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optimator

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Posts posted by optimator


  1. ClareWentzel, I do almost the same except put the laquer thinner in a vinyl empty margarine container. I dip the head of the brush in there and while running at low pressure I will constantly take my finger on and off the nozzle to back feed. Then I put the cleaned needle back in exactly the way it came out. The thinner goes back in the large jar for use again as the sediment will collect on the bottom.


  2.  

    QUOTE (ghodges @ Apr 30 2010, 07:26 PM)

    The old Pactra clear flat was the best way back when......Now I fnd Testors Dullcoat is generally the flatest stuff I can get. I'll be watching this with interest!

     

    GIL smiley16.gif

     

    Gil,

     

    I suspect you may be right, I just don't like what Testors does to some colors are far as its golden tint.

     

    That golden tint is simply yellowing, and is especially noticable on white areas.


  3. Sealed correctly paints will last forever, and that's a long time. When your done using the paint, put in a little thinner. Then a little butter on the threads, or on the pop down lid edges. I've got some French Modelcolor paints from the mid 70's that were still good last time I looked. The butter not only will seal, you'll be able to open it next time you want to use that color.


  4. I've used this technique on everything except water based paints which I don't use. Dedicate a specific glass jar for cleaning and put in a half quart of Laquer thinner. Find a vinyl plastic butter container, empty of course, and fill half way with the laquer thinner. Take out the needle (be sure you have a mark on top of the needle so when you return it to the airbrush it's in the same position) and wipe it clean. Put your air pressure on around 10 pounds and immerse the front of the airbrush into the container of thinner. As the thinner goes thru the airbrush put your finger on and off over the nozzle so it back feeds. Do that till its clean. Then run a dedicated pipe cleaner through to the end of the barrel a few times. Then put the needle back in using the mark you made on it to center it. When you look at the airbrush head on the needle should always be exactly in the center of the tip. If needed slightly bend the needle and insert again and repeat until it is in the center of the tip. Sounds like work, but the more you do it the quicker and easier it is to do. When you're done pour the laquer thinner back into its container. Any sediment will settle to the bottom. then take a paper towel and wipe the vinyl butter container and put away.


  5. One thing y'all need to remember is that flourescent lights don't give you an accurate portrayal of colors. The bright lights washes them out and they will look completely different than under incandescent bulbs. Flourescents definitely provide the ebst working light for assembly and other construction related tasks. The best way to do it is to have a regular blub lamp on the desk to work under with painting and mixing colors. That way when your model is displayed it will be more accurate and you won't get a nasty surprise when your NATO camoflagued tank looks like the Ronald McDonald mobile.

     

    Also, paint under the same light you're going to display under. Once you have a standard you have to stay with it. For example, you can find flourescents that duplicate the Kelvin temperature of incandescents be they daylight, softwhite or whatever. Don't ever try and improve on the foot candle levels you'll find outside in bright daylight -- it's easier to lighten you paints to conform! For further study I'd suggest browsing in: http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_ligh...rn_about_light/


  6. I recently picked up a 10 Fl. oz. bottle of Meguiar's PlastX clear plastic cleaner & Polish. The product is made to restore clear plastic "On headlight lenses, convertible windows, scratched CD surfaces and hard plexiglass. Put this in your workshop for four bucks and it'll make those canopies clear in a few minutes, not to mention your headlite lenses. It's quick and easy to use.

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