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Posts posted by Wolfman63

  1. Arriving at week four of the P-61B I built and detailed the Pratt & Whitney 2,250 hp R-2800-65W Double Wasp 18-cylinder air-cooled radial piston engines. I chose to use the open cowl flaps so that the exhaust can be seen. The photo etch set adds the inner cowl flaps and the ignition wires to the engine. I painted the cylinder using Vallejo’s Metal Air Gunmetal gray. The pushrod covers and engine block were painted using the Metal Air duraluminum, and the Metal Air Exhaust for the exhaust pipes. The intakes were painted gloss black and ignition was dark canvas brown. The cowl flaps were painted insignia red for the paint scheme of the “Lady in the dark”.

    The wings have leading edge intakes. The kit has solid plastic inserts but the photo etch set has open detailed pieces. The intake areas were cut open and the photo etch pieces were installed. I used a little putty to bland in the intakes to the wing. I then added some photo etch details to the upper wing and placed the dive brakes in the closed position. The photo etch set also has the parts to open them if you want. I am now working on the booms that hold the engines and the main landing gear. The photo etch for the landing gear bays is extensive and the photo etch sheet just for the booms is a large 8” X 6” sheet filled with many detailed parts.

    There are more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-p-61b-black-widow-lady-in-the-dark/



















  2. For the third week of the Black Widow build I spent a lot of time getting the fuselage together. First I completed detailing the avionics in the radar area by adding all the cables and wiring. I used 30 AWG wires for the cabling and 30 AWG bare wire for the wiring portion.

    Next came the part of getting the fuselage halves together. Even without the photo etch details this kit is very challenging to get the halves together. The part that makes it difficult is the 20mm guns in the belly. The issue is the gun barrels stick out about 0.5 inches out the belly gun ports. The fuselage half has alignment pins that are about 0.2 inches long so the halves align correctly. The basic premise is to feed the gun barrels thru the ports and then slide the fuselage half back to align it with the other half. It may sound easy, however the guide pins being so long causes the gun barrels to bend outward. The bending of the gun barrels is very extreme especially with the length that needs to be fed thru the ports. I would like to note on the old Monogram kit the panels with the gun ports are separate panels. This kit has them as part of the fuselage halves. So moving forward I found it easier to cut off the alignment pins on the bottom. This allowed me to slide the gun barrels thru the ports then align the halves together. It took a little bit of work to get the bottom of the fuselage halves to line up but this worked out a lot better assembly wise.

    With the fuselage finally together I needed a little putty along the seam. I then detailed the nose gear bay with photo etch. There are still some wires and cables that need to be added but I will add these later when I get ready to attach the nose gear. The forward crew boarding ladder is thru the nose gear bay. The kit part was then detailed with photo etch framing. With the main fuselage together I am now starting on the engines and they wing assemblies.

    There are more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-p-61b-black-widow-lady-in-the-dark/





















  3. Week two of the P-61B I began detailing the interior of the fuselage. With the cockpit area detailed I started to detail the radar operator’s station. The avionics rack for the kit is a one piece molded section. The Eduard photo etch set replaces the kit part. The photo etch pieces include the desk frame and all the equipment. One of the things you need to do is remove the viewing hoods for the front and rear radar screens off the kit part. After finishing the avionics I then began detailing the starboard fuselage interior walls. The kit ribbing was removed in certain sections to add the photo etch walls.

    Then the various control boxes and more avionics parts were added. The rear entry ladder was also detailed. The ladder will be in the open position when the model is finished. I used some 30 AWG wire to add the cables to the equipment and then installed the cockpit section and radar section floors. I am now detailing the port side of the fuselage and will be adding all the various cable to the radar avionics equipment. I am hoping to have the fuselage together this upcoming week. I started to make a dry fit of the fuselage halves together to make sure everything fits. There is some interesting issues that need to addressed. I will cover what they are and how I corrected them next week.

    There are more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-p-61b-black-widow-lady-in-the-dark/





















  4. Welcome, this next build is one of my favorite World War II aircraft. I will be building the 1/48 Great Wall Hobby P-61B. The P-61 nicknamed “Black Widow” was the first aircraft specifically designed to be a night fighter. It was built by Northrop at their Hawthorn California facility. The aircraft was used in most of the theaters during the war. The scheme for this build is for the “Lady in the Dark” which is “unofficially” credited with the last Allied air victory before Japan surrendered (VJ day) in 1945. For this build I will be using the Eduard “BigEd” detail set which has eight photo etch sheets to detail this kit inside and out.

