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IPMS/USA Executive Board
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Everything posted by DennisTennant

  1. I'm pleased to announce that, effective today, the model building discussion forums of the IPMS/USA are now open to non-IPMS/USA members. No longer closed to the world, we welcome modelers to our forums and hope to share our passion for model building with them. Anyone who provides a valid e-mail address can join and use our modeling forums to share info, ask questions, post photos and learn more about the IPMS/USA. We hope that opening the modeling forums will encourage non-members to join and give IPMS/USA members a chance to share their knowledge, experience and passion for our hobby w
  2. In an effort to move toward growing an online community devoted to model building, I’ll be making some changes soon to emphasize modeling and consolidate or eliminate those forum topics that do not. The most visible change will be the elimination of the “open discussion” forum, effective immediately. Topics that are related to modeling should be posted in the Model Building section. IPMS/USA topics should be posted under the IPMS/USA business section. Topics that aren’t related to model building or IPMS (i.e. pop culture, music, movies, etc...) are better located on other forums. T
  3. I found a cheaper alternative to the Verlinden stuff. I'm near an artist's supply store (i.e. not Michael's) and they have do-it-yourself paint tubes for artists to put bulk mixed acrylic and oil paint into after use. The tubes are just like a small toothpaste tube, but open on the end. All I need to do is cut the cap end off, cut the remaining cylinder up the side and roll out for beautiful sheets of thin tin. Each tube costs about $1.50. Not bad. Check out your area for those art supply stores that cater to the pro artist. Here's an example I found online.
  4. I just checked it out. Very nice!
  5. Everything works fine with Safari and Firefox on my Mac...for what it's worth.
  6. Have you tried Tamiya's orange cap cement? I've got an AFV halftrack and was planning to use the orange cap stuff. Anybody try this cement with AFV plastic?
  7. Understood. If you're wanting accurate color, a calibrated monitor is step one. Most folks don't want to go to the time and/or effort to do this though. Have you tried manually setting a white point or is this possible with your camera?
  8. Is the ICC profile of the image file sRGB or Adobe RGB? This can make a big difference. Using sRGB for posting the photo online and Adobe RGB for printing is the norm.
  9. Howdy, Bob! Welcome to the forums!
  10. Jay, I agree with all that's been said so far. I'd also like to emphasize that using a lower ISO speed (100 or 200 is great) and the smallest aperture you can use (which equates to a higher f/stop....i.e. 11, 16 or 22) are the two most important settings for model photography. The lighting is good and you might want to play around with some white reflectors to bounce light onto your subject (especially to get light under wings, etc.). Small pieces of foamcore board covered with crinkled aluminum foil will do nicely.... Your color balance is good, as is your basic lighting setup.
  11. I swear, it was a "D" when I posted it! Danged Internet musta changed it!
  12. Posting this set of Mustang photos for Mark Fiedler (aka aAzZ09). Photos by Dr. Burton Anes. Enjoy.
  13. Just wanted everyone to know that I'll be systematically purging the forum of members who have lapsed memberships. Note that I'm not deleting anyone's accounts (for ease in getting things back to normal once membership dues are paid), I'm only marking them as expired and downgrading forum access so that anyone with an expired IPMS membership will only be able to view the topics on the board. Those members who have rejoined must contact me to have their forum privileges reinstated since I don't receive an automated notice of their reinstatement. For those of you keeping track of such thin
  14. Chris: I use a couple OTT-LITES for illumination and set my lens to f/8 or f/11 with the camera set to aperture priority. I use a small tripod ($6 or so from Target years ago) to hold things steady and shoot away, careful to avoid camera shake. I can also do the same thing with a couple strobes but most folks don't have two strobes lying around.... Note: this is my setup for when I'm at home. If I'm at a show, I take the path Mike takes...strobe with difuser and off-camera cord for the flash.
  15. I agree, Tim, the Ott-lite is da bomb. I also use it for lighting in-progress shots. It puts off plenty of daylight-balanced light...enough for decent photography.
  16. I occasionally dip my brush in Liquitex Flow-Aid to help keep the paint flowing off my brush and slow the drying time a bit. Works for airbrushing too!
  17. As an armor builder, it's all rubble to me anyway. That said, I like the cast resin buildings...
  18. A perfectly fine photo, David. The reason I like to use a flash off-camera is that I'm able to move the light to provide better depth and accentuate the portions of a model that I want photographed (like the engine in a car or tank, underwing stores, etc. As for a tripod, I don't use my regular full-size version, I have Bogen tabletop model that sits nicely on the table. It allows me to shoot at a shutter speed that will allow me to capture some of the ambient light too -- lightening the background a bit. Basically, find a method that works for you and refine it. For me, I have two
  19. Regardless of the do-dads we use to light our models, the one thing that ultimately makes the biggest difference is the QUALITY of the light hitting the model. Finding what works for you and your camera/flash equipment will take a little experimentation. When going around the display tables, I like to use an inflatable mini-lightbox held off-camera. In dark gyms, I'll even take along a mini tripod (5" high) to set on the table for added stability. Thankfully, experimenting doesn't cost anything with digital and mistakes are easy to delete.
  20. So, the flash atop the camera isn't being used for your studio setup here, right? Kicking in a little daylight balanced flash onto tungsten lights would not be a good thing... Don'tcha just love shooting RAW format? I started doing that almost two years ago and will never look back. For those of you that can only dream of such a set up, you can still do great model photography relatively cheap. I'm glad Moose stepped up and started the ball rolling by showing his mini-studio. Feel free to ask questions....there's no such thing as a stupid question here.
  21. Regardless of your skills, I hope this forum will serve as a source for good info on improving your model photography. Feel free to discuss anything related to producing quality close-ups of your latest project and sharing them on the Internet. I strongly encourage you to post examples of your work here to show what techniques worked (or not) for you.
  22. I'll be adding two new forums to the model building section shortly. One will concern model photography and everything involved with photographing your work (Photoshop use, lighting, composition, technique, etc.) and the other will deal with the unique challenges of building dioramas. I'll be moderating the photography forum and Rusty White, the current moderator of the vendors forum, will be the new Diorama mod. Thanks to all the forum members who wrote with suggestions for new forum topics, I received many great ideas and these are two that were suggested most.
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