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Stikpusher

IPMS/USA Member
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Posts posted by Stikpusher

  1. 26 minutes ago, Ralph Nardone said:

    there is literally NOTHING Testors marketed than cannot be found elsewhere. 

    I’m still looking to find something to replace their “universal” airbrush thinners, both enamel and acrylic, as well as their airbrush cleaner. I know that there is no such thing as a universal acrylic thinner, due to different formulations between the various companies. But for acrylics that did not need an alcohol based thinner, that stuff worked ok. And the cleaner worked excellent, without the heavy odor of lacquer thinner or acetone. Their enamel thinner gave enamel paints a little more “bite” so to speak, when I airbrush that type of paint. Certainly superior to other enamel thinners that I had used in the past. Ah well. 
     

    I know that they’re gone, and that my search for those product replacements, for the time being, will continue.

  2. Sad but true. It’s like Testors turned back the clock to the 1970s and all that’s left is what they sold then- square bottle enamels, tube and liquid cement, etc. Rustoleum/RPM gobbled up all of their US based hobby paint competitors thru mergers/acquisitions, then discontinued those companies. Sad days for us modelers in that respect. Ah well, at least we have other sources for products available.

  3. If you have not used a decal solvent in it yet, apply decal set, try refloating and repositioning the decals to minimize or correct the tears. The longer that the decal sits, the harder that is to do.

  4. The last few days I have been working on painting interior parts, mainly the wheel wells, and getting parts ready to be glued inside the fuselage.

    776999-EE-FB04-4646-89-D4-A4-BF845-FE742

    and then next thing ya know, it is starting to look like an aircraft... somewhat...

    AE8-A2288-F587-4-DAB-AB9-D-265-B9-B37179

    and some close ups of the cockpit and nose wheel well

    6382246-B-2553-482-B-9-A5-D-C1-B3-FA249-

    3-D318-D14-634-B-4-C9-A-A06-E-1525-BFCF5

    next comes seam clean up...

  5. Thanks Mark. Those decals sure made the IP look better than I could paint it up. And of course, even with the cockpit open and unoccupied, they will be hard to see. Ah well...

    Well yesterday I finally finished up paint and decal work in the cockpit. 

    0774976-D-A700-4295-9-A0-F-BBE0-D5-C1068

    and for a little scale reference, the obligatory giant penny

    95561888-A54-C-4-AA8-80-EF-6-E17928-FFA4

    6064-A7-EA-A751-4333-9-E4-C-F530-F45-BDE

    now I just have the wheel wells and intake area to deal with before I can get the fuselage closed up.

    • Like 1
  6. Over the past couple of days, the mailman brought these two Zoukei Mura aircraft display bases that I had ordered.

    First up is a 1/32 US WWII thru Vietnam era wooden carrier deck. Too bad that they did the colors wrong, as US carrier flight decks were never in natural wood. Pre war had Mahogany stain, during WWII they were stained Blue, and post they were Dark Gray and Non Skid Black depending upon the area of the deck. So I’ll need to repaint this one.

    88-D89592-8591-4-EBB-8611-EB16-B0-BF4988

    Then I also ordered this 1/48 US “Supercarrier” type deck, which is beautifully detailed!!! No changes needed, aside from perhaps the addition of an arresting cable, as they did provide one anchor point for one end.

    280-C7-F8-E-F48-E-43-FC-AEC6-DD091-A83-B

    0639-B9-A9-2505-469-C-97-BB-2-DE4-D6-DB1

    and of course I had to do a quick photo with an aircraft in place....

    E5-DF8-E26-47-DA-4635-B6-B5-135-E0-DCB14

  7. I hear ya Mark. The modeling muses are not always calling me either to my workbench when I have nothing else going on. Or when they do, my progress is minimal...

    I’m still working in the cockpit here....

    Finished up the ejection seat

    CE55-D19-D-CED2-431-F-9811-FEBC34-E4-E77

    and I started adding the Airscale instrument decals to the panel

    7256-D76-B-E2-FF-49-B8-85-E2-6495-E46-F7

    The IP decals are going to be something of a slow process...

    • Like 1
  8. No worries. Most every one of here has made some similar error in our model building past. This hobby is supposed to be relaxing. But sometimes it is anything opposite that. 
    If you haven’t built a Dragon kit yet, just wait until you get to one of those. THEN you will really wonder what someone has been smoking... 🤨

  9. Oils, with Mona Lisa thinner, work fine on top of both enamels or acrylics. That thinner is mild enough to not attack the enamels as long as the paint has dried and cured. Usually that is at least 24 hours depending upon temperatures and humidity. You should have zero problems of bad interactions between oils as your washes and acrylics as the base coat.

  10. Mark, it’s always good to see your latest additions for your motor pool here. That’s a nice pair of completions. Of course I’m a fan of most anything in Russian Green with a Guards unit insignia on the side.

    Well done my friend!

  11. I love it! A beautiful classic Monogram OOB build! And quite a clever idea, I might add, to turn the mold ejection pin marks into some sort of intended detail, even if it is fictitious. Sheriff Bart and the Waco Kid would approve of your improvisation.

  12. To add to what Gil said about gloss and applying Future if needed, it’s a good idea to coat the whole tank. Otherwise the area will stand out, even with a flat coat on top of the Futured area. Applying a coat of Future over the whole tank, after getting the decal snuggled down with Future as suggested by Gil, will give the whole tank an even tone. 

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