p51rick
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Posts posted by p51rick
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I'm in desperate need of a copy of the instructions for MPM's FW 189 in 1/48 scale. Somewhere along the line I've misplaced mine; I'm planning on putting this thing in Out of Box at Nats this summer but without the instructions that plan is out the window. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Happy Landings,
Rick
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I am in need of the instructions for MPM's Focke Wulf FW 189 kit in 1/48 scale. Somewhere along the line I seem to have misplaced mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Happy Landings,
Rick
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Where exactly are you from in central Pa.?
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Charles, I've read over the all of the comments and can't really add to the answers to question #1. One solution I didn't see mentioned for the question on the canopy is Bare Metal Foil, which is the solution I've used for 20 years. Cut a piece large enough for the clear area, then burnish it down and use something like a toothpick to get it in the edge between the frame and the clear area. After using an x-acto to cut along this line, reburnish the edge you just cut to reaffirm the seal. When the paint has dried, use the x-acto to score along the panel line to break the paint and seperate the BMF from the canopy frame. Add a drop of Goo Gone at a corner and then use the tip of the knife to gently lift the BMF from the canopy. After you are finished, use Goo Gone again to make sure there is no residue remaining on the clear parts, then simply wipe them with a little water on a Q-tip. It probably sounds more complicated than it really is. I've used this method almost exclusively for 20 years and appreciate how the BMF conforms to all of the compound curves which can be present in many canopies. Also, you can piece in another section of BMF very easily without having to start all over again. Oh, I almost forgot, dip the canopy in Future floor polish (or whatever it is called now) to achieve a super clear canopy before you do anything else. Let it dry on a piece of wax paper, then turn it upside down after about 4 hours to let the bottom finish drying. I hope this helps in some small way.
Happy Landings,
Rick
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Once again, thanx to all for their suggestions. The jury is still out on what I'll decide as it won't make it to a contest until August..
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Looks beautiful! I love the markings too. Were you at Nats last year?
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Wow, Gil! Absolutely Awesome :D I just sold mine last year; I couldn't convince myself to begin something that probably wouldn't ever turn out the way I wanted it to. You did yourself proud on this one. Congrats
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I appreciate all of the responses and suggestions. I always dip my canopies in Future a few days before attachment; this trick has never failed me when it comes to protection from CA fumes. I can dislodge some of it by tapping on the canopy but the rest is still there. I'm still trying to figure out a way to create a static charge to try to move the junk little by little until it is not on the glass. Perhaps I need to be proactive and try Pete's anti-static wash before attachment.
Happy Landings,
Rick
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Perhaps some of you have been here before. After uncounted hours of eye straining labor you get that project through the paint shop only to find that when the mask is
pulled off of the canopy, there is a haze at places on the inside. It's not the end of the world if the canopy can be removed and cleaned, and then reinstalled. My problem
is that this is not possible on my current build (High Planes "Precious Metal") where the teardrop canopy has been blended into the airframe with 5-minute epoxy and jet
glue. After removing the Bare Metal Foil I'm left with what can best be desribed as patches of white inside the canopy which resembles fog. I think it is a nearly
microscopic dust which statically attached to the canopy either when the BMF is being burnished onto the canopy or when it is removed.
So the question is, how to get rid of it when I absolutely cannot remove the canopy? Is there a way to get rid of the static charge which is holding the dust there?
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Mike and Dave, I appreciate the feedback. Since mineral spirits are easily obtained locally, I'll try that first.
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HELP!!!
I'm having all sorts of trouble with this one stupid color. Most of us can agree that Model Master is not the correct shade of green. While I love (or should I say "loved")White Ensign paints; I just found out that they are now defunct. So I ordered several tins of Humbrol 242 last week and was very disappointed with the results. The paint was obviously old in all of the tins, but after much shaking and the use of a battery-powered stirring thingy I got it to where I thought it was usable. However, after cutting it with laquer thinner to a good mixture, the results were a very grainy finish. Then to add to my misery, it wouldn't dry properly. So I decided to use Polly Scale's RLM 71. While the color looks good to my eye, it is gumming-up on the tip of the airbrush needle (I use a Paasche VL). This morning I had to continuously make adjustments to the needle setting in order to obtain anything close to a fine line as the residue built up. So that got me thinking that there must be a better way.
Which brings me to this: does anyone out there have an enamel mixture for RLM 71?
Thanx for your help,
Rick Troutman
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I'm sure this is coming a bit late but here is what I've discovered. Based upon Bert Kinzey's research in Detail & Scale's P-47 Thunderbolt (Vol. 54), the cockpit color for Republic-built P-47s was Bronze Green. Humbrol 75 is a great match. Curtiss-built T-bolts were painted Chromate Green. All of the rest of the interior surfaces were painted Chromate Yellow. I believe the inside of the cowl area was grey but at the moment I don't have the exact color reference handy. I hope this helps if it is not too late!
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Dave,
I have a copy of the book "Deadly Duo: The B-25 and B-26 in WW-II" which has some drawings in it including a 2-page spread in profile. Shoot me an email @ p51rick@yahoo.com, and I can scan them in and send it to you if you are interested. There are a bunch of lines and numbers which really don't mean anything to me but it just might be of help to you.
Happy Landings,
Rick
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I just joined and found your question. According to Revi's "Japanese WWII Aircraft in Colour (Volume 1)", Soryu aircraft were marked with a single medium blue band. The band doesn't wrap completely around the fuselage but rather ends at a panel line. I hope this helps if you haven't already figured it out.
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I don't photograph my models typically but there are pics of some of them in the 2014 Nationals Awards Banquet Slide Show folder, numbers 107-A-1 (FW 190A-2), 107-B-2 (C.205), 113-A-3 (A-20G), 123-3 (PBY-5A), 128-A-1 (YP-59A), 152-3 (Fl 282B-0), 158-2 (Bf 108B-1), 174-1 (F4F-3), 187-B-2 (SB2C-4E), 189-3 (Me 163B-1), and 191-3 (Whirlwind Mk.I). How bout some shots of yours.....
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I build 1/48 scale aircraft exclusively. While I prefer WWII era planes, I occasionally will dabble in subjects from 1930-1970ish. Like so many of us, I grew up with a father who was a modeler and passed the hobby to me. Although Dad was into trains and cars, he nurtured my budding interest in World War II aircraft with a trip to Wright-Patterson AFB during the summer before 8th grade. That trip was the catalyst for what became a lifelong passion. I have been building aircraft for roughly 35 years now and regularly attend contests throughout Virginia and North Carolina. While I have had the privilege to pursue other hobbies and interests over the years, the one continuous pastime which has eclipsed them all is scale modeling.
Born and raised in Sunbury, PA, I have lived for varying lengths of time in Dover, DE (1988-92), Biloxi, MS (1992), and Goldsboro, NC (1992-1993) courtesy of Uncle Sam and the USAF.
Help!!
in Aircraft
Posted · Edited by p51rick
I'm in desperate need of a copy of the instructions for MPM's 1/48 FW 189 Uhu (the recon version, not the trainer version). Please contact me if you are able to help.