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Bubbajoe

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Posts posted by Bubbajoe

  1. far from an expert.. but i asked the same question on a model car forum...the wire i used to make spark plug cable was to large and not the correct scale. i used telephone wire (26 gauge).... it should be 31 or 32 gauge... closest i found was 30 gauge in red and blue at radio shack. 50' for 5.49 works perfect

     

     

    Side note.... i looked online to find a source and radio shack showed it carried 30 gauge...went into a local store and asked for it and was told they did not carry that small of a gauge...i took a walk around the store and found 3 spools of the 30 gauge on a wall by the wire and soldering equipment....went up front to check out and told the clerk he did indeed have it and it was in stock. he just looked at me and rang it up..no wonder they are going out of business.

  2. thanks gary, it is either one or two things...i may be a little to far form the model while i spray the paint ,causing the paint to dry while in the air. or the temp is too cold. i'm spraying in the barn but it is still cold and the thinner pieces are cooling faster than the thicker dash and seats. i sanded off the bad paint and will give it another go. thanks for the input

  3. On the bench Revells 62 chevy impala. First build of the new year and its kicking me in the teeth. each step forward i take, i seem to take 2 backwards. first it was the engine block. primed with krlon gray then model master chevy engine red. for some reason the red paint did not cover very well ,after 2 coats it started to fill in the detail of the engine so i stripped it and started over. 2nd attempt same as the first. the paint pooled in the corners and looked messy. back into the the oven cleaner bath it went. i ended up painting it red. next it was the BMF... let me tell you , i have a love hate relationship with this stuff. for each piece i applied right there were at least 2 that i either tore while applying or burnishing. after getting one piece on and looking decent i stopped and sealed it with clear gloss just to be on the safe side and help prevent it from tearing. which i did on more than one accession while applying the next piece. next it was the interior. again primed ,let dry for a few days then color. this time the paint spidered , but only on the side panels. the seats and the dash were fine, all primed and painted at the same time. no idea why??? into the oven cleaner with them for a do over as well. here are a few photos of it so far.

     

     

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  4. 28!!!!! outstanding...i think you produce a very fine model and fine nothing you post to be" braggadocio, one-upmanship and ego stroking/fishing for compliments" i belong to many modeling forums and most have year end in review thread . i see nothing wrong with it and enjoy seeing what other modelers have finished in the course of a year... if i had kept any of the photos of my builds or had a better camera for that matter and could take a decent photo,i'd have join in . nice work mark ..keep it up

  5. thanks Bill, i picked up the shark at A.C moore craft store. as soon as i saw it i knew it was going to be part of the model. wish i could point a finger at why the paint failed the way it did. Anything, paint, weather ,prep work ,anything that would let me know what i did wrong so i don't repeat it in the future. just happy the second time around worked out.

  6. thank you... i came close to tossing this out, i ran into a real problem with the paint. i had 2 coats of white primer (krylon) sanded in-between coats. 2 mist coats of yellow again sanding in between each coat. i let each coat dry for a couple of days..as soon as i applied the third coat of yellow ,the paint spidered and crinkled over most of sub. no idea why...tried sanding after it dried but the paint was ruined .had to strip the sub in oven cleaner and start over.repeated the same paint process ,in the same way, this time no problem with paint. i was so afraid of clear coating that i used future and brushed it on for a top coat.

    any ideas as to why this happened please let me know...i'm baffeled

  7. this is my take on the Sea Quest stinger sub. its suppose to be a very dark blue almost black in color but i just saw it as wanting to be yellow. I detailed the cockpit using BMF bits and pieces from a old mac and colored tape used for ladies fingernails. the kit came with 2 headlights that were suppose to be attached inside the canopy ,but it covered to much of the detailing of the cockpit so i left them out. instead i made a set to attach on top from extra sprue and a couple of pens. also fabricated the antenea using a tip from an old paintbrush and a fishing leader. i picked this kit up at a flea market for $3.who could pass it up for that price. the shark was not part of the kit nor the plants.

     

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  8. that's plastic!!!!unbelievable !!! i made a fence using wood craft sticks and washed it with vinegar and steel wool solution and was wondering what wash you used on yours..its plastic!!! wow very well done i would have put money down on it being wood

  9. Joe, I love the build too! You've obviously put a lot of effort into it.

     

    I don't know if it's the photos or not, but from my point of view, the contrast between the rusted spots on the car and the original paint is a little bit too stark. I've been asking myself why for a good hour before typing this and think it's that the rusted areas are perhaps too orange/red. Bear in mind, I've seen rusted out school buses, trucks, and cars in NE Michigan forests, so I have a preconception of how they look.

     

    Please don't get me wrong. The overall effect is very well executed (I'm guessing primarily the salt technique?). If the rust color was toned down, a bit more varied, or perhaps more brown, the effect would be absolutely dead-on!

     

    Once again, an execellent build!

     

    Robert.your absolutely right, after washing the salt off i started applying pigments and washes but i felt it was a bit mono tone in color and lacked depth. since posting the photos i picked up a few more shades of paint and washes and plan on going back and working on it . thank you very much for the feedback . i'm a new modeler and receiving an honest critique is very much appreciated .thank you again for the help[

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