    Starting off with the cockpit I added some of the photo etch to give details to the cockpit floor and rear bulkhead. The seats were assembled and then detailed with the photo etch seal belts. The rear seat in the cockpit has one of the control sticks for the remote controlled gun turret was detailed with new adjustment wheels and the levers to fire the four Browning .50 cal guns. The rear bulkhead was detailed with the holder and mounting strap for the fire extinguisher. I then sanded down the kit details on the instrument panel and added the photo etch. I added some photo etch details to the control stick as well.

    I then started on the rear fuselage deck. This holds the four 20mm Hispano M2 cannons in the belly of the fuselage and the radar operator area. The photo etch set replaces the floor surface and the top step for the hatch. The Radar operator bulkhead that holds all the radar equipment for the kit is not used at all. The photo etch set replaces everything from bench to shelves and all the equipment. I am working on these now and then I can begin to detail the interior of the fuselage.

    Check out more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-p-61b-black-widow-lady-in-the-dark/


















  5. I have opened up a store on my website to make it easier to purchase the U.S. Navy Aircraft Carrier Hangar Bay and Air Wing Decal Sets. The hangar bay decal sets cover U.S. Navy CV, CVN, LPD, LHD, and LHA class ships. These decal sets provide all the signs, logos, murals and stripes used on the ships. I have both 1:350 and 1:700/1:720 scales

    The air wing decal sets cover specific ships and a specific cruise in 1:350 scale. These sets cover all the aircraft that were aboard during that cruise including the tail designs, aircraft numbering, and squadrons. 

    You can purchase these in my store at Products – David's Scale Models (davidsscalemodels.com)

    I ship worldwide via USPS.

    Here are some sample photos. This is for the 1/350 USS Enterprise CVN-65 for the hangar bay set and the Air wing sample is for the 1984-1985 CVW-11 which was aboard during the filming of the movie "Top Gun"





  6. I have completed the C-18S “Magic by Moonlight”!! The aircraft was mounted to the base. I ran the wiring thru the support tube and attached the wires to a connector at the rear of the base. This allows me to use the AC adapter that has a switch on it or I can hook up a 9V battery to illuminate the aircraft. The nameplate was then affixed to the base. I used two styrene rods coated with acrylic gel and used cotton balls stretched and wrapped around the rods. These were then shaped to create the smoke trails used in the stunts. This completes the display.

    The kit itself is a nice kit with only some minor sections requiring putty. The kit decals worked very well and conformed to the surface perfectly. The instructions seemed to be laid out well. However due to the logistical assembly with the lights I had to attach the wings and tail section to half of the fuselage and attach the other half afterwards. I ended up using the following to create the lighted effect:

    1 pico LED warm white for the instrument panel

    12 pico LED’s in cool white for the wings, cowls, tail lights and cabin. Tail lights also used two 0.5mm fiber optic line.

    1 pico red and 1 pico green for the wingtip lights. These were attached to two 0.5mm fiber optic lines.

    2 pico flashing red for the fuselage

    2 3.0mm LED’s in cool white for the nose lights

    So there are a total of 19 LED’s and 8” of 0.5mm fiber optic lines. All the wiring was routed to the tail section and soldered in parallel then two wires run thru the mounting rod to the connector at the rear of the display base.

    I really enjoyed building this and I really like how it turned out. Thank you for following along and hope you enjoyed this build. Happy Modeling!!

    Check out all the photos and details from start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-c-18s-magic-by-moonlight/














  7. Week four of the “Magic by Moonlight” was the painting and decaling of the aircrafts scheme. I started off by using kapton tape to mask the windows and liquid mask for all the lights. The aircraft was then sprayed with Testors Ferrari Red.  In order to get the scalloped paint scheme I scanned in the kit instructions of the scheme then scaled them to match the model size. I then placed the scanned photos under the glass work surface and made the masks using kapton tape. With all the masks applied the aircraft was the sprayed with Testors gloss black.

