Jump to content

ClareWentzel

Moderator-at-large
  • Content Count

    1,038
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Gil, Gil, Gil, :rolleyes:

     

    I love SNJ powder but you have to be a little careful. The reason that I asked the question in the first place is that I tried a similar approach with an SNJ finished model, complete with powder. I expected the transparent decal to disappear but it didn't.

     

    I-400.jpg

  2. OK. Just to bring everyone up to date. I painted the Alclad over my still slightly tacky black alclad primer. The Alclad dried very hard and smooth.

     

    Shooting_Star.jpg

     

    Now I am ready for the next step - applying decals. I would suppose that you can apply decals directly over the Alclad but I want to be sure. On a normal model, I would apply a coat of Future to make sure that the clear parts of decals disappear. I would think that the surface of the Alclad would also make the transparent decal areas disappear but I have seem problems on other NMF models.

     

    So the basic question is; Can I apply decals directly over Alclad or do I need to apply a coat of Future to make sure that the transparent areas disappear and/or do not change the tone of the Alclad.

  3. Mike,

    Heat & Smash is a simplified method of simulating a vacu-formed part. I suspect that most people who use the technique, use it to make canopy parts. If you have any old issues of the Squadron catalog, they usually show how to "Heat & Smash". Page 95 of the 2006 catalog shows the technique.

     

    You start with a piece of styrene sheet. Squadron sells clear sheets for the purpose. First, you make a master. For a canopy, it can be the thick kit part that you want to replace. Mount the master solidly. Usually I fill the canopy with clay and then stick a dowel in the clay and clamp it in a vise. Then, you take a sheet of the plastic and hold it over a candle. As the material heats, it will sag slightly in the center. When it is suitably soft, pull the plastic down over the master. Use your fingers to force the plastic down over the canopy frames if necessary.

     

    When the plastic is cool, cut your new part out and then finish and mount it. I will use the technique when I want to show an open canopy and the kit comes with a closed one. Simply use the "Heat & Smash" part for the rear and the kit part for the front.

     

    I suppose you could use the same technique for such things as gear doors etc. HTH.

  4. Thanks all for the comments. I have come to the conclusion that I have a bad batch of primer. I have had it in my spray booth for 4over 4 days with the fan on. The model is still slightly tacky. I am just going to apply the Alclad and see how it works. The model is just an old F-80 for Paul Bradley's display at next year's nats.

     

    Jim, will you be attending the nats this year?

  5. Tim, one basic question. Why do you want to attach the model permanently to the base? I usually use bases for my models but except for my P-38, I do not attach any of them to the base. I have never had any problems with people or judges picking the base up and dropping the model.

     

    My P-38 is pinned to it's base through the front wheel only. Also, the wheel is not glued to the strut. When I move the model, it is separate from the base and I stick the wheel onto the strut at the contest or meeting etc.

     

  6. ....but you know I haven't the patience to wait 3 days for ANYTHING to dry, LOL!

     

    That's me exactly. I figured that since I was using Alclad, I might as well do it as they recommend. Since it was supposedly lacquer based, how slow can it dry. At least your comment gives me hope. I don't need to start removing the stuff.....now.

  7. I'm not ready for this years Nats, but mabye next year I will have a model worthy.

     

    It sounds like you are doing everything right to fine tune your modeling skills. I have two minor suggestions also. First, if feasible, find a local club and meet with people like yourself. Every club that I have known has modelers of all levels and everyone loves to first, ohh and ahh over your models and then give you some very good tips on how to improve the model or make your modeling easier.

     

    The second thing is to remember that you only have to please one person with your models - yourself. If you are happy with your latest model, that is the only important thing. Along those lines, take your models to any contests that are handy, including the Nationals. I, personally, enjoy seeing my models setting on the tables alongside all the other models. Mentally, I can say that my models are better then some while others are probably better then mine. I have been building models for many, many years and sometimes take some prizes at local meets but I expect that I will never win a Nationals prize. That does not prevent me from taking my latest "kids" to the contest to look at them on the table.

     

    Hope you really enjoy the hobby.

  8. Looks pretty good.

     

    Is that NIVO homegrown?

     

    Not really. Surprising enough, I followed the Roden recommendations. They call for Model Master 2050. Roden call the color Matt WWI Green although Model Master call it Olive Drab ANA 615. It seems to be within the range of colors recommended by many references. In any case, I like to have a little variation between similar models on the shelf.

  9. Someone might as well start this topic. It is also a learning experience with the new board. I finally got the landing gear mounted and hope to make some real progress in finishing my Comic Fighter. I can never build one over the weekend like Kelly. I seem to go in little steps - interior, general assembly, details and finishing. Biplanes seem to be more of a problem. I guess I have to work up my nerve. Now, I have the two tough items finished, top wing and landing gear. Now for the details, decals and finally the rigging. Stay tuned.

     

    Comic_02.jpg

     

    Comic_03.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...