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Posts posted by TheWalrus

  1. After reading the initial description I remain confused and am trying to picture the concept. Are you suggesting a cap for the paint pot which has a nipple on it for a plastic tube which would lead to a used paint reservoir? That could actually make some sense in that it would be useful to prevent a mess when back-flushing.

  2. Not to mention Micro-mark http://www.micromark.com/table-top-airbrush-cleaning-station,9625.html


    On sale at $20 less than Testors and a better gizmo. I have one that I bought at Omaha. Has anti-tipping handle (removable), replacable air filter and is more universal than Testors. The bowl is also glass and heaqvy enough to make it fairly stable. Item sold by art supply stores and by different airbrush companies; for example Iwata. Highly recommended review material.


    Not a closed system, but nobody makes them. A closed system would mean that the circuit is re-circulating. Means re-using cleaner. Kind of like changing your automobile oil but not the filter. On top of that the subject cleaning device has no problem with using different thinning medias for those of us who use different color medias depending on what we are doing at the time.

  3. There's also an old Reheat T-33 pe set, but it may be hard to find. The instrument panels wouldn't be right, but most of the other stuff would be usable. Actually, if you wait 2-3 months, I'm betting there will be some aftermarket put out for that kit, as well as some aftermarket decals.


    GIL :smiley16:

    Found this set on the I-net with google search. The set is about $US40.00 w/s&h. I pass and will wait for aftermarket but going to get it started. The p.e. is not bad at all. Includes very well done side consoles and the usual bits that you can see with a 20x magnifier. Has some nice touches and the cockpit appears to be so tight that a lot would not be seen anyway.
  4. Wikiipedia: "Navigation lighting systems include:

    • Right-of-way lights - A red light will be mounted on the left or port side of the craft and a green on the right or starboard side. These help two craft in a situation in which their paths cross determine who has right-of-way. When two vessels have crossing paths, each will see a red or green running light. The one on the port side of the other, which must yield right of way, will see red, while the one on the starboard side of the other, which has right of way, will see green."

    Landing lights are not navigation lights. They face forward and may be extended as part of the a/c landing gear or wing mounted or nose mounting.


    There is also a small tail light mounted on the back of the a/c and typically on the rudder or vertical stabilizer tip. If you seet an equal distance between the tail and the port/starboard lights you are directly behind the a/c. If the distances are unequal it gives you an idea of the direction and angle as opposed to your line of flight.


    During the Big One it was not unusual to see a/c recognition lights mounted on the underside of the a/c. usually a wing. These were used when flying close to the ground, such as landing and take off and were lit in a (code of the day) coded sequence. It's not cool to get shot down by your own defenses when returning from a mission blasting enemy armour and wheelies to smithereens.


    BTW there are no top and bottom navigation lights per se. There may be two lamps in some configurations but they would maintain the same colours port and starboard. Armoured vehicle crews found this particularly vexing because they understood that the lights would be different colours to help them hide. This was not the case, as they found out when being blasted to smithereens.

  5. Here is an article that Phil Brandt wrote on his F-94C.




    He says,"True Details T-33 seats were used because they're very close to those of the F-94C and because they've got nicely molded seat belt assemblies."


    At the time, I believe Lockheed and others were making their own seats. These might not be so deadly reproduced for the modeling aftermarket so maybe F-80 or T-33 seat are "close enough."



    Works for me. Thanks for article and info. Seats are on order.
  6. Just got my Kittyhawk Models kit of the F-94C. Nicely done on preliminary viewing, but was wondering if there are any aftermarket cockpit items that might work. The seats, especially, are nice, but I suspect aftermarket resin will look even better. Other than that the cockpit looks nice. Rest of kit is very nice in appearance. Haven't done any dry-fitting yet. Very fine panel line and rivet engraving.


    Can't wait to get started but still fighting the Great Wall 1:48 Devastator. Most problems are self-inflicted. I am taping the canopy glazing now.

  7. Wow. Thanks for the description. It will be on my next year's list if I can get a good airfare. Sounds like a lot of fun.


    Thank you for taking the time to reply. And thank-you to Squadron I buy from them often and they do rock.

  8. Hmmm.....we do have Deb's tanning bed over on one side of Gil World......maybe it's time to tuck that canopy in there for an hour or so! :smiley16:


    Someone also suggested trying Simple Green, and since I need it to strip my last car paint job, I might as well get some. By the way, does anyone know what voodoo hex you have to chant after killing a chicken at 2am on a moonless night in a month without an "R"....so I can spray GLOSS paint!! :blink:


    Thanks for the encouraging words guys! I actually got the nose gear built tonight (@3 hours of work), but will wait to post pics until after I get the main gear built (hopefully tomorrow).


    By the way....I claim to be the master of nothing, except perhaps persistence! :P


    GIL :smiley16:

    I saw a hint & tip one time recently which said if you want a really super gloss you should add a little Future to the gloss paint. Haven't tried it. If you do I would like to know how it works. If I don't blow my brains out on my self inflicted problems with the Devastator I may take on an F-1 car or such. Then I will try that hint.
  9. I discovered something the other day about the superglue genre of adhesives.


