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Nick Filippone

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by Nick Filippone

  1. Both the 1/72 and 1/48 scale sheets are available on E-bay, but you better move on it. One 1/48 sheet went for high bid of $102.50! There is another 1/72 sheet for a buy it now bid of $12. There is a 1/48 sheet for a buy it now bid of $33. I found these by googling Caracal YF-23 decals and had to go to the second page but they are there. I will bet they won't be there for long. Custom printing is not likely to be cheaper even if you could get them made in time. Good luck! Nick Filippone
  2. As you may know Caracal decals did sheets for the YF-23 in both 1/72 and 1/48 scale about a year ago. Caracal lists these as sold out but some retailer may have them in stock. Nick Filippone
  3. May I ask what scale you are building this model in and what particular marking are you trying to obtain? Nick Filippone
  4. Could you print it on white decal paper and cut carefully around it? I understand an Alps printer can print white if you can find someone with one. (I don't think they are made anymore.) Last resort is a custom decal printing service but I think they are pricey! Nick Filippone
  5. I am really looking forward to this. Good luck. Nick Filippone
  6. Yes, you really do have to "wet" the surface by reducing the pressure at which you're spraying and moving the nozzle closer to the subject, advancing slowly around the surface to be coated. Of course, all this runs the risk of applying too much in a spot, especially a concave area or "cove" such as a wing root and getting a pool that can run. The consensus seems to be that, as always, it takes practice. It always scares me to do it but if you can work up the nerve, it does improve decaling results and gloss finishes. Nick Filippone
  7. The chapter referred to above as Albany/ Schenectady (New York) is IPMS Northeast New York. It began meeting in 1966. It was formally chartered by Ralph Forehand in 1970. Nick Filippone, President, IPMS Northeast New York
  8. I see Gil's point about "entry level" modeling. It does betray the fact, however, that he and I and we are all afflicted by Advanced Modeler Syndrome! I think we forget that many modelers are very happy with basic assembly and painting. If you don't believe me, come to one of our local Hobbytown USA contests. I have judged at these. Good grief! Most of it is awful. Yet, these builders are quite proud of their work and happy with the result. The fact is that these folks (none of them IPMS members, I might add) are buying and building most of the output of the kit manufacturers. We modeler snobs are not sufficient in numbers to justify Airfix bringing out a new mold Supermarine Swift or Bedford Light Truck. There must be enough average, modeling for fun only people to sustain the industry. We at IPMS are benefiting from the support their numbers bring to the market place. So they- the average, not so serious modelers- must have, not only the interest in the vast variety of subject matter being produced in kits, but also the disposable income to purchase them. Regards, and Happy New Year to all. Nick Filippone
  9. Fifty years ago gas was .30 a gallon. It is at least 10 times that now. A new Volkswagon was $3000. in 1971. It is at least 10 times that now. The tuition and room and board at my Alma Mater was $3000. annually in 1971. It is 15 times that now. An Airfix single engine 1/72 scale fighter was .69 to a $1.00 in 50 years ago. It is about 10 times that now for a far superior new mold kit. What is the problem with pricing? I just do not understand what all you Cassandras are so worried about. Good cheap kits have always been available and always will be because it is good business. Sure, $10. today buys what a $1.00 could 50 years ago. But then you could buy a pack of gum for a nickel 50 years ago. Nick Filippone
  10. I think that the U.S.A. is a lot bigger than "Old Blighty!" It is bigger than the U.K. And Europe combined. The E-board would, ideally, like to rotate the venue around the country to give as many members as possible to at least periodically attend the National Convention without having to travel too far. Of course, accomplishing this goal is constrained by the ability and willingness of chapters to host the National. Nick Filippone
  11. Respectfully- it is spelled Edsel and it was a beautiful car, especially the 1958 convertible! Regards, Nick Filippone
  12. This is the old Mania kit. It is a gem, in my opinion. Nice molding and engraved surface detail. Good interior detail, also. I recommend it. Nick Filippone
  13. Here we go again! It seems that after every National, some super sleuth finds some picayune error designed to embarrass the builder and once again, attempt to reveal to all the world the manifest incompetence of the judges. It almost always involves some accuracy issue and thereby only ends up embarrassing this year's Sherlock Holmes as it does every year. The National, as every contest under IPMS rules, is a craftsmanship competition. How many times does this have to be said? Propeller shape is an accuracy issue. The rules under which we compete and judge are explicit on this point. Only an absurd deviation from accuracy, such as contra-rotating props on this aircraft, would eliminate this piece from consideration. I would suggest that the modeler who finds that the "inept" judging makes attending the Nationals "undesireable" should indeed stay home. How could he or she hope to compete successfully or, God forbid, judge competently when the rules, plainly stated, are still so incomprehensible to him or her? Nick Filippone, IPMS # 969, Senior National Judge
