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Nick Filippone

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Everything posted by Nick Filippone

  1. Why wouldn't you simply carve the male molds from balsa? It is not too expensive, it is easily available and it is easy to carve. I have used this method many times to create a male mold for vacu-forming. Regards, Nick Filippone
  2. Hobby Link Japan and Hobby Search do not bill until they are ready to ship! Their prices and service are excellent. Nick Filippone
  3. Ron, Excellent result. May I make a suggestion to refine your basic technique? I use a pencil to accent virtually all my panel lines, whether the engraved line is still there in which the pencil can be run (easiest) or if I have to use masking tape as a guide if the engraved line has been lost during seam clean-up ( still pretty easy and easier than scribing) or was never there as in your case. This technique is especially useful when you have filled gaps and seams with products other than super glue. While super glue can with difficulty be scribed, nothing else can - at least in my experience. Now, my suggestion. Instead of a colour pencil, get a Pentel .3 mm Forte Pro II technical pencil product # A73. Keep a chiseled edge on it by rubbing it on a piece of sandpaper or even an ordinary index card taped to your work bench. I have found that lead hardness HB works best. Mistakes are easily corrected with a white eraser, by washing unwanted lines with a fine brush and water or saliva, or even taking the very tip of a fresh 11 blade and carefully scraping away the unwanted line with a light tangential stroke along the surface of the paint. It works, its easy and effective and, given the ease of correcting mistakes, very forgiving. I prefer to use the technique on surfaces painted with flat paint, but my friend swears he can make it work on gloss-I find this much harder. Another advantage of the technique is that once your decals are in place and coated, you can lightly run the pencil over the decal to create the effect of panel lines within the markings. Good luck. Regards, Nick Filippone
  4. Perhaps it takes the practiced hands of a surgeon to be able to modulate the amount of paint coming out of an airbrush by subtle variation of pressure on the trigger, but I have been doing it using either a Binks Wren or a Paasche H-1 single action airbrush for approximately 45 years. Furthermore, if you are contemplating a complex, free hand camo pattern-as I recently applied to a Roden Junkers D or in the application of a mottled scheme on a Luftwaffe aircraft- I use the fine tip. It definitely allows better control of the size of the pattern, fineness of the edge and the amount of the paint. (You will have to thin the paint accordingly.) The medium tip I use for most applications of paint to large areas where an even coat is desired. The large tip I usually reserve for applying flat and especially gloss coats where I want to quickly and evenly "wet" an entire model. It all takes practice and experience, but it ain't brain surgery! Nick Filippone, M.D., Fellow of the American College of Surgeons
  5. The allen screw is only to hold the entire tip assembly in place. It has nothing to do with spray size. This can be modulated by amount of finger pressure on the " trigger button," varying the nozzle opening around the needle by screwing it in or out, swapping in and out the three different tip sizes and, of course, adjusting the pressure at the air source ( compressor or tank). I have only used a single action Paasche H-1 for years and I agree that, kept clean, it is durable, vesatile and forgiving. Regards, Nick Filippone
  6. Commander Models has recently released a 1/35 scale Ford 3-Ton Light Tank-their kit #1-016. It was designed during WWI and ordered, apparently, in large numbers. The order was cancelled with the Armistice. It is beautifully molded. Nick
  7. Revell Germany has also released HO scale train kits for display only. They are usually German railway prototypes. Nick
  8. The Wallace was one of a series of "record breaking " aircraft kitted by Frog. This particular aircraft was modified from a standard Westland Wallace as the P.V.6 for the overflight of Everest. Other kits in the series included the Vimy distance record setter ( hence no gun positions), the Bristol 138 altitude record setter, and the Fairey Delta 2. While admittedly crude by modern standards, I always felt Frog deserved a lot of credit for manufacturing kits of unusual aircraft-and they usually fit together pretty well. Nick
  9. The 1/48 Monogram kits of that era-including B-24, B-25, B-26, B-29, etc. all suffered from the same syndrome: great looking in the box, but try putting it togther! If you really want to suffer, try the 1/48 C-47. I do not know where Monogram went awry in kit design in the '70's, because in the '60's their kits fit great. Most of my modeling friends wouldn't bother with them now-too much like work! Nick
  10. Brian, I checked with the hotel. By that time the only rooms available were the large suites with jacuzzi, kitchen,etc. These are much more expensive. The hotel had already sold out the ordinary cheapest and most numerous rooms. Two weeks before an IPMS convention, whether Regional or National, is way too late to be assured a cheap room! If you are looking forward to attending these events in the future, always make your reservations as early as possible. The experienced IPMS convention go-ers have all had to learrn this lesson the hard way as well. Regards, Nick
  11. Brian, When did you try to make that reservation and did you use the event code? Nick
  12. I would like to thank Brian for his kind remarks and I hope he really did have an enjoyable experience and is not simply being polite! To be honest with him and the Society, we were a little dissapointed in the turnout of registrants and, hence, the number of entries. We had 81 registrants- down from c. 105 in 2008, when we put the show on at the same venue. In 2004, when we first put on the show on there, we had c. 120 registrants. This year, there were only 288 entries on the contest tables- a low number ( although the quality was high) for a Regional show. By show time' the Vendor Room looked full, but if we removed the Show raffle tables and the local and regional IPMS members who rented tables to sell off some of their "stash," the number of commerial vendors was about 25% less than 2004. We were VERY grateful for the support of these commercial vendors who had great stuff at great prices and were VERY generous in their donations to our raffle. But-and this is a big but- these trends are disturbing and do not bode well for the future of Noreastcon without a radical rethinking of the format of the show and the expectations of the participants. Nick Filippone, Noreastcon 40 Convention Chairman. P.S. Congratulations to Brian on his achievements in the Contest- I recall reading his name several times at the Awards Banquet!