    Don't co-locate cyano's with accelerators. I made the mistake of doing that and each of the cyano's was cured hard as a rock. Several of the bottles were never opened, and the accelerator was covered with its cap. Apparently on a submolecular level the stuff can pass through plastic and contaminate or cause the superglue to react.


    Expensive lesson indeed. Wasted 3 larger bottles of cyanoacrylics.

  10. Hmmmm......


    I have a lot (I know I need only one or two but they are cool).


    I have:


    Badger Sotar 20/20- super fine detail, great for figures- I have two of them

    Badger Velocity- Great for detail and for camo patterns, cheaper replacement parts than the Sotar- I have two of these also

    Iwata Revolution- Won it at a raffle, tried it and it was OK

    Badger 150- Won this at a raffle also, it is OK. Like the Velocity better

    Paasche H- my first and still a favorite for flat coating and base coats. A true work horse


    I use a compressor but could go to a cylinder later



    Go with CO2 cylinders. You'll never go back. Quiet; no micro-pulsing pressure; easier to finely regulate; you can make a manifold and have all your brushes connected at once and ready to use. And most of all - they are "cool" and your friends will be impressed. :smiley29:


    Oh, did I mention no need for a water trap or air filtration. In this area with higher humidity I always had trouble with water droplets condensing from the compressor output.

  11. After carefully reading the description on the "what's new" page on the Squadron site I see it described as "multi-media". Doesn't look like that includes plastic. Description lists resin, vacuforms, etc. Tiny photo that accompanies the description seems to confirm. Might explain the $105 "discounted" pricing.


    So......, I'm still thinkin' on it.

  12. Can anyone give a candid detailed description of the event from an attendees viewpoint? I actually considered attending this year, but it's a long trip to travel without having an idea of the value. Would you say it is worth traveling to from Seattle are considering expense of airfair, admission cost, meals and lodging?

  13. Check the Hobbylink.com website. You will find a bunch of Cobra's including the Daytona. I was poking around there for stuff and came across it. 1/24, too!


    By the way, they say they are in-stock, and I also notice that you will need to get a second or third mortgage!

  14. CIC dug it out of my stash in garage. Sorry it's 1:16 scale but may be the best you'll get - if you can find it.


    David, the 1/16 MPC/AMT kit is a garden variety 427 Cobra; the original request was for a kit of a Cobra Daytona.


    The Daytona was an early Cobra with custom bodywork developed for racing at LeMans. The difference in body work is well beyond simple scratch building. You can see an image here: https://encrypted-tb...YxwEoOZ9nnL_9Pe Gunze did one long ago in 1/24 that is rare as hen's teeth, and there have been a few cottage industry kits.


    BTW, the MPC kit is a pretty nice kit and has been reissued fairly regularly over the years - I'm sure you can find one on ebay or at vendor tables if you look a bit.



    Well, it is a car, it has 4-wheels and says Cobra. After that they all look alike to me! :smiley29:


    I do appreciate your educating me on the difference. Both are pretty cool. I saw a bio on Carrol Shelby on one of the satelite channels around the time that he passed away. Really interesting. A true American entrepenuer and car designer. Bio said the car blew the doors off anything in Europe and left the Corvettes in the dust on this side of the pond. I rarely build cars, but have kept this one out and am going to give it a shot. Any hints on realistic colors for engine, interior and such? I think the chrome parts are really fakey looking and may make them over with Alclad II chrome.


    Thanks again. Also thanks to Eric for piqueing my interest in a change from my current frustrations with the wingy things.l

  15. I do believe it was a company called MPC. They did cars and trucks as I recall. I think there is one in my stash.

    I do believe it was a company called MPC. They did cars and trucks as I recall. I think there is one in my stash.

    CIC dug it out of my stash in garage. Sorry it's 1:16 scale but may be the best you'll get - if you can find it.
  16. A long time ago, back when MPC made Star Wars kits and also reboxed Airfix kits, I used those little Golden Opportunity (wings, wheels, stripes or anchors) that you cut from the side of the box to send in for a free 1/24 scale USMC Harrier. That was a huge, impressive kit, with a little bit of fit issues. I built it while still in college so around 1984-85 or so. I think it was an AV-8A.

    Reboxed Airfix kit. I think they did it for all the Airfix 1/24's, but maybe not. I do know that they did the P-51 also from Airfix.

  17. FYI. I see Pacific Coast Models lists them in stock. Newsletter says "Tasca's new M32B1 Tank Recovery Vehicle (TA 35-026) now in stock! Check inside for instruction sheet correction."


    By the way, I checked out the link and really like the green/tourquoise/grey/white scheme. It's gorgeous! :smiley29: :army8:

    By the way #2. Reason for this post is to point out that Tasca has apparently updated the instruction sheet.

  18. I know that the Monogram kits are good for their day and still carry their ages well. But, I too, am one who just can't gert into a sanding off raised lines and then rescribing them. Goes the same for any extensive mods or re-shaping. At least at this point in my pathetic pursuit of this hobby. No patience (I'm working on it) and deteriorating motor skills along with fading eyesight. This is a young man's hobby populated by mostly us old geezers. Now, where did I put my Grecian Formula hair stuff?? :smiley29:

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