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TheKeeper

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Posts posted by TheKeeper

  1. I couldn't find any pics either although the art and decals all seem to be in agreement on a rather standard finish with yellow arched letters. Rocky's site has a lot of historical info:

     

    http://hellswenchoperationtidalwave.blogspot.de/#!

     

    And this British site confirms the lack of photo:

     

    http://www.americanairmuseum.com/aircraft/7501

     

    Wish I had more for ya but this may be one of those 'oral history only' incidences.

    hth

  2. Minor detail; Otaki came out with this line of 1/48 fighters in (like you said) 1972, went out of biz around eighty-nine when Arii bought the company assets.

     

    Most modelers viewed these kits as a blessing even though some of the detail was fiction. As you've demonstrated, with skill and some upgrades they turn out quite nice. They make great palettes for the leftover decals from newer releases.

     

    Really love your paint job and detail work!

     

    Cheers

    K

     

    • Like 1
  3. Ah, there's no ammonia in Microsol; it's some obscure alchohol which I can't remember the name of at the moment but it probably would react with Future. A follow up top coat with Future usually eradicates the stain.

     

    Here's the MSDS for Microsol:

    http://www.decalconnection.com/msds_microsol.pdf

    No ammonia

     

    Microset is merely acetic acid.

    Most other manufacturers utilize these formulae.

     

    If you're having trouble with decals shattering when they hit the water then they have been exposed to humidity and heat and the ink is fractured. You can coat it with Microscale Decal Film which usually saves most.

     

    HTH

     

     

     

  4. Nicely done Joe! Incredible the amount of use this particular A/C experienced. I bought this kit last year and hope to get to it soon but I think I'm going to find a scheme using lozenge decals. Were there any points to watch out for during assembly?

    Tanks,

     

  5. Yeah, the Revell P-38 is a good kit, even includes an engine or two. I probably have an extra one here at the Crapatorium along with the later photo recon edition. The Dragon kit is a later different molding but it's a nightfighter. Comes in other varieties as well. Might have a MONOgram F7F as well.

     

    Check this site:

     

    http://www.scalemates.com/search-solr.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=grumman+f7f&qs=Search

     

    I've plugged you in with the F7F, you can punch in any aircraft and see the manufacturers, scales, editions, etc. Great site!

    hth!

  6. Isopropyl alchohol is the exact thinner Tamiya used for their acrylic line and should remove the paint if it's not fully cured. But like Pete said, if it's the synthetic laquer you're going have to turn it up a notch. You might be able to dispose of brake fluid at a local gas station. You might also want to try the purple degreaser available at auto supply stores. A toothbrush helps with the nooks n crannies.

    hth

  7. Great to hear from you Paul. I started the '28 Lincoln when I was kid but got a bunch of runs in the yellow and never finished it. I've collected a few editions over the years, including some restorable '32 Chevys, sadly the doors are missing from the truck. You obviously did proper research on the color schemes, I'll bet the beltlines on the Lincolns were arduous. I've avoided the MPC re-issues which are devoid of the Gangbuster parts and got the AMT editions circa '86 along with some originals. Now that I've seen your awesome display I'm ready to start. Any suggestions?

    Fine job, hope to see them again!

  8. I usually clean with Plastic Prep or alchohol (not a good idea if you've got an acrylic base coat.) The trick is to use coffee filters! They're lint free and don't shed so they're an excellent media for applying fluids.

     

    Any type of anti static device is a good investment.

    hth

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