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Posts posted by mustang1989

  1. On 11/12/2016 at 11:34 AM, ghodges said:

    Good to see it again. I get a much bigger kick out builds that "shine up" an older kit, as opposed to those that simply take advantage of the state of the art we have these days. I also find myself building more often for nostalgia purposes the older I get. Thanks for reposting!


    GIL :smiley16:

    Took almost 3-1/2 years to get back to you Gil but hey.....I made it. Thanks.

  2. It has been forever and a day since I've last posted on here. I apologize for the long absence. I have since finished this build but wanted to post the completion of it here. I will be posting some more as there are some good folks here.

    I started out with these two kits and a Pro Street vision between the two.


    I've always had an eye for Revell's "Street Demons" series back in 1983 but I don't really care for the gasser look that a few of 'em had...……..this one in particular. In staying with the theme I set out to change things up a little bit in the way of a slight color change up, stance, powertrain and interior.

    Powertrain : Came from the Revell 1968 Hemi Dart kit with upgrades to the ignition, fuel and throttle linkage systems.

    Wheels: From Future Attractions. I had my machine shop at work cut the rear wheels in half due to the fact that they were just too dang wide to use with the tires I had.

    Paint: Testors Icy Blue Lacquer, Testors White Lightning Lacquer and Testors Wet Look Clear all decanted and shot through an airbrush.

    Decals: Speedway Decals











    Interior Shots:



    Additional engine shots:



  3. Just to let everybody know.............I am still working on this one. I've got the chassis mostly finished up except for the brake rotors up front and the exhaust system. I've also gotta tweak the toe in setting on the front end to keep the excessive toe in look from happening on the front wheels when fully assembled.
    I narrowed the rear axle to get the wider tires underneath the rear fenders and lowered the front suspension a good 1/8" to make it an even drop all the way around.


    I did acquire the only PE piece made for this kit which will help the front end out ALOT. Sorry Revell..................that's good for OOB but it aint gonna cut it on this build.


    I'm currently working on the engine which will take me a bit because of the detail I want to throw at this beast. I'll be robbing a lot of the parts except for the base engine block and transmission (which I'll leave OOB) from the Revell Hemi Dart kit. I was going to post some engine progress pics as well but the Spaz Stix clear doesn't work well with Model Master acrylic paint. Turned it white in the crevices so I'll be shooting another thin coat of orange on the block and re-coating the clear with Tamiya clear like I usually do the next time around. Learning curve complete.   Wink

  4. 19 minutes ago, Mark Deliduka said:

    Yeah, I'd heard about that. I did build a 1/72 scale BMW with sidecar. It also had a fairly high parts count; around 20-25. Can't say the spokes were scale, but they do look good; and the steering column turns!


    I'm almost finished with the Vauxhall ambulance that has the same chassis and front end as this car.

    That's the one that you're building over at SPAM right? A 1/72nd scale BMW R75????? Wow!!

  5. 4 minutes ago, Mark Deliduka said:

    I agree. It was surprising to me as well. What bothered me more was that so many parts were so delicate that they broke apart when I tried removing them from the sprue. A lot of those parts could have benefited from being molded onto other, stronger parts. Roden is famous for that kind of thing. Still, they do build into lovely models and Roden does do models that most other companies don't go near. Can anyone say German WWII Buses? LOL!😉

    LOL!!! You should try building Tamiya's 1/48 scale BMW R75 w/ sidecar model. Man that thing looks solid and the wheel spokes are more to scale on it. Beautiful kit. I built the Bandai version of the R75 before the Tamiya version came out and it's nowhere NEAR the quality of the Tamiya kit.

  6. 30 minutes ago, Mark Deliduka said:

    Thanks Joe! The parts count was somewhere in the neighborhood of 25-30 parts. I had fun with this, except when I was breaking delicate parts! LOL!

    I hear ya. That's a pretty big parts count for such a small scale. I built a 1/72 scale Willy's Jeep when I was a kid and couldn't believe the parts count on that thing. I can't remember exactly how many parts there were but it was crazy.

