancel the oirder. I took them up on that. That was in the time frame of the initial announcement of the kit by the potential manufacturer. A looonggg time ago. Since then the initial manufacturer has gone belly up and said it the Wings line may be released in the future by another manufacturer. That, also, was a looongg time ago. A short time ago I received a note from Sprue Bro's announcing the kit line had been canceled and so had my order. Fortunately I had canceled the order shortly after the initial placement. Had I not canceled it at that time, I would have been placing over $100 into the Sprue Bro's coffers at an interest free loan for the time from order placement until last week or so. Sorry I cannot remember the dates as this stretched out for a long time. Another example is when Zoukei-mura announced the 1/32 Shinden. The release date was for "Fall 209" It was announced in the early Spring. I ordered it from the US distributor (Volks Intenational) and found that my card had been charged within a day or so. I called and canceled the order after discussion and a series of e-mails. As it turned out, I would have made them an interest free loan for at least 6-months and probably more. I ordered the kit when it was actually on the market. Dragon USA and Great Models are now entering this game. So with th current economy in mind not only are you making an interest free loan to help out with the business operating and inventory expense, cost of doing business, but you have the potential of waving your money good bye completely.
  23. They were one of the ones on my list. Great Models, with whom I havde long been a customer is now up to the same practice. I had a long conversation with Loic in Omaha He obviousdly saw no problem with it and thought he was doing us a favor by offering product at a lower price for pre-orders. The Tamiya P-51 pricing did not, however prove that out. Dragon has been doing the same thing lately and the lesser one is the US branch for Zoukei-mura (Volks USA). SZoukei-mura does the 1/32 Shinden, Ta 152H-1, etc. By the way, if you are interested, Dragon has shipped me a Great Wall 1/48 P-61 and I should be receiving it in a day or so. i.e it's now in-country and available. GMW won't haved it until next week or more according to their web site. I am shiftng most of my business to Squadron becaaue they do not charge until product ships - so far. Vendors take note.
  24. Confirmed in your link: Prep is foremost to good painting and paint binding. True in house painting and model building. Also I suspect you are aware, but there are different blue tapes. One of them is low tack and has less of a tendency to pull paint up. I once saw an article about a green colored (Gator tape?) which was purported to give a razor edge finish. It woreked great for the painter who did our interior. I tried it on a model and itlifted the paint at the ewdges. It had a higher tack than was tolerated on the acrylic model paint. Any paint needs something to grip. If the plastic is shiny smooth it won't adhere well. Prep the surface. Use a primer.
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