    While the paint was drying I reviewed the reference photos of the actual aircraft. There are numerous company logos for the sponsors the aircraft near the tail and on the fuselage above the main wings. The kit decal set does not include these. I searched Google and found all the company logos. I then scaled and made my own decals. All the decals were then applied and the entire aircraft was sprayed with a clear gloss. I then detailed and painted the propellers and installed them. I used some 30AWG bare wire to make the small whip antennas for the top of the fuselage.  I also ordered a brushed nickel nameplate which will be mounted on the base of the display stand. All that is left to do is to mount the aircraft, wire up the base, and then make the smoke trails to complete the project.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-c-18s-magic-by-moonlight/





















  8. Moving forward with week three of “Magic by Moonlight” I assembled and detailed the engines using the photo etch add-ons. It was a little strange that the kit engines were not molded with the cylinder fins but Eduard was kind enough to provide these in the photo etch set. I then mounted the engines into the wings. I had to files two small grooves to clear the wiring for the cowl lights.

    Next came installing the seats into the cockpit and cabin. The photo etch set does not include the seat belts so I made my own using some 3M cloth tape. Since I will be displaying the aircraft in flight I took a 1/48 WWII pilot to place in the seat. In order to look like the actual pilot Matt Younkin I used a Google image of Matt and a 1/48 ground crewman to modify the pilot to look like him with his red shirt and red ball cap. Matt was then placed in the pilot seat.

    I then began assembling the fuselage. With 18 LED’s inside I routed all the wiring to the tail section and soldered all the connections. Then the styrene rod was installed and the wiring was fed down the center of the tube. After getting the wiring tucked into the tail section I was able to get the fuselage together. Everything lined up well considering I had to install the wings and tail on half the fuselage so I could route the wiring then carefully put the fuselage halves together. With the aircraft assembled I performed a light check and all the lights were working. I am now starting to mask the fuselage for the paint scheme. I should have all the painting and decals done in the coming week.

    Check out the short video of the light check in the build log.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-c-18s-magic-by-moonlight/



















    • Like 1
  9. Welcome to week two of the C-18S. I am calling this the “Let there be light!!” week. I spent this week adding the lighting to the wings, tail and some of the fuselage. The mounting of the fiber optics and the LED’s takes a little time as these are glued down using acrylic gel. The acrylic gel takes a while to completely cure and everything needs to be glued down in sections. Starting off with the wings I worked on the wing tip lights and on the navigation lights on the tail. I drilled 0.5mm holes and added 0.5mm fiber optic lines. To simulate the light housings I used a flame to slightly melt the one end of the fiber optic lines. Once mounted they were glued using acrylic gel to the top of the PICO sized LED’s. Then the LED’s were then glued in place. For the under wing landing lights I cut disks from a clear tree then sanded and polished the one end and glued an LED to the backside. Two more LED’s were mounted on the leading edge lights. I drilled a 0.75mm hole on the center of the lower wings and added a lens. This will later have a flashing red LED mounted behind it.

    With the bottom side of the wings wired I then worked on the topside. The aircraft has lights mounted inside the cowls to illuminate the engines during flight. I utilized two PICO LED’s and mounted them on the top side of the cowls. While the acrylic gel was curing I started working on the fuselage. The instructions have you cut off the nose and replace it with another one that has two spots for lights. I drilled these out using a 3.0mm drill. I then test fitted two 3mm LED’s. I marked the front side with a marker then sanded the tops of the LED’s so they sit flush to the nose. Once they were modified I polished them to look like the light lenses. I am now working on the engines so I can finish the wing assembly and get the wiring routed to the aft section of the fuselage. The wiring will ultimately be fed thru the center of the rod that will hold the aircraft “in flight”.


    Check out all the photos and details from the start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-c-18s-magic-by-moonlight/



















    • Like 1
  10. This next build is the 1/48 ICM C-18S “Magic by Moonlight” Air show Aircraft. The aircraft was also nicknamed the “Beech Twin 18”. The pilot, Matt Younkin performed aerial stunts at many air shows. One of the most visually stimulating displays was Matt performing his stunts at night with all the lights (plus extra lighting) turned on. With that in mind, I will be building this “in flight” and will be using many LED lights and some fiber optics to replicate the aircraft performing its visually stimulating night time routine. I estimate I will need about 20 LED’s and about 2 feet 0.5mm fiber optic lines.