  13. Be sure to check the air outflow opening in the body of the airbrush behind the tip. The least little bit of crud will block and break up the airflow, preventing a good draw of paint into the nozzle. Nick Filippone
  14. I do not think a "temporary" mount to base is advisable. It would never be secure enough! Either take the model off the base and pack it as you would any model not on a base OR secure it firmly to the base and pack the base in such a way that there is opportunity for some limited movement in all axes so that the base will absorb the "g" forces and not the landing gear. I accomplish this by attaching the base to layers ot towel ( or clear plastic, if flying) placed at the bottom of the container using loops of masking tape. In this way the base is secure in the box, but jostling motions will be absorbed by permitting the towels some movement in the box, and the base ( with model) some movement over the towels. No system is perfect, but I have had the best luck with this. Nick Filippone
  15. One other reminder. If you are planning to dine at the Awards Banquet, we must have your reservation by 28 April. The caterer is requesting a 2 week notice on the number so they can prepare accordingly. Thanks. Nick Filippone POC- I think-whatever that is!
  16. "google" aloder.freeyellow.com. That brings you to IPMS North East NY website. Click on "Noreastcon 40." Click on convention registration choice-it's at the top of the list! The fee schedule is on that form. I just tried it. It all works. Regards, Nick Filippone. P.S. What's a "POC?"
  18. Did you gloss coat the surface before the decals were applied? Nick Filippone
  19. You did not indicate what brand of decals nor how you prepared the surface before applying the decals. These considerations are also important. Regards, Nick Filippone
  20. A couple of years ago, I built a Roden 1/72 scale Sopwith Camel. While the decals did not disintegrate, they were stiff and would not settle down over any of the surface detail, despite repeated applications of every setting solution on the market. It ruined an otherwise pretty good model! On the other hand, I have read reviews of Roden kits which raved about the decals. I suspect that they shop different decal printers with regard only to the lowest cost. I personally would not build a Roden kit again without an alternative decal sheet in hand. Nick Filippone
  21. My friend is building the Revell "Spirit of St. Louis." He has noted in photos of the actual aircraft two tubes protruding from under the fuselage approximately where the cockpit is (or a little behind it). These are apparently not on the standard Ryan Brougham. Does anyone know the function of these two tubes? Thanks. Nick Filippone
  22. Ed, I confess I jumped immediately to the photo of the F-86 and was jealous that you had lived so close to an Air Force base growing up. Remarkable work. The B-52/X-15 shots are amazing! Nice work in the technological stone age. Nick Filippone
  23. Pedro and Chris, Thanks for the replies. I will visit the web sites mentioned. (I think I may already be registered on papermodels.com) I will get in touch with you periodically to see what we could do to make Noreastcon 40 attractive to card modelers as well. Regards, Nick
  24. I think as a result of Pedro's posting, we should seize an opportunity we missed three years ago in Anaheim. There was, at that National, a remarkable display of the extraordinary things that can be accomplished with paper or card models. We should have actively courted these craftsmen by adding card model categories to every National Contest and invite and encourage the enthusiasts of this genre to enter AND JUDGE these categories. Simultaneously we should have encouraged Regional and Local shows to likewise provde such categories. We might, by offering these modelers venues to display and compete with their work, thereby encourage them to consider becoming members of IPMS. Paper modeling is hugely popular. These men and women represent a large potential pool of members. They might enjoy the exchange of ideas about modeling and the sharing of techniques with our members. BUT, we would have to think more creatively and demonstrate and promote a policy- at the National level as well as the Regional and Local Chapter - that is more inclusive of other modelers and their clubs. I cannot help but think this kind of diversity of modelers would grow the Society- if we truely made them welcome. Pedro, Hi. I am the Convention Chairman for the Region 1 IPMS Regional Convention ( Noreastcon 40) to be held in May 2011 in Schoharie, New York-near Albany. Without betraying any confidentialities, would you know how I might contact paper modelers in the northeast United States to see if they would be interested in attending, displaying and competing in our show? Is there a local, regional or national paper modelers' organization that I might contact, that could then, in turn, promote our show to its members. If there is interest, we could easily create paper model categories for our contest. You can "private message" me or we could keep up the conversation here. It might get just the "buzz" we need going to start this process. "IPMS- It's not just for plastic anymore." Regards, Nick Filippone
  25. My experiences have taught me a few different lessons: (1) Do not put models in overhead storage! While you may pay more to get it on early, the jamoke trying to fit his too large piece of luggage in the last too small space in the overhead- right next to your model- will pound his bag like Rocky working a side of beef! All that shock will be transmitted to your model. (2) Use clear plastic boxes with clear plastic wrap padding, if padding is called for. Anything that makes it easier for the TSA to see the contents of your box-Xray notwithstanding- will make it less likely they will want you to open it and take out the contents. (3) Plan to store your models on the floor of the seat in front of you. You have complete control of this space! This will limit the size of the box and therefore the size of your entries. So think and build small for the "fly to" Nationals. Remember, the space under the seats varies in size from airliner to airliner ( 757's are great, 737's o.k., Canadair RJ's tiny). The space under the seat next to the window is usually smallest. Do not forget that if you choose to sit in the front row, there is no seat in front of you under which to store models. (4) You will likely have to tip the box to get it between the edge of your seat and the space in the seat ahead of you. You will therefore HAVE to fix the model to the bottom of your box. I glue all traveling models to bases. I use clear velcro to hold the bases securely, but removeably, to the bottom of the clear box or boxes. Good luck! Nick Filippone
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