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Everything posted by mustang1989

  1. Thought I'd bump this one back up to the top for some of the newer viewers. This is my favorite all time auto build largely because it's one of my surviving original builds that I "upgraded".
  2. LOL! 'fraid not Mark. It aint all that hard to get finishes like this once you get a method that works for you out bud. After my Challenger build I spent the better part of 3 years chasing that same finish that I got by accident.
  3. You've got your hands full with filling those gaps in but it's still doable if you take your time. I usually use super glue for filler but only let it cure out for one day before attempting to sand or sculpt it with sanding sticks, files or the x-acto. Looking forward to this build.
  4. I haven't built an F-16 since I was a kid but I've always wanted a crack at a 1/48 scale kit of it. I'll be looking for your thread.
  5. That is a very well detailed build Stuart. Great work!!! Tamiya decals have a reputation for being way too thick and hard to work with so I can see where they were a source of frustration on this one. Aftermarket decals such as EagleCals or Peddinghaus are alot thinner and alot easier to work with.
  6. Oh HELL yeah!! I'll be watchin' this one!!!
  7. I've been wanting to build this car for the last few years and figured that now might be a good time to break it out. There's not much in the way of AM for this kit so it was the perfect one to do an OOB build on. The only things that were added was an "AC Delco" decal on the oil filter, a Hot Rod Magazine in the passengers from seat with a picture of an older T/A on the cover and I robbed the dual outlet exhaust pipes from the Revell 2000 Camaro SS kit. Just couldn't build this car with the single outlet exhaust system like it came from the factory with. The kit wasn't too bad but there were several fit issues with it starting with the chassis to body assembly. For some reason the glue adhesion didn't set up right at the rear of the car resulting in a slight twist. I made some bracing that went from the body down to the chassis and glued that in place to suck the chassis up on the side that got the lower part of the twist. Flash and mold lines were TERRIBLE on this thing. I spent ALOT of time getting rid of those and still didn't get them all. The front and rear facias fit great during the test fit and didn't want to cooperate at all during the assembly process. I got them pretty close however, disassembling the whole friggin' car to straighten everything out. Once I got the chassis sucked up in the back on the drivers side to where it was supposed to be I noticed that now there was a gap between the engine throttle body and the molded in intake duct on the body. I ended up cutting a piece of plastic and carving it to fit the gap there. The only other things that I did with this car that needed to be done was that I lowered it about a scale inch or so all the way around to give it a more aggressive stance and blacked out the tail light panel for a totally bad ass look out back. I'll tell you one thing that I did NOT like though......there are no "Trans Am" emblems on the doors. Hopefully I can find some red Trans Am decals for those.
  8. I hope so. I really get alot out of that magazine
  9. Right???!!!! I was really done with them when they started "selling" the flyer as a magazine. That.....pretty much cut my ties with them when they did that because I did still buy from them here and there before they tried that. I liked the flyer but I wasn't going to pay for it.
  10. I haven't ordered from these guys since about 5 years ago. Service sucked then and I never gave them any more chances. I'm not surprised at all that this happened.
  11. Thank you for the kudos Bob. Lemme tell ya man......this thing was a bass........tard to build. Everything goes really smoothly with these kits ....until you install the nose assy and have to deal with the seams.
  12. I started this kit over three years ago and ran into a lot of problematic areas with this kit. To say that this kit has now moved into #1 on my most difficult/ frustrating and sometimes angering build would simply be an understatement. It was so bad that I stepped away from aircraft building altogether for those 3 years. Some of it I brought on myself by making things more difficult than they needed to be and other areas were just plain ridiculous the way Hasegawa put this thing together. This kit is touted to be one of the best scale model representations of this iconic plane and on that point I'll agree once it's built. Getting there was the difficult part for me. Enough of that banter though. After 3 long years my Arado is finally completed: In progress cockpit photo: http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t469/bf109g430mm/Hasegawa%20Arado%20234%20Blitz/004_zps4qldc5p7.jpg Engine shot:
  13. I double DOG dare you to put a Snoopy by this thing when it's all said and done!!! Lookin' good Carlos!!
  14. First off this build is looking spectacular so far Carlos. As a side note for plumbing , I have found different sizes of solder to be very helpful in running fuel supply or other types of fluid lines (or throttle linkage for that matter. lol) Secondly....Hans von Hammer!! WOW!!! Now there's a name I haven't seen in YEARS!!!
  15. LOL!! I think I read that a few years back as well. Hey....if it works ....it works.
  16. Thanks fellas!! Sorry for the lack of response and lack of participation around here. I've actually finished this one and will post up photos pretty soon.
  17. No problem Bob. I've seen that '57 Chevy kit and you're right , it is a monster.
  18. The pastel does the trick on two levels. 1.) It gives it just a tad bit more realistic black shade and 2.) gives the tire a true rubber look. The MM Flat Clear cut with ISO gives it a really flat appearance but you really have to watch not getting it on there thick. Just enough to where you can see the clear go on and dry almost immediately. I use a reflection off of a light source to literally watch it go on the tire.
  19. Thanks Bob! I just applied the decals onto the shiny surface of the tire sidewall, then shot a super light coat (you've GOT to make sure it's VERY thin) of MM acrylic flat clear coat cut with ISO alcohol over the sidewalls to dull the sidewalls out some and blend the decal into the tire causing the clear film of the decal to disappear. After that I dry brushed some ground up black pastel onto the sidewalls of the tire and decals to further flatten everything out as well as add that dingy black coat over the lettering.
  20. A 1/12 scale Vette is a pretty dang big model and there are certainly alot of AM accessories available for the larger scales. Actually there are decals for tire lettering available. You can check out my Maverick and General Lee Charger builds here and both of those have decals for lettering. If I'm not mistaken I get those from Slixx.
  21. Hey Mark. If you're talking about the raised grainy texture, that was molded into the manifold. The cast iron "look" was achieved by black basing the manifolds and then spraying a very light coat of aluminum Alclad over the black. Just enough to where there is light coverage. Too much and it won't come out right and it'll look "toy like".
  22. Thanks Rusty. It took me a while to get my method down. Thanks Carlos!!!
  23. Glad to hear that you took the challenge of improvement. It was that way for me in 2014 when I turned out my first auto build in decades. I wanted to master the gloss finish and by pure dumb luck I did it on the first try. No wet sanding, no polishing....nuthin'. It would be three more years of chasing that finish that I would be able to duplicate it again however. I found out that wet sanding in addition to polishing is what achieves consistent results. If you need any help along the way I'll be more than happy to assist.
  24. Thanks Dave and Mark!! I appreciate the comments fellas. Mark: Yes sir-both were made from scratch. The wires were made from wire from Lex's Scale Modeling. I cut small diameter wire and used the insulation as the spark plug wire boots. Brake lines were formed and made from solder. The engine:
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