    I began with the instrument panel. The kit has a generic layout of gauges. I searched online and located a photo of the C-18S instrument panel. I scaled the photo and made a decal out of it. The panel was then sanded smooth and the area behind the gauges and displays was cut out. The decal of the panel was applied to a thin piece of sheet styrene and glued to the front. I then made a light box behind the panel to enclose a “warm white” LED to back light the instrument panel. I then dug into my scrap photo etch drawer and found the flight control levers for the center console. Moving onto the fuselage I installed the interior bulkheads and scratch built a channel with clear domes to house the cabin lights.

    Another area that required modification is the wings. First, the kit only has one wing light and the actual aircraft has two. I measured the port wing light and duplicated it on the starboard wing. I then drilled out the under wing landing lights so I can later install clear lenses and LED’s. The last modification was to trim off the molded wing tip lights, drill a 0.5mm hole into the wing tip. I took a fiber optic line and heated the one end to form the wing tip bulb and fed the fiber optic thru the hold and into the wing. I will add the red and green LED’s. I am now laying out where the rest of the fuselage LED’s are going as well as the engine cowl lights.


    Check out all the photos and details from the start to finish in my build log at 1/48 C-18S Magic by Moonlight – David's Scale Models (davidsscalemodels.com)






















  11. The Do-17Z is now finished. I applied the kit decals and made the symbol on the tails for historical accuracy. Then the final top coat of clear was sprayed on to seal the decals and provide a nice finish. The canopy, nose, and underside windows were painted and the guns were installed. They were all then mounted on the fuselage. I cut off the tail navigation light which was molded with the model and made a clear lens. The propellers were panted and installed. I then added the antenna as the final step to finishing this build.

    This was a fun build. The kit is very good with the exception of the wing to fuselage fit. The clear parts fit great and were easy to mask and paint. The large canopy and nose are very good in clarity allowing the cockpit details to easily be seen. The decals went down very well and conformed to the surface with only a little decal solution. The details of the kit are well defined. Thank you for following along and happy modeling!

    Check out all the photos and details from the start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/


















  12.  Here we at the fourth week of the Do-17Z-2. After cutting out the exhaust areas on the cowl panels the cowls were assembled and installed. The main landing gear was installed as well. I then painted the landing gear and bomb bay doors and began painting the base coat. For the underside I used Tamiya XF23 (RLM-65), for the splinter camouflage on the topside I used Tamiya XF61 (RLM-71) and XF27 (RLM-70), and for the propeller hubs I am using Vallejo RLM-04.

    The aircraft has six machine guns that are provided in the kit. The forward gun sight is a molded circle. I trimmed these off and added some photo etch sights from my photo etch extras. I am working on the decals now. The kit decals are very nice. So far they are going on very well and conforming to the surface nicely. I should have this build completed by next week.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/















  13. Welcome to week three of the Do-17Z. This week I installed the bomb racks into the bomb bay. The main gear bays have been built up and the nacelles have been installed. The engine mounts were assembled and I started on the engines. The engine cylinders were painted using Vallejo Metal Air paint. I used manifold gray for the cylinders themselves and duraluminum for the block and pushrods and covers. The bell housing was painted german gray. I cut strips of photo etch and panted them khaki gray. These were then installed for the wiring on the engines. The intake tubing were painted duraluminum. There are two choices for the exhaust. One set has exhaust tips that sit just under the cowl and the optional set has the exhaust pipes exiting thru the top of the cowls. The scheme that I am doing has the latter style. The exhaust ends are just flat ends. I used a micro-drill bit and drilled the exhaust ends to open them.

    The engine was installed on the engine mounts then the assembly was installed onto the wings. The front of the cowling was then installed. The cowl side panels need to have the exhaust cut outs opened for the exhaust style I am using. These were trimmed open with a hobby knife and then a round file was used to smooth and shape the openings. I am now working on finishing the cowls and then I will be installing the main landing gear. I am getting closer to doing the initial base coat of paint.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/






















  14. This second week of the Do-17Z I assembled the fuselage and added the tail wheel. I opted to add the extra fuel tank into the forward bomb bay. I then built the main landing gear. The wings were then installed. This required some work. First, the forward edge needed to be sanded on the inside to that it was the same height as the fuselage. There is also a 1.0mm gap on the forward edge as well. The rest of the wing lined up well on the rear and along the wing roots. I filled the gap with some putty.

