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Everything posted by Highlander

  1. In general, I have found that you should let any coat of anything you put on a model dry for at least 24 hours. 72 hours for oils. The problem usually is that you don't want to add weeks to a build just letting stuff dry. So you find ways of speeding things up. Often by reducing your wait time for drying. As I'm doing right now on a 1/72 scale Sherman's clear coats, which I've let dry for as little as three hours. You don't have to do this, but you should. You can learn your materials and develop techniques where you don't need to, but you should. Because, eventually, you will discover that you really should have.
  2. And they call golf a masochists's game. Yesterday, I discovered some sort of streak on the side of a Sherman I am just about to finish. As if the clear coat lifted. I have no idea where it came from or how it happened. So, now the fine grit sanding paper and patience, a characteristic that I lack. And somewhere on the floor of my model room are, not one, but two BA-64 grab handles. Unsucessful in scratch building a replacement, I have now purchased my third kit just for one teeny-tiney, incredibly fragile part with the ability to fly on its own and hide in plain sight.
  3. Sierra Hotel! How did you do that incredible blanket?
  4. Highlander

    The Ronin

    Got my first bust -- a Viking. Hope I can do as well.
  5. Impressive. Especially the chainwork.
  6. Hmmm. Another interesting IPMS unwritten rule. I don't know anywhere in the rules where the size of a model is to be a consideration. Just the quality of the build. But I wouldn't be surprised.
  7. Had a discussion on the topic of a permanent Nats site just this afternoon at our local B&M. The consensus was that, if it happened, it would be in the East due to population density. Which would leave a number of us in the West permanently out of attending. Which would leave a number of those to conclude that, since anybody, IPMS member or not, can be an IPMS chapter member and can attend local and Regional contests, then there would be no reason to be an IPMS member.
  8. Great job. And with that kit.
  9. So, the convention site will be in the city of Columbia? Correct?
  10. Amen on the ships, brah. I have a couple that I purchased as an intro for shipbuilding. After hours of examination, I cannot figure out how to fold the PE. And, for a couple of the smaller ships, there are absolutely no instructions on where to put the PE. Or what the PE is supposed to represent.
  11. I learned a long time ago to not make any comments, other than genuinely positive ones, when viewing models. Hoverers generally are not appreciative. They are often defensive and sometimes hostile. Once it got to the "step outside" point. So my approach has become, "If you can't say something nice about......".
  12. For whatever it's worth, I always thin every paint I ever use. It is a bit obsessive, but I would rather deal with paint that is too thin than paint that is too thick. If I'm in doubt, I use one or two drops until I'm sure that the mix is going to work. And I always have a surface (old model or paper or wood) that I hit with the airbrush before I hit the model -- every time I fiddle with anything -- brush adjustment, paint mix, after the brush has been sitting for a minute or so. So, I don't put paint on a model until I'm sure that the mix is going to work.
  13. All excellent points. Thanks for taking the time to point me in several right directions. I have noticed that kicker can discolor both the superglue and, sometimes, the surrounding plastic. As well as introducing bubbles.
  14. Thanks. My next experiment will be with baking soda. I want to see if it sands smoother than talc. I'll take the heating phenomenon into account. BTW, I quit using zip kicker - except when I am using glue to tack two surfaces together. I like to sand before the glue is completely, totally set and zip kicker seems to create a cure that is harder than normal curing. And, therefore, harder to sand.
  15. Estoy de acuerdo. I also lose interest after I have completed a kit and entered it in several contests. My interest shift to the next kit I am building. Espero que comprende mi espanol pobre.
  16. Contestants who enter well after the entry deadline and the head judge who permits it. I recall a Nats in which a modeler, staying in the convention hotel and who had been present for the previous two days, showing up over an hour after judging began. We had to rejudge every category in which he had belatedly entered a model. I also recall a major regional contest in which judging was delayed for over three hours because some modelers had called in and complained that traffic was delaying their arrival. Others coming from their area left for the contest earlier and had no trouble being on time. There were people removing their models and leaving before judging finished. Their were judges who removed themselves from judging. And there were contestants who removed their models and departed before the results were announced.
  17. Oh, yes. Or who haven't washed their clothes after several weeks of wear. Even with glue marks, misaligned parts, bent photoetch, out of scale modifications. "But it's scratchbult!" Which is related to the -- "I spend (a very large number) of hours on this build so It deserves a trophy" -- argument. Yes. And, on the opposite end of the spectrum, documentation that equals a volume or two of the Encyclopedia Britianica. Which is related to the scratchbuilt and number of hours arguments for trophies. And modelers who overtly politic for their entry -- the modeler who camps out by his entry and explains in excruciating detail why it is the best on the table. I would add "campers" -- like the guy who placed a chair by his entry at a Nationals so he could politic for his entry without cease for two days. I would add contest room samurai -- the modelers who accost judges after the results are announced and demand to explain why the judges' evaluation of their model is completely wrong.
  18. I have been using a kit as a testbed for new techniques. This week I decided to apply the technique of mising some sort of powder with cyanocrylate as a filler. Somehow I remembered that the technique called for talcum powder. After applying it, with OK results, I then wondered if the technique actually called for baking soda. So, in the great tradition of dumbass questions, which is it? Or is it both? And which, if both, gives the smoothest sanding result?
  19. Fine, fine, superfine. Great in so many ways. The organization and work showed in the flawless execution of the Nats. Best Nats I've attended.
  20. Me too. They had some great subjects. I wondered what had happened.
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