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Posts posted by spiralcity

  1. I updated one of the very first open box videos I ever shot. The new video is up-close and personal compared to the original bare bones video I first shot. I hope some will find the video useful.

    Happy modeling folks.


  2. I'm working on part 2 to my video blog of this kit-bash. I added a few WIP photo's of the latest progress. I started to rush trying to reach the finish line but I pulled in the reigns and slowed it down. I didn't want to cut corners after putting in this much effort. Anyway, here it is so far. I'm definitely moving it forward,.













  3. ghodges, thanks for taking a look. This project has been a marathon run, but I will get some major work done on this build now that I pulled the box out and started tinkering. There's nothing quite like revisiting an old project.

  4. Round 2 Models has re-released this kit complete with new decals and original box art work. See a complete review here: http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/f9f-2-panther


    Thanks for posting the link. The Round 2 release doesn't look much different if at all from the original parts. The kit is molded in blue and not white and decals may be different. I guess it's nice to have the option to grab a new kit instead of a used kit, but at 26.00 new? I'm not tempted to buy one.

  5. I just finnished a new open box video on the old AMT Grumman F9F Panther. It's a fairly sparse kit but with a little doctoring you can make the Trumpeter AM parts work. I wouldnt dish out a lot of cash for one of these old AMT kits, they truley are not worth the 25.00 or higher prices I hacve seen on these old kits. If you can grab one for a few bucks then they are worth it.






  6. Great kit of the early Allison engined Mustangs! Was sorry to see Accurate Miniatures close their doors!


    GIL :smiley16:


    Yep, this is really a nice kit. I do these open-box videos for all the eBay browser so they can get a look at some of the older kits before making a purchase. This particular kit is truly a nice find if you can land one at 8.00 on eBay.



    A heads up to all eBay browser's: There is a seller, selling these kits at 8.00 a pop minus decals, but after market decals are easy to come by. I think there may be more than one seller doing this. Simply do a eBay search for Accurate Miniature 1/48 and I'm sure you will come across these sellers.







  8. I just won this kit on eBay for 9.50, so I thought I would shoot a quick open box video. I do these videos mostly for the eBay browser who may want to get a close-up look at some of the kits being sold on the bay. I actually found this older Fujimi kit to be molded rather well and the sprues very clean and free of flashing. This is an older kit and lacks some fundamental detail, but for under 10.00 these older kits can be a bargain. I'm sure this can be made into something very presentable, also these are bargain kits for building with your young ones



  9. Not that I officially represent Vallejo, but as someone who is thoroughly satisfied with it - sorry your having a problem.


    In all honestly I only got 1/2 thru the video you linked - the guy just took way to long to get to the point. I turned it off after the was mentioning the part about putting the agitator in the bottle. If he looked at the documentation - and yes there's a lot of it in small font - it says to NOT shake the bottle but to roll it between you hands. If he doesn't want to add extra "stuff" to the a/b cup, maybe add a little water or flow improver to the bottle. Pretty much the same way how a few YouTubers tell how to make Tamiya paint airbrushable right out of the jar by adding thinner directly to a jar...


    For me I use an a/b with a .3 or .03 needle (whatever its) and set the compressor to about 17-18psi (documentations says to use "less than 20psi").

    I roll the paint bottle to mix it. I then add 3 or 4 drops of flow improver to paint cup, then 2 or 3 drops of paint, then I take the paint brush I'm going to mix it with and dip it in water first and then mix it all together.


    When I finish the cup of paint I put a few drops of water in and spray that, then add more paint if I need to keep going. I will also take that same paint brush and with water rub it over the tip of the needle to remove any paint that has dried on the tip (usually very little).


    If I'm finished, then I do the drops of water, to clean out much of the remaining paint. Then I add squirt a little of the Cleaner - I use Iwata Cleaner - give it a blast then swirl with the brush to get whatever paint is left around the cup, and spray till all the liquid is gone. Then I'm good to go for the next time or the next color. HTH




    To be honest, if it were only me having the problem, I would never even mention the issues. The truth is it's many, many, many people experiencing the same issues. The Vallejo Air line should not be so frustrating to use for anyone. The paint is made to shoot through a gun, having to add retarders and what not is an added headache. I use Tamiya and Gunze issue free nearly 99.9% of the time, and that includes very few issues with tip dry. The video I posted in my link is one of hundreds stating the same issues over and over again. From my personal experience I agree 100% with what is being stated in most of the videos.


    I do like the Vallejo paints, but I tend to use them only for brushing.

  10. I have never had great results spraying Vallejo. Tip dry is endless and makes my experience shooting the stuff unenjoyable. A simple YouTube search will unearth countless videos supporting this claim. I use Vallejo when brushing figures and find it's the best for that application.


    When shooting Vallejo I suggest using their thinner for best results. I also discovered Createx Airbrush cleaner works as a decent thinner for Vallejo, yes, odd but true.

  11. You can take a rivet tool made by Trumpeter, they sell them on eBay at a reasonable price. They come with four blades for variation on rivet size, 1/32 1/48 etc. You can easily apply a very small amount of paint to the size wheel you need and gently roll it along the surface you wish to mark. A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF PAINT. Do not press hard on rivet tool, let it gently roll where you want the pain to stick.

    • Like 1
  12. Nice workshop. :smiley16:


    We recently downsized from an old cottage on an acre of land to a new Townhouse on the lake. The only problem is I lost my work room and I now have a folding table in the corner to do my projects. Upside - no more acre of lawn to maintain, no snow removal, no more dragging trash to the street for pick-up. Trade offs are a bitch.

    • Like 1
  13. I have always been a huge fan of the Wildcat. When talking about holding the line with what little we had early on this bird proved to be more than a match in the pacific. I read a great book called Fighter Squadron At Guadalcanal by Brand Max many years ago and have admired this plane ever since.


    Nice job on the birds.

  14. I actually like Vallejo for brush painting but never have great success airbrushing with the stuff. Tip dry is horrendous, you will want to use their special thinner for best results. I usually shoot Tamiya with my guns or Gunze and find the results much better. There are plenty of YouTube videos that address the problems of shooting Vallejo. I would suggest watching a few before deciding on the product.


    Here's a link to a YouTube video I think you should watch. Everything this guy says about Vallejo issues I agree 100%. but his solution? I'm not sure his trick is the complete answer.



  15. I still use my Badger 200 gravity feed single action gun all the time. It's extremely easy to use. I just adjust the pressure I need and shoot. There a needle adjustment on the end also. It's great for base coats and line shading, actually I can do most anything I do with my double action guns. I have owned this gun for many years and it remains a favorite of mine. Just a simple little gun. I have added a quick release to this gun simply because of the use it gets.





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