    While the putty was drying I assembled the bomb racks for the aft bomb bay and started to build the main landing gear bays. Once the putty cured I wet sanded the areas. I still need to clean and add the panel lines in the area. I then had to add some putty to the forward bulkhead of the gear bays in a few spots. I am working on the rest of the main gear bays and then onto the nacelles/engines.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/



















    • Like 1
  15. This next build is the 1/48 ICM Do-17Z-2 World War II German light bomber. This is a twin-engined light bomber produced by Dornier Flugzeugwerke for the German Luftwaffe during World War II. It was nicknamed the “Flying Pencil” (Fliegender Bleistift) and was known for its excellent handling especially at low altitude. Coupled with the twin engines and the speed it could attain it was more difficult to shoot down than the larger twin engine bombers. It was utilized early in the war until it was replaced with the Do-217 which had larger engines, longer range and a larger bomb bay.

    This model will be built using one of Eduard’s newer “LOOK” set which is a highly detailed resin instrument panel and photo etch seat belts. The scheme I will be doing is that of the Kampfgeschwader 76 (KG 76) stationed in France during August 1940.

    Starting with the cockpit the kit comes with some nice details. I used some of my spare photo etch to add some extra details like the wiring and replacing the plastic levers with photo etch versions. For the pilot’s seating area I made a decal of the compass face and applied it to the center piece. I then painted the Dornier logo on the center of the control stick. A few photo etch seat belts completed the assembly. The Eduard instrument panel was then mounted in place. The co-pilots seat was built and detailed with photo etch seat belts and mounted into position. I had to do some mold mark clean up in the center bay and installed the framing sections. I have just a couple of details to add and then the fuselage can be assembled.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-do-17z-2-german-light-bomber/















    • Like 1
  16.  The Super Hornet of VFA-37 is I finished! I finished applying the decals and then top coated the aircraft. I then wet sanded the windscreen and canopy with 1000 then 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the mold seam on both parts. They were then polished with the Meguire’s Plastx cleaning/polishing compound.

    I installed all the weapons, centerline tank, and Litening pod to the underside. The HUD and windscreen were installed. I positioned the canopy in the open position and this completed the aircraft.

    The kit itself went together well with the exception of the intake fit. As noted this kit represents the early super hornet so I added the ECS tubes for the later version. The Furball decals were pretty good. The only issue I had was the walkway stripes fell apart due to the thin film when I tried to slide them off. I ended up using the kit decals for these. Overall I am happy with the final results. I also took some photos next to “C” model (also a Revell kit) so that you can see the size/shape differences between the two. I also included a photo with a VA-37 A-7E. I served with VA-37 and transitioned out just before the changeover to the F/A-18’s. I just need to build an A-7A with the early VA-37 markings to complete my set of VA-37/VFA-37 aircraft. Thank you for following along – Happy Modeling!


    Check out all the photos and details from the start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-a-18e-super-hornet-from-vfa-37/



















    • Like 2
  17. The third week of the super hornet I finished the main landing gear. I then moved over to the missiles. I did not like the details and sizes of the kit missiles. I have two Meng kits that covers US missiles so I decided to use the AIM-9X from the one kit and the AIM-120C from the other kit. While they were drying after the initial painting I was looking over the fuselage and noticed that the kit does not include the ECS tubes between the tails for the later “E” version. I purchased the Eduard Brassin resin set and grafted these onto the fuselage. Since this is more or less a fictitious scheme I read that the US Navy is considering using a Litening targeting pod on the super hornets. So I used a 3-D printed Lightning pod and added a couple of Eduard resin GBU-54 bombs to the kit. With all the under wing stores built, painted, decaled, and ready for mounting I then started painting the base coat on the aircraft. I used Vallejo light ghost gray for the underside, dark ghost gray for the topside and the tails were painted dark sea blue. The gun plate was painted Vallejo metal color gunmetal. I am now working on the decals. Looks like I should have this build completed soon.


    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-a-18e-super-hornet-from-vfa-37/



















    • Like 1
  18. Week two of the Hornet I cleaned up the fuselage around the intakes. Since I will be using Aires resin Exhaust Nozzles I had to open up and trim out the exhaust area on the fuselage so they can be installed. I then turned my attention to the landing gear. The kit provides a clear nose gear door. There are vents on the bottom of the door. Revell opted to use a decal as the screen and be seen on the inside thru the clear portion. I decided to open up the areas and install some aluminum fine screen to better replicate the door. The nose gear was then assembled and installed.

