hotel26
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Posts posted by hotel26
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I'm doing the Hasegawa 48th scale Raptor and reading up on all the techniques on getting the paint job right.
The one thing they all have in common is how complicated they all are.
Here's the easy peasy way I figured out.
Mix 3 parts future to one part Tamiya X-32 Titanium silver or 31 gold, shake like crazy and leave over night for the sediment to settle.
Siphon off the clearer liquid and spray a few coats over the base paint and viola, a very subtle silver/gold hue when viewed in various light conditions and angles etc.
This also is good canopy tint, very subtle.
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how about the old trick of adding talcom powder to the paint.
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Spitfire definately but do consider the Mosquito as a close second.
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Get the leveling thinner, it has a retarder mixed in and I've never had the cotton candy thing happen.
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I try to paint as much on the tree as I can, things such as ships hulls or tank hulls I do when they're filled and sanded.
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I too like Tamiya paints, their Nato armour colours are awesome and on militairy aircraft and vehicles thin with 95% Isopropol is both cheap and ok.
If your doing a job that requires gloss you do need to use their expensive thinners.
I also found that the screw thread on their jars are an exact match for the badger pot adapter as long as you trim the tube to fit so keep the jars after you've used the paint.
As far as the Acryl and Acryl2 line of paints go you must use a primer as they don't adhere well though Tamiya is prone to being easily scratched it tends not to lift.
Also, if you want to brush paint Tamiya you must thin with their thinners and only make one pass of the brush otherwise it will lift and go funky.
As an aside I also experimented with Humbrol Acrylics, they don't do too well in an airbrush; clogging, but properly thinned they go down very well and their flats are dead flat.
If I could get their stuff here in the states I would switch.
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What do you use to stir the paint in those small jars? I use plastic coffee stir sticks.
I cut a bit of the sprue from the kit I'm making, 4" usually does the trick and you've already paid for it so may as well use it.
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Everyone,
Thanks for the input!
I have a bottle of MM US Armour Sand in the paint box, so I will take a look at it tonight.
I was initially going for the Tamiya acrylic route, but am now a little concerned about the paint crinkling up, as I use rattle can Tamiya clear gloss to prep my models for decals. I am aware of the time-honored "lacquer, then enamel, then acrylic" rule, but I have violated that rule many times in the past. But I never tried applying Tamiya spray lacquer over their acrylics. Does anyone have experience in the matter?
Oops, drifting off topic here. And I think I hear the Paint Compatibility Police knocking on my door.
Neal "breaking the law, breaking the law" Izumi
Hemp is one of those colours that change with the light and time of day.
I was with 101 sqn tankers that where painted Hemp and it ranged from a greenish hue in broad daylight to a very pinkish hue at sun up.
I don't know how on earth anyone can critisize as long as it's close.
If the colour Po Po arrest you send them to me, I'll set them straight.
I wouldn't rattle can over Tamiya Acrylic, I'm sure it can be done in mist coats but the chances for disaster on a great paint job are to great.
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Try MM 1704 US Armour sand, damn close or Tamiya XF-57 but add some olive drab to give it a greenish hue.
FS is somewhere between XX271 through XX531.
I'd go with MM #1704 and tell the Colour Police that they need a warrant and evidence.
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If you didn't gleen it from the previous responses, don't expect a gloss color coat from acrylics. Clear is always required in my experience.
Not true, if you use Tamiya thinners(X-20A) to thin their gloss colours it works great.
If you thin them with Isopropol then they go on flat, I use 95% Isopropol and Tamiya paints cover great and dry to the touch in minutes; just not as bullet proof as Gunze.
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Is there a liquid mask out there that won't attack the Future? I'd like to attack the past to change the future, but that's a whole 'nother thread, and would be OT here.... Michael Vinson IPMS/Quad Cities
Liquid masking film by Bob Dively model aircraft inc. is good to go on any cured surface including Future, I get mine at the LHS but here's the phone number for you 1-800-752-1650 extension 23..... took this of my bottle.
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You need to use a filter, it's much like a wash but not quite.
http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/..._weathering.htm
http://missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm
There was one that showed how to tie cammo colours on airplanes but I can't find the link.
These should help though.
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I'd like to start me El Alamein British Sherman soon. What's a good enamel to represent the Desert Pink that they used at that time?
Thanks,
The exact shade is open to debate so you could mix your own using a dessert sand/stone and a few drops of red.
It was officially/un-officially Mountbatten pink.
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Not super fast but several applications of white glue works on wing joints for me.
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Here in town a comic shop has just started stocking this brand and I passed when I saw bottles of retarder, I'll stick to Tamiya and MM me thinks.
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Two that haven't been mentioned yet.
Soldier and Dark Star.
My number three would have to be one of the early B&W Dr Who and the Daleks movies.
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Hello, I am just a new member and my dad has purchased this F-15E by Tamiya. Does anyone as a member have any feedback? Or any share wisdom that may be helpful. As you know I just posted my first built model with my father C-17A Globemaster III. I only glued the engine and painted the wheels. It took me and my dad 4 months to complete..
If it's in 1/32nd scale it will take a while.
Careful with the cockpit/nose and fuselage fit and also watch for the intake interior.
The big Tamiya kits, except the F-16 and Zero; aren't shake and bake kits.
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Thanks for the link & info guys!
I never knew this existed!
Has anyone ever used it? How are the results?
I have and the software is pretty useless.
Scan and go with MS paint for the cheap solution, my fave cheap
Also let the ink dry before spraying the sealer.
And do a test print on regular paper to make sure the size is correct.
You must also trim pretty close to your decal.
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Nice Corsair.
What else you up to Gil?
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Sorry Tomk, the Cessna 172 is the most built at 43000 units and counting.
Second is the PO2 at 40k units, then IL2 at 36130 followed closely by the BF109 with 35000 approx.
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Very nice build.
I can remember the first gr5 doing a display at the RCDS in the 80's, awesomely loud.
I cut my modelling molars on Airfix and I'm excited that they're back producing some great kits.
I only wish I could get Humbrol paints more readily as they brush paint a dream.
Back to work, a Nimrod is calling.
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I got this of Swanny's site.
Decant Krylon #1601 gloss black and airbrush it on.
Worked like a charm, dried quickly and cured over night, real glossy and above all....... cheap.
I still have a can from a year or so ago that's still nearly full.
Wash that tank Help
in Armor
Posted
I use Mr Color leveling thinner for mr color paints as it has a leveler built in, pricey though.
You can use laquer thinners but people have had problems with stringing.
Laquer thinners will work with almost any oil based enamels and some say it'll work well with Tamiya acrylics but I prefer Isopropol alcohol with those.
Just be aware that laquer thinners evaporate rapidly so adjust your pressure and shorten the distance between the model and the air brush, practice on a piece of scrap before committing to a model as you can't undo errors with laquer as it really etches itself into the surface of the plastic.
Of course that's why we use it, more robust finnish.