  14. Polly Scale was called Polly S. It was made in Amsterdam, New York-about 15 minutes from where I live now. I used it and mostly liked it but it was hard to mask as it adhered poorly to the underlying surface. When they changed the name, they changed the formula. It adhered better, but I did not like using it as much and switched to MM enamel. I use it almost exclusively. If you want a more user-friendly site to purchase it, go to Hobbylinc. (Not Hobby Link Japan!) Nick Filippone
  15. Who needs a social life when there are all these great kits to build! Nick Filippone
  16. Paul, I will try to post this on 5 July. If I cannot get to the post office that day, I will let you know. Regards, Nick
  17. Paul, PM your mailing address and I will mail it to you with my compliments. Regards, Nick Filippone
  18. The Slater, I am told, will be back in Albany, New York well before the Region 1 Regional, Noreastcon 2015, which will be held in Albany on 2 May, 2015. If there is enough interest, we were thinking of a getting a group of the Convention registrants together for a tour of the Slater on Sunday, 3 May. The Slater is only about 15 or 20 minutes from the Convention site. IPMS Northeastern New York, the Convention hosts, will have it's new website up soon. Be on the lookout for show details and save the date! Regards, Nick Filippone, IPMS NENY President and Noreastcon 2015 Convention Chairman (also, Vendor Coordinator.)
  19. Dennis, I can provide these sheets. They are only missing two small images. They are duplicates, so our German colleague is quite welcome to them. I will try e-mailing him. Thanks. Nick
  20. Try Hobby Linc- note spelling. Broad range of all colours and brands. Solvent and acrylic. Better prices, fast service. I gave up on brick and mortar stores for paint long ago for the reasons you point out. I am about 30 miles from the nearest hobby store. Between gas, tolls and sales tax, Hobby Linc is a better deal. Not to mention the time saved. I usually order MM enamel and it arrives in about a week. Nick Filippone
  21. Ron, I have to admit that I thought you were nuts to build that old Airfix kit but it does look great! I also make a lot of use of the pencil for panel lines. I recommend a Pentel .3 mm technical pencil with an HB lead. I sand the tip to a chisel edge. It can be erased if necessary, then reapplied. Nick Filippone
  22. Mark is correct. (He must have been composing and posting his reply just as I was. I would likely NOT try the techniques I suggested in my first post on a natural metal model! Masking various panels would then be best. The Victor I built using the Mr. Surface and tape technique was painted a lovely overall dark P.R.U. Blue. Truthfully, I wouldn't have even attempted the project if the scheme was natural metal! Nick Filippone
  23. If this is going to be a natural metal scheme, then simply masking off individual panels in perhaps three different shades of silver will provide a sufficient representation of panel lines as the varying tones are juxtaposed. If it is in OD over Grey, then drawing the panel lines in as Ron suggested would be the easiest. It is my preferred approach in kits with recessed panel lines because the redrawn lines look the same as the pencil accented intact recessed panel lines. This approach will not work, obviously, in combination with intact raised lines because the appearance would not be consistent. It sounds like you sanded them all off, which is fine. Whatever technique you use, the end result must be uniform throughout. Nick Filippone P.S. If you are going to mask off shades of natural metal, I favour Floquil Old Silver, Bright Silver and Platinum Mist. They stand up to masking with low tack scotch tape ( my preference, because even if there is a leak, it is hardly noticeable) and are very forgiving in that they touch up easily. Good luck!
  24. This is hardly a rookie mistake. It is the great drawback to any raised panel line kit. In cleaning up the joints and seams, some of that detail is lost. Any modeler of any skill and experience must confront this problem if he or she is planning to build a kit with raised detail. In addition to the solutions mentioned already, there are two other options. Archer Fine Decals markets a sheet of resin raised panel line applied like decals. They work quite well but are a little pricey. Another approach is to restore the raised panel line by applying two pieces of masking tape very close to each other, then introducing some thick paint ( or, what I prefer, Mr. Surfacer) between the edges of the tape. When dry, remove the tape and lightly sand the ridge to the desired thickness. It is cheap and easily correctable if a mistake is made (simply sand off completely). It is tedious and labour intensive, however. The results are surprisingly good. I used this technique to restore some lost raised detail on an old Lindberg Handley Page Victor and was very satisfied with the results. Another advantage is that you can easily adjust the height and width of the line to match the molded panel lines. Good luck! Nick Filippone
  25. Has anyone actually tried to assemble this kit? Either I am slipping- certainly possible- or there are some MAJOR problems with the engineering of the main landing gear attachment. To wit- they just don't fit! Nick Filippone
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