    The main gear needed some putty for some sink holes. While the putty was curing I added the outer section of the wings and the pylons. The horizontal stabilizers and tails were then installed. The main gear was then painted and installed. The kit main wheels have flat spots to simulate weight on the tires so I will install these after I finish with the landing gear bay details so I can get them in the correct position. Next up is building up the missiles and finishing the finer details of the fuselage so it can be painted.


    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-a-18e-super-hornet-from-vfa-37/




















    • Like 1
  19. This next build is the Revell 1/48 F/A-18E Super Hornet. For this build I will be using the Eduard cockpit detail set, a QuickBoost resin ejection seat, and Ares resin exhaust. The scheme I have chosen to do is VFA-37. The decal set is from Furball Decals for CVW-8 in 2017. The squadron was actually flying F/A-18C’s at the time and transitioned to the F/A-18E in 2018. However since I served with VA-37 (with A-7E’s) in the 1980’s and the squadron designation changed to VFA-37 when they went to the F/A-18’s, I am using the 2017 scheme on this Super Hornet to honor my squadron.

    Starting off with the cockpit I detailed the instrument panel with the Eduard photo etch panels. The cockpit tub was also detailed using the photo etch. I then detailed the resin ejection seat which is a lot more accurate in size than the kit version. With the cockpit completed I turned to the fuselage. One if the negative parts of this kit is Revell marked the copyright stamp under the wing. Using a hobby knife and some sandpaper the marking is gone.  I then prepared the intakes by filling the ejector marks with putty and filling the gap on the intake leading edge. I sprayed the wheel wells in white and then detail painted the cables and hydraulic lines that were molded into the bays. I dry fit the intakes to the fuselage and found the fit is poor. The intakes are going to require some shaping and putty to get them to fit correctly.


    Check out all the photos and details from start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-a-18e-super-hornet-from-vfa-37/




















  20. The MQ-8B Fire Scout is complete. This week I applied the kit decals for HSM-35. The decals were very nice. They went down nicely. The kit does not come with clear parts for the navigation lights. I used some scrap clear styrene and made the four lights. (One on top, one under, and the two side lights).  Finally I worked on the rotors. The tail rotor is all photo etch and fits perfectly into its resin mount. The main rotor is a little tricky. There is a cup at the end to attach it to the hub. This cup is larger than the pin on the hub so there is a lot of play. Getting the rotor blades aligned takes some care. I taped down the ends of the blades using the work surface grid to line them up then positioned the hub in the center. Once I had everything lined up I glued them into place. I finally attached the nose turret and this completed the aircraft.

    The kit itself goes together very well. It would have been nice if they included a jig for the main rotors similar to the jigs you typically see with resin propeller sets for aircraft kits. The only fit issue was the nose to the main body but a little putty and some sanding corrected it. The decal set matched the reference photos except for the turret decals that were not included. If you want to try your hand at a resin kit, this would make a good start. It is not very complicated and it is an interesting subject.

    The final photo is the aircraft on the display shelf sitting next to my 1/48 AH-64 so this should give you an idea on how small this drone is in scale. Thanks for following along.

    Check out all the photos and details from start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mq-8b-fire-scout-drone/















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  21. Next up is an interesting subject. This is the 1/48 Brengun MQ-8B Fire Scout. This is a helicopter drone built by Northrop Grumman and is used by the U.S. Navy. It is typically deployed on FFG’s and LCS ships. The reason I chose this is I am a member of the International Plastic Modeler Society (IPMS). I belong to the Mckinstry Chapter and we have monthly meetings. Typically each month we have a theme. One of the upcoming themes is “Missiles and Drones”. I looked over the available model kits of  drones and thought this would be a little different than the combat drones many are used to seeing.

