Nick Filippone

It looks like it’s supposed to be a Yak 25 Flashlight. But based on the box art (and I use that term advisedly) it is either hopelessly inaccurate or some obscure Russian prototype. This kit makes the legendary Aurora MiG 19 look like a Tamiya product. If this is supposed to be a Yak 25, you would be better served by the old Revell kit. Good luck! Nick

If you Google : “ U.S. yellow ID letters and numbers decals 1/72 scale” you will find, as I did, several options. Nick

No, but I play one on T.V.! 😼 Sorry, I couldn’t resist. Yes, I am a practicing physician and surgeon.

Yes. Modify the peg and/or locating hole and turn it around. Kit designers and mold makers are only human. Part of what makes us modelers and not just assemblers is identifying their mistakes and fixing them! Nick Filippone

Boy, Gil, have you got a good memory! The drop tank on the 1/48 Monogram Spitfire IX never occurred to me until you mentioned it. I also now recall-if memory serves- that that kit had retractable landing gear, as I believe the 109 in that series also had. Still, it seems odd that Monogram chose a Spitfire with a drop tank as it is not a feature often associated with any Spitfire, as Ron has suggested. Perhaps by chance, they were working from a particular photo of a not so usual variant of the IX. My other thought was this: could they have started designing the kit with the idea of an operable “ gimmick” such as the bomb dropping mechanisms in some of the other kits in this series such as the Dauntless and the Helldiver, but than gave up on incorporating it in the final design? Nick

If you Google “Spitfire drops tanks” a lot of info and photos come up. In particular, Spitfires were equipped with drop tanks for ferrying flights to Malta. Perhaps that is what the author was referring to. Nick Filippone

According to the prospectus distributed by the Omaha representatives at the 2019 National Bids Presentations, if Omaha was awarded the 2022 National Convention, ( which, obviously, we now know they were), the dates would be 20-23 July. Nick Filippone

Clearly, they all do not look the same. To accomplish the appearance in this photo, I would mask on each side of each rib, and paint in between, by hand, with Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000. When dry, peel away the masking tape. Then you can gently, lightly sand to remove any raised edge caused by the meniscus effect of the paint next to the masking tape. You can also lightly sand to make it less prominent if desired. If you make a mistake, you can easily remove the entire new “rib” and redo it. I use this technique to restore raised panel lines. It is actually easy and very effective. Good luck. Nick

Viktor, I consulted one of my references on the Tiger Moth. This is Ray Rimell’s Aeroguide Classics Number 6 on the Tiger Moth. There are excellent closeups of the wing and horizontal stabilizer upper surfaces. On the tail especially, the rib effect is quite subtle and, respectfully, as molded by Airfix, it is much closer to reality than what your rib tape efforts are achieving. In 1/72 and smaller scales, these techniques are inevitably over scale. I have used these tape techniques in scratch-building in these small scales, because there aren’t a lot of alternatives. It’s better than nothing, but not by much. If you want to emphasize these ribs, you might try simply pre- shading them with a dark colour, but I do not think it necessary. Good luck. Regards, Nick Filippone

Tony, Examine that Lindbergh Do335 carefully. I once (40+ years ago) tried to do Do 635. This was a proposed twin fuselage Do 335. It was not possible because, due to a molding error, the wing roots are at different levels when viewed from the front. Could you do it with the Dragon kit? It is much better and much more accurate. Nick Filippone

For some members, it is about the medals. For some of us, it is about medals and models. One’s attitude toward one’s hobby ( or job, or marriage or religion) is very personal. It seems to me that the arguments against contests are employed by people who cannot win, either due to lack of skill or lack of assiduity, or people who have won all the trophies they need and want some kind of release from the onus of preparing for competition (because it does unquestionably exert pressure to be “ perfect “), or people who think that any competition is intrinsically evil ( which also, unquestionably, it often is), and should always be avoided. If you fall into any of these groups, then don’t enter contests. One of the great pluses of contests is that it focuses one to build and finish models. How often do we hear folks on this Forum complain that they struggle to finish something? When there is a contest coming up, it compels you to complete something so you have something to enter. Entering contests and judging contests have made me a better modeler. But I am a perfectionist always trying to improve my skills and results. That is not a bad approach to one’s endeavours in life, whatever they might be. In the end, the National Organization has an obligation to meet the demands and requirements of as many members as possible. For the E-Board this is an easy one- if you like contests enter our contests. If you don’t like contests don’t enter but you are still welcome to be members of IPMS and enjoy the other benefits. There is something for everyone here! Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge

Actually, I do bother to look at what is being entered in these categories as I enter them and judge them. What kits are being entered is not the point. One of the most important reasons for creating OOB was to provide categories where perhaps more casual modelers feel they can compete successfully without having to do the major surgery or create out of raw materials the extra details often seen in the “standard” categories. While there may be an element of perception versus reality in this distinction in the minds of modelers, it is an important perception. IPMS contests have long been accused (perceived?) of catering to advanced modelers. OOB modelers wanted and apparently still want these more comfortable categories that are better related to how they see themselves and how they view their skills. As an organization struggling to expand membership, making it even more snobbish is not in our interest, notwithstanding the fact that it is true that in reality the displayed levels of skill between OOB and regular categories (at least at the National Contest) are frequently indistinguishable. In any event, what anyone of us thinks is irrelevant. In this matter, it appears that, given the numbers of entries, the people have voted with their models! Nick

As an avid model builder, enthusiastic trophy hound and practicing National Contest judge, I have never had nor have I any problem with OOB. Neither do most people who enter these categories- at least in my personal experience. I agree with Jim, based on it’s popularity and participation, these categories should be kept. While changes in contest categories are at the discretion of the NCC, heretofore, they have, appropriately, based such decisions on the perceived preferences of the National Contest contestants - usually expressed in the numbers of entries in a category from year to year. The predictable annual excoriation of OOB, while providing some food for thought, must be assessed with care because numerically, in the absence of, dare I say it, polling information, it represents only a tiny, apparently, fraction of the National contest- entering membership. The continued enthusiastic participation in these categories puts the lie to the notion that OOB is unwanted, antiquated and should be eliminated. Just sayin.’ Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge

I was very sorry to hear of the passing of Mr. W.R. Matthews. Older old-timers will remember him from before Air Enthusiast when he wrote the modeling column for Flying Review International. As a budding serious teen age modeler in America, he was for me a near mythical guru of our hobby. Everything he did in the Mother Country seemed so much different and better than what we were doing here in the colonies. His information about aircraft I never heard of and camouflage schemes never seen before was fun and exciting and educational. And as if that wasn’t enough, he had a Briton’s enviable superior command of the Queen’s English. It was a powerful vocabulary and grammar builder for this student. I wish to extend my condolences to his family and encourage them take some solace in the fact that their loved one was so gifted and generous that he could reach out to a person thousands of miles away and nurture a hobby that has brought me a lifetime of enjoyment. I will always remember his monthly tutorials with fondness and respect. May he Rest In Peace. Nick Filippone

Isn’t that just a dark coloured rubber seal? Could you simulate it after painting with decal or tape? Nick

I guess you can’t tell the UFO without a score card. Nick

I cannot figure out a link. However, the ETSY dealer is: DPETERSCOLLECTIBLES. Regards, Nick

ETSY has one for $39. Googling this kit turns up a few more, but the price mostly goes up from there. Someone on Google has a group of Sci-Fi kits including this UFO kit for $35., but not as pristine, as far as I can tell. Nick Filippone

With the predictability of Haley’s Comet- only, mercilessly, annually, instead of a more sufferable once every 76 years- we endure, yet again, the OOB rules debate. The why’s and wherefore’s have always been and always will be grist for mill that endlessly grinds on our Forum, as we strive mightily to plumb the arcane and inscrutable raison d’etre of OOB. But, as Pete and Rusty have said, the rules are plain and they create a level playing field. Just apply them as you build your entry and you’ll be fine. If you think they should be changed, the National Contest Committee is always willing to listen to suggestions. Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge

Actually, OOB is no more difficult to judge than any other category. Because our competitions are based on craftsmanship, accuracy is not the primary consideration. Any kit, well assembled by paying heed to the judging standards explained in IPMS Competition guidelines (alignment, seams, painting, decal application, etc.) will be competitive. And, as has been pointed out many times on this Forum, the more detailed and advanced the kit, the more opportunities there are to make mistakes. Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge

Based on the photos you provided, it does not appear that this part supports or bears much weight. Can’t you just glue it back together? If it is big enough in diameter, you could drill out each end and insert a small reinforcing rod of brass rod to reinforce it, but if it doesn’t bear weight, you probably don’t need to. Good luck. Nick Filippone

That’s exactly how I built my vacuform machine, aluminum frames, office clamps and all. Only mine is nowhere near as big- about 4” by 12.” Hence I can only do one piece at a time- and that in 1/72 scale. I am very impressed with the quality of your moldings. Nick

This looks great, Gil! And a natural metal finish no less. What was the actual Vacuform device you used? Thanks. Nick

I did google it. Every Cougar between ‘71 and ‘76 look the same to me! Regards, Nick Filippone

Looks like you have created the proverbial silk purse from a sow’s ear! The only metal car kits I recall from my youth were by Hubley. Is there any relationship between those and these Ertl kits? Beautiful work as always, Ron. Regards, Nick