  7. I needed something that's going to go a little smooth for me so I've decided to take on another "Demon II" project. I'll be taking the original gasser idea and slamming it to the ground for more of a Pro Street look. Paint scheme will be the original Street Demons theme with the flames on the sides.

    Here we go:







  8. A couple of years ago I decided to re-visit an old childhood fave of mine. I was drawn to the Street Demons series and even more drawn to the 56 Ford F-100 offering in that series. I ended up doing a total revamp of that kit when I did sit down to have a "second go" at that kit. Little did I remember just how awful that kit really was (or was it that it didn't really matter at such a young age----I just built it) but I did end up finding out that kit really had its challenges. After completing the revamp kit in 2015 I found out that I'd learned a valuable lesson in my adult modeling in regards to just how far I'm going to go with detailing a kit and more importantly how much money NOT to throw at a build. I detailed it to the point that I dread handling it every time I pick it up to take it to shows or if I have to do a photo shoot like you'll see below.
    To flash forward to around August of last year, I'd been wanting to build another 56 for a while and then along came the Foose 56 F-100. Man............the body was totally tweaked and the appearance of this truck was so much sleeker than the original F-100's were. So with that I purchased a Revell Foose FD-100 kit.




    My imagination went into overdrive at the possibilities. I had Thomas over at Speedway Decals go to work on fabricating the slides I'd need to pull this, more refined Demon version, off.
    I kept the power and drive train and made some modifications to the rear suspension to narrow the rear end and lower it even more while retaining all of the original four link suspension parts. I had to cut the bed and make fender wells for the much wider tires that were to go in the rear. I tried to detail the engine up as much as I could using all of the OOB parts for the engine. I didn't want to have to modify this and modify that to retain the original look of the Roush engine (which is one of the best engines I've built modeling wise-save for that stupid hole in the oil pan for the metal axle to pass throughfacepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif ) I turned to Weld Draglites once again for this this newer version. The front wheels are from a Revell Pro Stock Camaro kit and the rears are from Competition Resins with a coat of Molotow Chrome shot through an airbrush and cleared with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. After that a coat of Tamiya Smoke was airbrushed onto all wheels to tone down the "toy chrome" look.
    Paint is Testors Semi Gloss Black as a base color with Testors "Wet Look" clear bringin' up the shine. Both were decanted and shot through an airbrush to get the smoothest results possible. Flame masks from Anarchy Models and Alclad II Polished Aluminum ensured a nice smooth flame job. The "Foose" lettering was removed from the tail gate and F-O-R-D lettering was applied in its place.
    If I had any words of caution about this kit I would say that the interior tub needs to be installed BEFORE setting the cab down onto the truck frame and to make sure to test fit the hood AFTER installing the radiator core support brace. I test fitted it before installing it and it fit perfect ...........only to find out that it didn't afterwards. Some gentle sanding cleaned it up enough to fit in the end. Also............make SURE then engine is all the way down in the mount slots provided. I had to risk and "all or nothing" attempt at forcing it straight and luckily I got by with it. facepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif Overall I was very happy with this kit as it's a solid build that takes to handling well and it just felt like everything "clicked" together unlike a lot of the older kits that I tend to build...........especially with any mods.

    With all that being said, here's the finishing shots:


























  9. On ‎6‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 11:55 PM, 1320Wayne said:

    The decals came from Slotfabrik, out of Germany. They are expensive and for this particular build, very difficult to work with. This was probably the most laborious decaling job that I've ever had to do, and I've done some insane full wrap decals before. 

    Your efforts most assuredly paid off Wayne! Spectacular model building and beautiful car.

  10. On ‎10‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 11:44 AM, RGronovius said:

    The head light blisters are chrome, but the headlights themselves are clear plastic on the same sprue as the windshield. There is also a duplicate clear sprue with a slight yellow tint to them that includes the headlights and windshield. The two tail light lenses are red clear but the fixtures they go into are chrome. Tail lights are optional.


    Edit, the next time I build a car kit, it will be a more modern kit, not a nostalgia build. This car kit is primitive, but okay for the $8 I paid.

    Any progress on this one Rob?

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