    This kit is a full resin model. Resin models are cast in resin rather than injection molded styrene kits. There are fewer parts than a typical model and instead of trees the parts are attached to the base of the cast. Many of the smaller parts can be trimmed from the base using a hobby knife. The larger parts require a jeweler’s saw to cut off the base. Once I had all the parts trimmed I started assembly. Resin models do not use typical model glue. They require a CA glue for assembly. I assembled the fuselage, tail boom and nose. The fit was very good except for the bottom edge of the nose which required a little putty filler. The kit come with a sheet of photo etch for some of the smaller details like the antenna blades. I added the photo etch pieces and then sprayed the fuselage with light ghost gray. For the turret under the nose I mixed some Pearl EX pigments in the Tamiya smoke paint. The main lens and the bottom right lens were mixed with gold pigments. I used blue pigments for the bottom and right side lenses. The left side lens I use the green pigments. Once dry I added a final coat of the smoke paint. I noticed that the decal sheet did not include the laser warning labels on the turret. I made my own decal labels and applied them. For the final step on the turret I drilled the holes in the back of the mount so I can add the cables later when I mount it. I am now getting ready to apply the kit decals. The decal set comes with two schemes and I will be doing the HSM-35 “Magicians” scheme.

    Check out all the photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mq-8b-fire-scout-drone/
















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  22. The final scene of the Tropical Tilly R4D-5 has the project completed. With the aircraft completed I then made the display base for the aircraft. Using an 18” diameter plaque I covered it using spackle. I laid out the ski pattern and the tail wheel pattern. Next I added the crew footprints and the sled trail from the cargo door to the edge. After the spackle dried I used the “snow” from the Scene-O-Rama kit and added some Jacquard Pearl Ex powered pigments. I used the Interference Blue color. Mixing this with the snow gave the snow a bluish sparkle effect. I then painted on top of the spackle with Liquitex gloss acrylic gel. This was done in sections so the snow could be sprinkled on the wet gel.

    Once cured, I sprayed a light coating of Vallejo gloss to seal the snow. The aircraft was then positioned and the base and using 10-minute epoxy, it was attached to the base. I then mixed the remainder of the snow I mixed previously into a small cup of the acrylic gel. This mixture was then applied with a toothpick to fill the small gaps between the skis and snow. I then used it to create the plowed snow around the wheels and snow on the wheels. The kit came with a photo etch boarding ladder. This was painted, attached to the aircraft, and then I made a trail of snow up the ladder and just inside the cargo doors.

    This interesting project is now complete. This has been a fun project. The extra work to the resin conversion kit was required because the resin kit is designed for the Monogram/Revell model and there are size differences with the Trumpeter version.  The Trumpeter kit itself was good. The only negative is the interior bulkheads towards the front need to be trimmed down to fit inside the fuselage. Everything else fit very well. I did not use the kit decals so I cannot comment on their quality. The decals included with the conversion kit worked very well. I hope you all have enjoyed this “Hollywood” build.

                                                                               Happy Modeling!


    Check out all the photos and details from start to finish in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-r4d-5-tropical-tilly/


















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  23. Welcome to scene 10 as the climactic ending begins. I installed the skis and added the safety cables that assist in keeping the skis horizontal using EZ-Line. The engine bell housing and propellers were installed as well as the wing tip lights. One of the things not represented in the kit is the windscreen wipers. I took some spare photo etch pieces and made the blade and arms then installed them. I then added all the antenna wires both under the nose and on top using EZ-Line. There are two small “T” shaped antennas under the fuselage near the tail. I trimmed up some scrap photo etch to replicate them.

    Next I used some scrap photo etch and made the cargo door hinges. With all the small details added I thought I had finished the aircraft. While uploading the photos to the computer I realized I forgot to paint on the wing walkways and the anti-glare area on the nose. I painted them as well as the fuel ports on the top of the wings. While the real aircraft has the de-icing panels painted black, none of the screen shots show these painted the typical matte black. I left them unpainted to match the aircraft in the movie. So now the aircraft is complete except the snow weathering which will be added when I mount the aircraft to the base.

    For the final week of work I am building a snow base to display the aircraft. I bought an 18” wooden disk which came with a white washed stain on it as well as a Scene-O-Rama snow kit. I currently am still looking for 1/48 scale dog sled team and arctic crew figures. I have a friend who is looking to design files for the 3-D printer but these files may take a while. We went over some of the scenes from the movie (The Thing from another world – 1951) and he is going to pose them as they are returning to the aircraft with the frozen alien on the sled. When I build the base I will add in the footprints and sled marks so these can be added later. So the current display will be just the aircraft on the snow and assuming the crew is down by the buried flying saucer. Stay tuned for the conclusion of this project.

    Check out all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-r4d-5-tropical-tilly/




















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